oliver 1850

flywheel002.jpg

flywheel001.jpg


By the way, after you reach 10 posts, it suits me just fine to keep the general information out here in open forum rather than PM's. Might save me from repeating it someday.
 
9724VF350 said:
the only 1850 part that is the same is the clutch housing that bolts on the front of your 2/3 speed. Flywheel, flywheel housing, pto hub, is all different than what you need.

I've got a 2 disc 13" in my 1655, I used a 2-180 clutch just because I wanted a "quiet" 2 disc. I had to make a thin flywheel, modify the pto hub, machine the clutch housing, do a little work to the pressure plate, use a longer 1550 pto shaft, and use a longer 3 speed imput shaft and then shorten it some. It's 15 pounds of chit in a 5 pound box.

If you don't mind the typical 2 disc rattle, it's a piece of cake to make everything fit.

Looking at your 16 bell housing would make it look tight, the housings normally used in a repower are alot bigger.

Do you have a 2 or 3 speed? Going to more than one disc means you'll have to change the imput to the 1 3/4-27 imput to get longer splines, and you'll have to change it to get a 14" single disc.

If you are pulling a 14" would be minimum. Tractor clutches are a whole different world than truck clutches.
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Well that's good to know.

So are you saying the 16 bell housing can't be used in order to upgrade to a 14" clutch? Or just that it's smaller?

Also all these parts and machining for the bigger 14" or dual clutch, as well as what is needed for the PTO to work; do you sell or have any references on where I can get the parts. I know you have some, just wondering if it would be everything to do this.

What are you thoughts on the 2 speed holding up? The plan for the tractor (right now) is probably getting 250-350 hp out of it, using it for a sled pull here and there (just local stuff) and also being able to farm with it.

Also thanks for the pictures, I see what you are saying.
 
Awesome info...I don't see myself modifying one to fit a Cummins anytime soon, as most of our Olly's are more oddball tractors like tricycles, or 4wd's or stuff like that, but awesome info nonetheless!

Chris
 
12" is the limit for a 16 bell housing. To go any bigger than that you need to go to the cummins housings.

The 14" is a direct bolt together no machining required deal. You'll just need to swap the imput shaft, front cover and throwout hub on your 2 speed, pull the side cover, drop the countershaft, pull the imput out the front.

I sell this stuff everyday, have it all on the shelf. I've sold parts for 60-70 Oliver/White conversions.

The 2 speed will hold up just fine, as long as you don't shift it under a heavy load. If you're pulling, it's best to use direct.
 
I'm confused on what we are calling the bell housing. What I have now is the 2 speed, adapter from an 1850 to SAE, and and SAE bell.

Will this work?

Oliverclutch017-1.jpg

Oliverclutch022.jpg
 
Those are the housings you need, at one point you asked if a 16 housing could be used for a 14" clutch, I thought you were trying to use the original 1650 bell housing. The housings in your pictures are what you want, all the 14" parts will fit right in them.
 
Good deal, yes I forgot that I do have the 1850 adapter already.

Now if I go with a single 14" clutch, will the stock PTO shaft for the 1650 work? I just need the bigger input shaft and pilot bearing?
 
Not sure what you are doing for mounts, but we make up these handy little kits to save some time and fustration
Mounts.jpg


Don't have a picture of a finished rear mount, but here's a front.
1850009.jpg


I usually machine 5/16" off the flat pad on each side of the flywheel housing, (make the overall width narrower) just to make a nicer fit for the bolts going into the top of the frame.
 
Signature600 said:
Awesome info...I don't see myself modifying one to fit a Cummins anytime soon, as most of our Olly's are more oddball tractors like tricycles, or 4wd's or stuff like that, but awesome info nonetheless!

Chris
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Well if you ever get the bug to do one, a 1855 or 1955 is probably the easiest to do and makes for a real handy sized tractor.

I'm sure you've been around those hydraulic systems enough to know that they can be great and they can be awful.

A 300 hp 1650-55 that you can farm with is always alot of fun though too.;)
 
9724VF350 said:
Usually 120-160 horse, 185 isn't unusual, assuming you guys checked the pressure. Some guys can break a anvil with a glass hammer though. Most guys can understand not to actually use it as a 160 or 185 horse tractor, but the extra powers is nice to have handy.
Nothing really against the perkins, they should have used a injection pump that wasn't outdated in the 40's though. Putting a Roosa and a Holset on one makes it a completely different tractor. Repowering with a perkins makes a frame swap abolutley necessary. Biggest thing is parts availibity. Usually a guy wants to use a danged combine engine, and all the parts to make it fit a tractor nice is a chore to round up. Dodge truck engine is similar, but the necessary parts to make it fit nice is alot better.

And I'm not a huge fan of supporting Caterpillar.
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Hi All,

I'm new to the site and have been looking for guys that have powered up some old Olivers. I have an 1850 myself that's been in the family farm for many years. I'm looking to do some mods to start turning it in to a pull tractor but yet still reliable to do some field work. I'm curious about adding a larger/better fuel pump. What info is there on that, I see you mention a Roosa?

Thanks
 
I assume it has the perkins instead of the 310 gas engine since you mentioned the injector pump. Are you wanting to keep the perkins or do a cummins swap?
 
tcs said:
Hi All,

I'm new to the site and have been looking for guys that have powered up some old Olivers. I have an 1850 myself that's been in the family farm for many years. I'm looking to do some mods to start turning it in to a pull tractor but yet still reliable to do some field work. I'm curious about adding a larger/better fuel pump. What info is there on that, I see you mention a Roosa?

Thanks
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Putting a Roosa on can be a piece of cake or it can be a chore. It depends on what style pump drive you have. Most 1850's had a pump with a female spline in the end of the pump roughly 3/4" diameter, and a short splined shaft connecting it to the drive gear. Later 1850's used a drive hub on the end of the pump that had male splines about 1 1/2 diameter. You need to have the new style drive to put a roosa on.
If your engine has the typical 1850 high rpm no load flutter, you have a old drive.

Changing the engine from old drive to new drive is a bit of a chore, timing cover, cam gear, and auxillary shaft needs to come out, and a new bronze gear, thrust plate, pressure plate, and pump mounting plate needs put in.

Other than that, I've sold several guys pump's that I've put together and pre-bent line sets. It bolts right on, lines hook right up, you just need to deal with fuel feed and return lines, throttle and shutoff linkage.
 
oliverpuller - yes it has the Perkins I'm not looking to do a swap, just curious about mods for the Perkins.

9724VF350 - I'm guessing I have the older style since its a 1964 (first year of 1850 I believe). Is there any easy way to tell without disassembly?
 
Not that I recall (seems to sing smoothly throughout), but I will go out and double check. Do you have any more info on your Oliver 9724VF350 or your services? Thanks
 
tcs said:
Not that I recall (seems to sing smoothly throughout), but I will go out and double check. Do you have any more info on your Oliver 9724VF350 or your services? Thanks
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Most old style drives are wore out, and cause timing slop which makes the engine flutter at wide open no load conditions.
If you don't have a flutter you either have a old style drive in good condition, or new style.

You could also take the 3 nuts off holding the pump down and lift the pump up enough to peek in there and see what style you have. You won't screw up timing, both drive's have a blind spline that you can't screw up.

The tractor in my avatar belongs to a buddy of mine, 2150 component alcohol tractor. Hercules, (sort of) billet block and head, the only thing herc anymore is the crank, cam gear, and rear seal retainer.

This one is mine.
1655.jpg
 
9724VF350

Thats a sharp tractor I had a 1650 that I was going to put a cummins in but I already had one friend pulling a cummins and another one building one. I ended up taking the lazy mans way and building an IH. You probably know the answer to this but I think I heard it somewhere. Could you take the 1006 series perkins (372ci I think) that have the A pump and put it into the oliver chassis. That would allow an even better pump, crossflow head?, and more cubes.
 
oliverpuller said:
9724VF350

Thats a sharp tractor I had a 1650 that I was going to put a cummins in but I already had one friend pulling a cummins and another one building one. I ended up taking the lazy mans way and building an IH. You probably know the answer to this but I think I heard it somewhere. Could you take the 1006 series perkins (372ci I think) that have the A pump and put it into the oliver chassis. That would allow an even better pump, crossflow head?, and more cubes.
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I'm not completely sure on that one, we parted out a MT535 cat challenger that had a 1006 in it, I would like to do some checking to see if a typical 354 oil pan and flywheel housing will fit, at a quick glance the bolt patterns look similar. This one had a VP30 ( I think, it was burnt and melted) pump on it.
1006 heads were never crossflow, the early ones were pretty much the same as a .4 354, later ones were a full 12 port, but they both had the manifolds on the right side.
 
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