Software beta testers needed for 'Anteater'

I have spent the past two days reading all 37 pages. I have an 05 with the 48RE. The sprang went out of stock converter 3 years ago. I put in a Goerend triple disk converter, which I found out was the wrong thing to do. I had very firm shifts and converter would lockup the same time as the 3-4 shift. With 205,000 miles on the truck and occasional 2nd gear slip, I installed a transmission that was rebuilt with Goerend parts. A billet flexplate and billet input shaft were installed. I now get 5 distinctive shifts, but the 5th shift(converter clutch) is a lot firmer than the 1-4 shifts. I was considering an ATS Co-Pilot before I read thru this post. I would consider an Anteater, if it will do what I'm looked no for. I know the harder the throttle is pushed, the former the shifts, because of the increase in pressure. I use this truck on the farm, daily driving and pulling gooseneck trailers. A slight increase between shifts and a little less firmness in the converter clutch lockup is what I think I am after. Will the Anteater accomplish what I am looking for? Thanks.
 
You can move your shift points up and down in speed compared to road speed, which In turn will change how firmly it shifts each gear. The lower the mph, the lower the engine speed, the softer the shift.

You could do the same thing with the TCC lockup, but your road speed, gear, engine speed and boost will all play in to where you need lockup to happen.

I think you can get the results you want, but you have to be willing to make pressure adjustments and put in the drive time to get it where you want it.

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Please pm me the info to whoever I need to email about getting hooked up with one of these

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For those that are interested, I'm selling my Anteater, complete, with Timbo conversion APPS. $700 and I'll pay shipping. Text me at (361)480-7746.
 
Good product
 

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is there anyway to get the old style controller style that fits in a gauge pod?im not to worried about mine melting and it would look a lot cleaner

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thatguy69 said:
is there anyway to get the old style controller style that fits in a gauge pod?im not to worried about mine melting and it would look a lot cleaner

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Unfortunately I don't have any more of the parts needed to make the round gauge remotes.
 
joefarmer said:
The 1-2 shift should happen with gov pressure ~45psi which by your description is 12mph. If it's not shifting at that point, the TV preset is too high which will stack 1-2 and 2-3. Normally, TV around 80-85% is about right.

I haven't been successful with jackstands because no load allows it to accelerate too quickly.
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Decided to put some miles on it. Still have the gauge on the governor and still have the 1-2 shift happening at 25mph. I finally got the laptop to stay online long enough to see what Anteater was seeing for gov. Pressures. In OD and TCC my gauge reads a solid 125. The anteater shows 95. The other gears match, sort of. Bad transducer?

One new observation, when the trans is cold, the shifts match the anteater set points exactly. But, within 10-20 miles, it's back to shifting 1-2 at 25 mph. I don't have a trans temp gauge. This happens with normal driving, no trailer or heavy acceleration. Any suggestions?

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clarkoh said:
Decided to put some miles on it. Still have the gauge on the governor and still have the 1-2 shift happening at 25mph. I finally got the laptop to stay online long enough to see what Anteater was seeing for gov. Pressures. In OD and TCC my gauge reads a solid 125. The anteater shows 95. The other gears match, sort of. Bad transducer?

One new observation, when the trans is cold, the shifts match the anteater set points exactly. But, within 10-20 miles, it's back to shifting 1-2 at 25 mph. I don't have a trans temp gauge. This happens with normal driving, no trailer or heavy acceleration. Any suggestions?

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Click to expand...
If the 1-2 shift doesn't happen when the pressure gauge moves from 0psi to the first set point (~60psi in your case), then the TV cable has too much pressure which prevents the 1-2 shift valve from operating.
 
I test drove/rode in a 6.7 Cummins with a 48re swap with an Anteater last week, and I was impressed, cool controller, had a couple different tunes for daily driving, racing, etc. and overall seemed to work as advertised. Good job to all who worked together to bring Anteater to market!
 
Is there any option for using the tow/haul button for an 05? Sorry if it's already been discussed I skimmed the thread and didn't find anything
 
Big Blue24 said:
I test drove/rode in a 6.7 Cummins with a 48re swap with an Anteater last week, and I was impressed, cool controller, had a couple different tunes for daily driving, racing, etc. and overall seemed to work as advertised. Good job to all who worked together to bring Anteater to market!
Click to expand...
Thank you from test monkey #1

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YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Is there any option for using the tow/haul button for an 05? Sorry if it's already been discussed I skimmed the thread and didn't find anything
Click to expand...
Can you elaborate? To use as a tow/haul mode, no. To wire it to change tune or lockup command, yes.

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So the twin pins on the board we can sauter too will work with a momentary switch? Say I want to use a momentary switch to lock the converter. I push the switch the board latches the input and the converter will stay locked until I reach my unlock setpoint or until I hit the monetary switch again to unlatch it?

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biggy238 said:
Can you elaborate? To use as a tow/haul mode, no. To wire it to change tune or lockup command, yes.

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To change tunes, currently we have our tow/haul button changing tunes with the PCS/ATS
 
You'd just hit the button on the control panel, it holds 3 preset tunes and you can switch them at will.
 
Big Blue24 said:
I test drove/rode in a 6.7 Cummins with a 48re swap with an Anteater last week, and I was impressed, cool controller, had a couple different tunes for daily driving, racing, etc. and overall seemed to work as advertised. Good job to all who worked together to bring Anteater to market!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words! It's been a long road (pun fully intended :hehe:) and I'm very thankful for the support from Firepunk Diesel and all the beta testers.

thatguy69 said:
So the twin pins on the board we can sauter too will work with a momentary switch? Say I want to use a momentary switch to lock the converter. I push the switch the board latches the input and the converter will stay locked until I reach my unlock setpoint or until I hit the monetary switch again to unlatch it?

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Click to expand...

The solder points on the remote board are to relocate the existing switches. In other words, a momentary switch connected to the OD pins will enable and disable the OD lockout function exactly the the button on the remote does. They don't have functionality to change the lockup. For that, you can set the lockup curve in the tune. Or, I suppose if you really want to, connect a lockup switch but that kinda defeats the purpose of having a standalone transmission controller that does what you tell it.
 
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