Black Beauty Build Thread

Well I found a $40 rail sensor and a $115 rail relief valve on ebay and both claim to be genuine NEW bosch oem product so I'm gonna give it a shot on both since they're soo much cheaper than ordering through cummins. Well see if it's too good to be true.



I may be a little late. But if you suspect the rail relief you can test it using a M12x1.5 bolt. Just replace the banjo bolt and see if issue persists. I typically run them for a few days just to be sure.


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Well I still have the 0191 code but now out of the blue the truck decided to just start right up fine with the first crank every time. IDK what the hell changed or why now its working but it is. I'm still going to change out all parts though.
 
Here's the oil analysis from PDD full syn with booster.

6590ede824bdd29a3fac8f3b8eda5710.jpg



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Popped an f-ing P0191 code again. Any ideas? I guess I just need to swap the CP3 next or what lol? I hate just part changing but I can't find any info on this problem code.


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You definitely have something going on with rail pressure.

Did you see this same symptom with your old pressure relief valve before you swapped them?

What about if you run in 3rd gear at 70mpg? Rail pressure will rise, and I wonder if the symptom will follow. Need to rule out the gage and transducer before throwing a CP3 at it. Do you have another rail gauge?
 
You definitely have something going on with rail pressure.

Did you see this same symptom with your old pressure relief valve before you swapped them?

What about if you run in 3rd gear at 70mpg? Rail pressure will rise, and I wonder if the symptom will follow. Need to rule out the gage and transducer before throwing a CP3 at it. Do you have another rail gauge?

I'm fairly certain the gauge is good. I see the same thing on my logs. In third gear at 70mph it won't do it quite as bad as OD. I did see this symptom with the old relief also.

Here is a WOT run and you can see it holds good rail the whole time. This is at ~1700 us.

Full throttle test - YouTube

Did you replace cross over tubes when you did your injectors?

I did not replace the tubes, just the o-rings on them.


So to recap:
-New BMS 100HP 143* injectors
-New O-rings on x-over tubes
-New Cascade valve
-New FCA
-New rail pressure sensor
-New rail relief valve
-Lift pump supplys good FP
-Rail pressure now holding at WOT, before it would drop
-No external diesel leaks
-No internal diesel leaks(verified by oil sample test and continuing to monitor lvls)


The only other thing I notice besides the P0191 code and the bouncing FP is that at an idle it will like "barely" have a miss occasionally, more so when the engine is cold.
 
I wanna say I had that code a couple years ago turning out of a stoplight. Truck was stumbling and running like it had a cylinder shut off. I pulled over and shut it off and started again and it was gone. It was really humid with a lot of condensation I don't know if that had anything to do with it.

I would do an injector return flow test to make sure something isn't leaking, it seems like these things can throw weird codes and run odd if the expected fuel commanded from the pump isn't matching up with what's injected. Would also plug the rail for a week to rule that out, maybe something isn't seating right.
 
Well the CEL went off on it's own now and no code present. LOL, WTF with this thing. One thing I do miss about my older trucks is changing injectors was simple and headache free haha. I guess I'll see how long it last like this and just keep checking everything.
 
I read these "beating my head against a wall" comonrail threads and feel a lot better about ditching the CR life several years back. We had similar issues for a long time. ECM still good? At one point we had a bad ECM that would do weird things and was hard to diagnose.


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I believe the ECM is still good. All has been well lately, runs good, no issues.

Next weekend I'll be replacing belt, tensioner, idler, all hoses and coolant. Drain the PS pump and fresh fluid. All steering components (stayed with inverted Y style). Track bar bushing with lukes link bushings, upper/lower EMF balljoints, Timken unit bearings, going to change the rear diff oil also.

We're going to be making two long trips in it here soon so I want to make sure all these stock wear item parts have been changed. Anything else anyone can think of that I should replace? I've already changed the transmission, t-case, front diff oil, front axle u-joints, front brakes and rotors.
 
All that and you are sticking with the Y style drag link and trac bar setup? Don't cut corners now.

Have you replaced the steering shock as well?

I'd spin all the pulleys while the belt is off. See if any feel rough.
 
All that and you are sticking with the Y style drag link and trac bar setup? Don't cut corners now.

Have you replaced the steering shock as well?

I'd spin all the pulleys while the belt is off. See if any feel rough.



Yeah I'm stock height and this truck rides and handles well. Don't see how a thirteen track bar would change anything. I mm pretty sure the Luke's link bushing are a harder durometer than oem and can only tighten it up more. Plus they are way cheaper.

I haven't replaced the steering shock. Gonna see how it looks when I pull it off. Nothing against steering shocks, but they're more of a bandaid IMO.

I know what everyone says about the y vs t steering but I've built myself and had several different steering setups on multiple rigs and the inverted Y makes the most sense on this truck the way its setup. Plus won't have to worry with a dead spot in the steering and broken driver side tie rod ends, and a shorter turning radius with T style steering. It solved some potential problems but created a lot more. Plus the Y style last 200k miles that's pretty damn good in my book and it's much cheaper as well.


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I've had no issues with my Moog inverted y setup and it was on my truck when I bought it 40+k mi ago. I do grease my truck pretty often though.
 
I've had no issues with my Moog inverted y setup and it was on my truck when I bought it 40+k mi ago. I do grease my truck pretty often though.



Proper maintenance helps everything.


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Understood.

The steering shock helps more than I imagined. My dads 04 CR 4wd was starting to get some signs of death wobble with stock tires. (Whole front end needs rebuilding, parts on the bench)
Changed the shock and noticed a huge difference! Going to get by for another month until we can spend a Sunday rebuilding.

Nice bumper choice. Where are your new headlight housings?


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