01 Faint knock

[01 smoke]

I have a slight knock after the truck warms up to 140 and when an load is applied.
I will try to make this short.
November last year went to leave work and my truck did not want to start. When I finally got it to start I had excessive smoke almost white and a rough idle. Shut the truck off and restarted. Still heavy smoke but better and a better idle. Decided to drive it home (shouldn't have). Got about a mile and a half from the house and herd a slight knock. Got home, pulled the injectors and sent them to be checked. Had one broken spring and two not sealing. Got the injectors back (like six weeks later) with new springs and reinstalled. Idled rough and #6 was cold (like 30 degrees). Swapped #5 and #6 and all evened out but still a little heavy on smoke and still had the knock above 140 and under load. Got aggravated and shoved the truck in the barn for the winter.
Got the truck back in the garage I think in June and pulled the injectors back out and had them checked by someone else. Had one with the pop pressure about 10 bar to high. He re shimmed and sent them back. I have not reinstalled yet and may not. I guess my main question is could the injection pump be causing a fuel knock if there is a timing issue with it or do I just need to nut up and pull the motor? Would it be worth the time to throw in a different pump and injectors to rule them both out? Mainly the pump as I fully trust the last person that check the injectors. Sorry for the long post.

 

[1-5-3-6-2-4]

01 VP44 pump engine?

Pull your engine codes?

I believe there's very little chance it's your injectors. Possibly the VP. Possibly base engine issue.

I'd start diag on the VP first.

 

[01 smoke]

Truck in my sig. No codes. Thanks for the reply.

 

[cetanefreek]

I'll bet your injector with the broken spring either melted the piston, or washed the cylinder wall. Know anyone with a borescope?

 

[01 smoke]

I haven't been able to locate a scope with a small enough tip.

 

[cetanefreek]

If it were me, I'd just bite the bullet and pull the head since I'm betting you'll be going farther than that to fix it. But that's just me.

 

[95cummins5.9]

A friends 24v had a same faint knock and lots of white smoke.. 3 melted with ringlands broken etc. Wish ya luck.

 

[Shainer]

Compression & leak down tests will point you in the right direction.

 

[smokinVE]

I haven't been able to locate a scope with a small enough tip.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WY9F7E?keywords=bore%20scope%205.5mm&qid=1444601115&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2"]Amazon.com: Vividia 8mm USB Flexible Inspection Camera Borescope Endoscope: Camera & Photo@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31r0YMZ25ML.@@AMEPARAM@@31r0YMZ25ML[/ame]

Cheap and works good enough.

However, I agree with the other guys, you'll probably be pulling the engine from what your describing. I hope that's not the case though.

 

[cetanefreek]

Mine had a scarred up cylinder with a bit of a knock as well.

 

[01 smoke]

Thanks for the replies. Fifty dollars isn't bad. I will get it ordered and report back with what I find.

 

[johnfak]

I have a similar one with even smaller head .... unless the poster has experience with that I found the cheaper scopes picture too low quality to see ...much

Be better of paying more or renting .... 2 cents

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[01 smoke]

Pulled the head. Pistons and cylinder walls look good. #6 Piston had a bit more build up. On to the bearings.

 

[1-5-3-6-2-4]

Ya I've got a snap on scope and 5.5mm tip. And you still have to be just right to get a good look.

 

[01 smoke]

Well the motor is out. Looks like a bad #6 rod bearing or bent rod.
#6 is about .075 shorter than #1.

 

[01 smoke]

Motor is apart. #6 rod is bent. Everything else looks good.

 

[01 smoke]

Getting close to putting the motor back in. #6 Rod was bent and #1 piston was installed backwards when assembled at the factory. Honed the cylinders, decked block, surfaced the head, new rings and bearings, Hamilton 178-208 cam, HD push rods, springs and tappets. Had the exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust housing ceramic coated. Will be getting a set of Westons injectors and going to put the Monster pump back on if it doesn't sell first. Believe the bent rod was caused by one of three bad injectors that leaked down. Replaced all of the hard break lines with stainless lines, put braided lines on the front and the feed line for the rear. Also replacing the fenders, all the doors, the bed and getting a fresh paint job. 2" Billet allum. spring spacers in the front and add a leafs in the back.
Had a 20X30 shop built in the corner of my barn so I would have enough room to work on this thing.
I need a good rust free heat exchanger if anyone has one laying around.

 

[01 smoke]

Engine is back in and sounds great. Now I have to get my body guy moving!

 

[Johndeere60]

How tight is putting the engine in with the head on?


2001 regular cab factory 6 speed factory sport. 90,xxx miles. 180 ppump maxxed and balanced and usual goodies. 6x.013 and BW sxe s369 waiting to go on. Fass 150 at 50psi, dual feed, south bend dual disk 3600,arp headstuds, t3 stainless diesel mani, pusher 3.5" kit with crazy Carl ppump plenum plate,5" straight. Autometer ultralite 2 egt, boost, fuel psi. BHAF custom.

 

[01 smoke]

To tight lol. Pull the rockers off of 5 and 6. That will help. Also have the back of the engine quite a bit lower than the front.