03 6.0L - needing some help tracking down the problem

Ltk

Ltk

Broke
Joined
Mar 15, 2013
Messages
468
The first problem I had was me driving about 55 MPH one morning, everything was warmed up, made it about 20 miles. Truck started shaking violently, and when I pulled over and opened the door, noticed it was idling harshly. Shaking the truck pretty bad. Pulled back onto the road and couldnt get over 35 MPH.. took a few seconds to get going almost like a dead pedal. I turned the truck back on after about 8 hours of sitting while at work, and it still idled funny. I revved it up a few times to about 1500, and it died and would not start back.

The next morning I came to tow it, and it started just fine but idled funny.

I towed it home and checked and cleaned the EGR valve thinking that could be the problem.

IMG_0801_zps93ed4af4.jpg

it was coked up pretty bad

after cleaning and reinstalling, i checked battery voltage because my batteries look like this...
IMG_0771_zps322f76e1.jpg


(yep thats a rat turd, thats another issue..)

Both batteries read exactly 12.22V which I was told was a little low.

I tried to start it back up, because it was easy to start previously after letting it cool down, and I heard a few clicking noises under the hood as well as my gauges went insane sweeping back and forth...

Found and removed a rats nest under the turbo too... Cant park near a barn for more than 5 minutes....

Does anyone know what could be going on with the idling/dying when reaching a certain RPM, or the gauge sweeping?

This happened about a month ago, and I've searched everywhere and can't find the gauge actions in anyone's post. Any help or suggestions on what to fix are appreciated.. I'm in college and currently broke as a joke from tuition... So need to get by as cheap as I can without throwing random parts at it.:bang
 
To start with clean the battery end's up and the battery. See what happens and post back. Thats something cheap. IF stil run's like chit put on scan tool in check injectors and high pressure pump. If got a multimeter check ficm voltage while cranking it. There are several video's on online on how to test it along with detailed thread on forum's.
 
yea i cleaned the batteries the day i took the pic. then the next morning it had all that white powdery crap back there... sorry didnt get a pic of it clean lol. after cleaning them 3x and them returning back to looking like this, i stopped cleaning them.

i do not have a scan tool or access to one without towing the truck to the nearest shop which is about 10 miles away, and i have a voltmeter. will it hurt the FICM to crank while reading the voltage? i read somewhere that weak batteries can damage the FICM
 
FICM's like correct voltage. You need good batteries for the test.
 
the idleing and dying and only starting up cold sounds like a HPOP and the gauges sound like a cluster or GEM module
 
wish i knew how to check all those..

ill test the FICM though once i get the money for batteries..

this is the 4th major breakdown since 166k miles, it now has 192k. im about to yank the motor and buy me a 12v. seems a lot simpler and smarter than dumping more money into a motor i already have 4k in repairs on
 
Bring your batteries in and get those tested FIRST, before looking at the FICM. Have them load tested individually. If one is bad, you should replace both. After you've verified your battery condition. Do a FICM test, and do it on a cold motor. When you turn the key in the morning can you hear your injectors buzzing at all? This sounds like a low voltage problem honestly.

If you don't have money to even fix this, which is likely a simple issue, I highly doubt a 12V is a good alternative.

Let's get this figured out, it's probably not that big of a deal. What the heck did you dump 4k into?

I wouldn't consider this a "major breakdown" Lot's of people have batteries fail every day....
 
well the 12v would be coming out of a truck that's family owned, but its got its fair share of issues too.

i will have them load tested in a couple days, and yes i can hear the injectors buzz.

the reason im saying it's a big breakdown, is because it started as an idle/driving problem which it would shake violently and not go over 35-40 MPH, then after fixing and checking a couple things, all of a sudden having a ground/battery voltage problem or whatever the case may be. going to drain the tank and change both fuel filters as well. i guess the problem I have to fix first is at least getting the truck running so i can see how it's acting after draining the fuel, replacing both filters, and cleaned the EGR valve
 
gonna hang onto it, only has 150k miles on it and well taken care of. the truck just had some serious rust issues
 
how bout change all sensors, injectors, highpressure oil rail seals and injector harnesses , i think for sure it will fix it. if that dont work message me and we can put a cummins in it.
 
You need to start simple. when was it serviced last? change the oil and filter and fuel filters(both of them). check air folter real good. Do you run any additive in the fuel? If you don't start because the fuel really sucks.
 
i replaced the batteries 2-3 days ago, and wow what a difference. drove the truck up and down the driveway probably 5-10 miles total and couldnt get it to die. it runs and drives perfectly fine. going to continue this every day for 3-4 days then try it out on the road. just dont want another tow bill to bring it to my house.

can something as simple as weak batteries have caused all this crap? i run diesel kleen additive
 
yes i do, but she only likes to break down on the highway. i think she likes being on a rollback. anybody have any insight on the problem?
 
Low voltage is a killer on a 6.0 we get them in at the dealership all the time with weak batteries. Like said check your alternator
 
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