03 Engine removal?

[BigYellowIron]

I havent removed a engine on a 3rd Gen, and search didn't show me much.

What are the tips on getting the engine out in a resonable amount of time?

One guy told me that it wont come out with the head on without cutting the lower rad support, I find that hard to believe.

Its a auto, so I think I can leave the tranny in and still be able to get it lines back up when i go back in.

I was just wanting some heads up before I tear into it, otherwise I sure Ill figure it out.

Thanks for any tips.

Adam

 

[Walker]

Once you take the rad support the front is clear. I would think the cross member would be hard to clear. I haven't pulled a motor though.

 

[CPSimpson]

Unbolt the cab and lift it about 4-6 inches, it will save a lot of headaches

 

[ComnRailPwr]

Lower RAD support is a pain. Gotta take a fender loose to get it out. I cut mine. It is a pain to clear the oil pan because of the head hitting the wiring harness and fire wall up by the cowel. Unbolt the motor mounts from the block and the frame mount. Don't forget the return line and the ground wire on the back of the head. Remove starter otherwise it'll hit the frame motor mount. Bout all I can think of @ the moment.

Jake

 

[DieselWrencher]

We usually remove the valve cover and put a good towel over the engine when installing an engine. It is a tight fit but you can get them in and out with the head on. Also, since it is an auto, be very careful with the torque converter cooler lines. If they are ceased you can break the fitting out of the cooler. The line nuts also like to take the threads off the fittings on the cooler, so be careful or leave it on the truck if you can. These sob's are pricey. And, yes you can leave the trans in as well. Like already mentioned, those lower supports are real dang nice too. LOL

 

[roachie]

 

[BigYellowIron]

What am i missing in that pic roach? Im simple minded Help me.

 

[Chris Mallett]

I always remove the two front body mount bolts and have 2 men with bars pry the lower fender supports apart, just enough for the far support to come out. Two shackles and a bar across the top of the engine lift rings instead of a chain will keep the firewall from getting beat up.

 

[Chris Mallett]

Unbolt the cab and lift it about 4-6 inches, it will save a lot of headaches

This was the first way I pulled one, tried to do it without removing the trans.

 

[Chris Mallett]

What am i missing in that pic roach? Im simple minded Help me.

I see a port a power, this takes place of the two friends with bars.

 

['strokeThis_'07]

I cut my bar out. It has 4 or 8 bolts, can't remember. So I notched each side so all I have to do is unbolt it and slide it out. Then slide it back in and bolt in place. No undoing body mounts, no prying, no jacking. Easy as pie.

I also pulled my head, but that was also to diagnose what the f'k happened and whether the whole thing had to come out. But I believe just removing the valvecover and putting a towel over it is possible.

It's also possible to remove the engine without removing the lower bar; all that won't clear is the sump. Jack it up, slide it forward as far as you can, then lift the ass end up and over the bar. Pretty easy. I did that on removal and install, only cut the bar when I pulled the cam after I installed the engine.

 

[roachie]

What am i missing in that pic roach? Im simple minded Help me.

Placed a port-a-power in the support to spread it apart and get out the lower crossmemeber. This is how Dodge wants it done and it is the easiest way I have found.

 

[BigYellowIron]

Thanks Guys. Ill be finding out all these tips this weekend.

 

[04.5CR]

I cut my bar out. It has 4 or 8 bolts, can't remember. So I notched each side so all I have to do is unbolt it and slide it out. Then slide it back in and bolt in place. No undoing body mounts, no prying, no jacking. Easy as pie.

I also pulled my head, but that was also to diagnose what the f'k happened and whether the whole thing had to come out. But I believe just removing the valvecover and putting a towel over it is possible.

It's also possible to remove the engine without removing the lower bar; all that won't clear is the sump. Jack it up, slide it forward as far as you can, then lift the ass end up and over the bar. Pretty easy. I did that on removal and install, only cut the bar when I pulled the cam after I installed the engine.

Most definetly the easiest way. If you are like anyone else it probably won't be the last time the engine is out. With the crossbar out, no pulling of head or valve cover.