05 ford

forddieselowner

forddieselowner

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Oct 11, 2012
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i was wondering if anyone knew about how long it will take to remove my 6.0 and install a 12v 5.9
 
i have not went to mechanic school, but i do havea friend that is gona help that is a certified diesel mechanic and ive been workingonmy 6.0 since i bought it in 05, i am quiet talented with wrenches..lol
 
forddieselowner said:
i have not went to mechanic school, but i do havea friend that is gona help that is a certified diesel mechanic and ive been workingonmy 6.0 since i bought it in 05, i am quiet talented with wrenches..lol
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Hell anyone that owns a 6.0L and their wallet still has money in it must be able to turn a wrench because a labor bill too keep one of those on the road will kill ya!

Now back to being serious we usually charge around 80 hours labor to do a swap if it is an automatic truck and a little less for a manual. Sure you can do it in a lot less time than that but when I am doing it for a customer I make sure that it looks like that motor came in that truck from the factory, so it takes some time.
 
^ yea i still have money in my pocket but im ready for a good motor, do u know if i needto do anything with the fuel lines, like change them and the fuel pump? i have the motor its sittin in a truck right now, i havent got the adapter plateand the fly wheel and all that to mount to my zf6 tranny, i have the 6 speed tranny.
 
Try reading in the 'conversion' section of this forum, a bit further down the page. Tons of valuable info
 
forddieselowner said:
^ yea i still have money in my pocket but im ready for a good motor, do u know if i needto do anything with the fuel lines, like change them and the fuel pump? i have the motor its sittin in a truck right now, i havent got the adapter plateand the fly wheel and all that to mount to my zf6 tranny, i have the 6 speed tranny.
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You can do it a few different ways since you are doing a 12V. You could delete all of your factory fuel system and run the factory mechanical lift pump on the block if you plan to keep it close to stock performance levels. I have used the factory fuel lines and fuel pump on a 7.3 truck we converted and deleted the mechanical lift pump on the engine. The best way to do it in my book is to get a fuel system (FASS or Airdog)and replace the entire fuel system with it. This really cleans up the install and gives you enough fuel for future modifications. It's nice that you have a manual truck, that makes life a bit easier for your swap. Destroked's motor mounts move the engine back a few inches so you will have modify the transmission cross member and lengthen and shorten your driveshafts in accordance with how much it moved. I always move both batteries to the driver side so you can make a nice intake on the passenger side because with the battery over there it gets kinda tight.
 
m88tow said:
You can do it a few different ways since you are doing a 12V. You could delete all of your factory fuel system and run the factory mechanical lift pump on the block if you plan to keep it close to stock performance levels. I have used the factory fuel lines and fuel pump on a 7.3 truck we converted and deleted the mechanical lift pump on the engine. The best way to do it in my book is to get a fuel system (FASS or Airdog)and replace the entire fuel system with it. This really cleans up the install and gives you enough fuel for future modifications. It's nice that you have a manual truck, that makes life a bit easier for your swap. Destroked's motor mounts move the engine back a few inches so you will have modify the transmission cross member and lengthen and shorten your driveshafts in accordance with how much it moved. I always move both batteries to the driver side so you can make a nice intake on the passenger side because with the battery over there it gets kinda tight.
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i was thinking about getting the airdog fuel system, as for the motor mounts would there be a way to mount it with out having move the tranny and shorting the driveshafts? i plan on replacing the clutch pack since it has 208k on it, going with one that will with stand 600hp or so, id like to put more power out of the 12v, i pull heavy weight enough to need power, my 6.0 was no match for 2.1 tons of material, it pretty much powerjoked...lol im gona get a bigger turbo, it already as 175 injectors.
 
forddieselowner said:
i was thinking about getting the airdog fuel system, as for the motor mounts would there be a way to mount it with out having move the tranny and shorting the driveshafts? i plan on replacing the clutch pack since it has 208k on it, going with one that will with stand 600hp or so, id like to put more power out of the 12v, i pull heavy weight enough to need power, my 6.0 was no match for 2.1 tons of material, it pretty much powerjoked...lol im gona get a bigger turbo, it already as 175 injectors.
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You could put the motor in without moving it back so everything lines back up but the point of moving it back is to gain room so you can run a fan. It's a tight fit even with the motor moved back. Call Southbend and tell them what you are doing and they will get you a clutch and flywheel to work with the cummins motor and ford transmission. You will want to upgrade the clutch because a stock ZF clutch will not be happy with the added torque.
 
ok, i will get on that, thanks for the help. how hard is it to shorten the drive shafts, i will have one from the dodge truck.
 
forddieselowner said:
ok, i will get on that, thanks for the help. how hard is it to shorten the drive shafts, i will have one from the dodge truck.
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You will want to use the driveshafts from your truck and have them shortened and lengthened as necessary. I recommend finding a good driveline shop near you and giving them the measurements so they can do the work and balance them at the same time. Luckily for me I do a lot of work for a driveline shop near me and we trade for work so it helps out. But you should be around $100 per shaft a little more if you need the front shaft lengthened because of the extra materials. Many times guys have gotten away with leaving the front shaft alone and just shortening the rear shaft. Only way to know is to get the motor and transmission in and bolted up and take your measurements :Cheer:
 
Bro, the worst part of the conversion is get the damn 6.0L out! The rest of it is a piece of cake. I like the destroked mounts as it places the engine back 2 inches to let you run a mechanical fan.

My 2 shafts were 300 bucks balanced.
 
LORDDiESEL said:
Bro, the worst part of the conversion is get the damn 6.0L out! The rest of it is a piece of cake. I like the destroked mounts as it places the engine back 2 inches to let you run a mechanical fan.

My 2 shafts were 300 bucks balanced.
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that is awesome, thanks, i was lookin at fordcummins.com at their packages to make things a lil quicker, but i dont wana cut corners, ive worked on my 6.0 for a long time and put 208k on it. i just wana get it out and put in a awesome motor
 
oh where did u get ur shafts from? and would the original one from the dodge be any good use to me?
 
forddieselowner said:
oh where did u get ur shafts from? and would the original one from the dodge be any good use to me?
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You'll be using the stock ford shafts. You'll have to move the trans crossmember back the 2". Or if you have a lift kit, add an ear to the back of it as it cannot be moved back. Also look for a ford V10 gas pedal as you'll be needing it.
 
forddieselowner said:
i actually wana put a 6" lift on it so i can put my 36" on my ford
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This is what you will have to do....

I cut a hole in the member and slid a piece of 1/4 plate all the way to the front of the member. Welded it all the way around. Then i put a piece of 3/16 on the back of the ear it to flush it up. Cut your holes and you're good to go.
 

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