12-Rail

Just as a side note to the select shift standalone ATS valve body and tuning. Go into the
LOAD VS. LINE PRESSURE and set all the gears to never go to zero duty cylce. I would highly recommend no less than 30 duty cycle (which is roughly 150-160psi) zero duty cycle is 250+ psi and will break some crap.....
 
Great job on the swap! I'm going to be doing this same swap really soon but I'm trying do do as much research as I can first. Can I ask why you relocated the factory oil cooler to the frame? And did it come out from behind the oil filter?
 
The factory 12 valve tappet cover vent would have interfered with the factory location of the oil cooler, also it kept things simple on that side of the engine, also didn't crowd the injector pump so bad either.
 
what about the cruise control? I am in the midle of the same swap only i have a six speed insted of the auto.
 
Dallas H. said:
what about the cruise control? I am in the midle of the same swap only i have a six speed insted of the auto.
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We didnt bother trying to get that to work since it never worked in the first place. I've heard that you can find the cruise control setup from a 2500 hemi powered ram and figure a way to make that work. But I haven't looked into that, so I can't tell ya first hand
 
Painless has came out with a harness that will clean up the installation and I am talking with a company in Fort Worth about flashing the ECM to get rid of all the junk I'm not using.
 
Dallas H. said:
Painless has came out with a harness that will clean up the installation and I am talking with a company in Fort Worth about flashing the ECM to get rid of all the junk I'm not using.
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Really?? that would make life real easy! I thought about contacting painless, but figured it'd be really expensive for a one time order.
 
The thing you mounted to the frame is actually a heat exchanger, oil cooler is in front of the radiator.
Now all you need is a lockout hub conversion kit for the front end and it will b a great truck
 
Dad just texted me a few moments ago and he reported 21mpg in town and on farm driving, that's impressive my friends! The 12 valve is now 3mpg better than the common rail motors best in town on farm mileage.
 
kino_fab said:
MAy have missed it, but did you have to use teh CR cam sensor or just the crank sensor?
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We used only the crank sensor

Created this little gem of a paint job. Pops says its a little too radical for his truck. LOL

qygyzuty.jpg
 
Carnage update

punehyze.jpg




FUBAR bellville spring in the forward pack LOL truck lost reverse and would load up in park or neutral. Pulled the trans last night and found this. Obviously this was a pressure related failure. Luckily we caught it early and it didn't take out any clutches. Just needs more tuning, more growing pains... That's just life!

To anyone using the same valve body, I cannot stress how important a pressure gauge is. Also.... NEVER USE THE ATS OUT OF THE BOX TUNE FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN INITIAL SETUP. It will stress the bellville spring and it will eventually break, even if its temporary to move the truck, they have the duty cycle set at 0 when you put the truck in gear, and guess what pack is engaging when you pull it into drive? Yep the forward pack. Goodbye bellville spring! Hopefully this is the last time we break any hard parts.

On edit, 0 duty cycle will produce 250psi and up. We have seen 280 once, which probably caused our failure, just not immediately. We have been running a tune with lowered pressure for several months now.
 
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