12 valve swap in 2000?

RickFox

RickFox

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Oct 28, 2006
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Alright I have done some searching and it has answered some of my questions, but not all of them. I have been thinking of putting a 12v in my 2000 and I am wondering what all is it going to take? I have read that with it being a 2000 I have to worry about the crank and cam sensors, does anyone have a good way to handle the crank sensor? Would it be feasable to use my 24v block and put the 12v head on it? I have not found too much information about doing that. I have read people saying it would be a lot easier if I can find a 98 12v engine harness, would I need just the 98 engine harness or the computer as well? If I can't find the 98 engine harness (since I know they are extrememly hard to find), what options would there be for the crank sensor? Could a guy get a 2001-2002 engine harness and not have to worry about the crank sensor?

I know a lot of you are just going to say "Just P-Pump it" I have been considering that as well, BUT it appears that there are just a lot of problems with the conversion injector lines (i.e. fit, sealing, cracking). With that in mind lets just pretend that P-pumping it isn't an option.

Any and all help is appreciated,
Rick
 
Talk with Brett with TNT diesel, he did this to his truck a few years ago. He should know all the issues.
 
if i was you i would just p-pump it, but if you want to go 12 valve thats fine. i just went the other way with mine. went from 12 valve to p-pumped 24 valve. i would keep you block and just put 12 valve pistons, head and p-pump on it. leave your stock cam for alittle performance upgrade, or get a BIG STICK and put in. then when you done putting the motor together, just treat the swap as a p-pumped 24 valve. put the cam sensor in the timing cover and the other stuff that comes with the p-pump swap. just my $.02
 
p-pump 24v = holy grail cummins.... lots of air and a RELIABLE injection pump that can move some serious fuel...
 
Bump, does anyone else have any more thoughts on this? Got my engine apart and found block has some scored cylinder walls, and I have 3 junk pistons. Looking at just buying a complete 12 valve as opposed to trying to get my 24 valve fixed. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Rick
 
I knew a guy a couple weeks ago that had a complete 12 valve for sale Rick, i'll look him up to see if he's still got it.
 
The lines fit fine. I had zero problems with mine. I would just p-pump it.
 
I've been p-pumped for over 5 years and never had line trouble. I picked up a 12V motor long block yesterday with studs for a thousand dollars. Something like that would make the swap pretty easy, but don't be afraid of the p7100/24V.
 
No issues with my p-pump 24v lines. They didn't fit that great but a little tweaking and they are in place. Had it running almost a year now. Been very happy with the swap.
 
I have had two sets of lines, and they fit like ****. But not enough to make me want to swap out my 24v for a 12v. I think the p-pump swap would be less labour than a 12v swap. Less tonnage in out, at least.
 
I think he is saying that since his motor is shot, instead of rebuilding/replacing it & possibly p-pumping it he is just looking to put a 12 valve in instead. So all of the talk about wether to p-pump or not to is not answering the question of how difficult it would be to swap the 12 valve in there. Just the way i took it.
 
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