12v head porting disaster!

rattlebox93

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Sep 10, 2008
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ok so i started porting my head and i have cut through the floor of the exhaust port :nail: its cut through on the outside underneeth where there are the little pockets no biggy im going to weld the pockets full and finish my port job BUT!!!

my question is.... is there anywhere neer a water jacket that i could have gone thin enough to cause problems i did a little bowl work in the intake and exhaust ports nothing to radical i dont think i stayed clear of the area where the head bolt passes by and it dont look like there is any water anywhere neer the exhaust runner wich is where i have removed the most material but i figured id ask just in case before i spend another 4-5 hours working on this head that may already be junk
 
I haven't tried it, but I have heard of a product called Port-A-Putty. I guess you smear it inside the ports and it seals them so they don't leak. Use it sparingly and wipe off the excess with a tissue. Don't press too hard or you'll break through the tissue and your fingers will smell like Port-A Putty.
 
I haven't tried it, but I have heard of a product called Port-A-Putty. I guess you smear it inside the ports and it seals them so they don't leak. Use it sparingly and wipe off the excess with a tissue. Don't press too hard or you'll break through the tissue and your fingers will smell like Port-A Putty.

LOL @ the last sentence.
 
I wounder how that stuff would hold up to boost, EGTs, and heat cycles. Then if it comes off.... by by turbo(s).
 
I wounder how that stuff would hold up to boost, EGTs, and heat cycles. Then if it comes off.... by by turbo(s).

Did you mean "bye bye turbo(s), or buy buy turbo(s)" ? Because I think both are pretty likely... :lolly:
 
epoxy/putty works fine on the intake side, but I'm not aware of anything other than brazing that will work on the exhaust side
 
Brazing with a copper based braze won't hold up to 2000* EGT's. Most brazing compounds melt in the 1400* to 1700* range.
 
Use that head to secure a boat if you have one. Do another head, lot of work but so is a leaking head that you need to take off and not to mention the worry when it's going to give in.

Putty is junk on the exhaust side as Forrest said, don't even think. Even on the intake side you would need to do weld buttons to keep it in place securely. That stuff is not a streetcar/truck material. I don't like it.
 
epoxy/putty works fine on the intake side, but I'm not aware of anything other than brazing that will work on the exhaust side
Mondello sells a pyro putty that he uses for diesel pulling tractor exhausts. We'll see how well it holds up after I pull down this winter and check it out.
 
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