17,000psi... now that aint right?

Huntingman27062

Huntingman27062

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I heard you guys were the best so i figured id give yall a shot!

Sorry i havent filled anything out yet as i have just registered here 3 min ago... Ive got a 03 4 door 4x4 CTD... Ive got a boost fooler... little boost elbow thing (roughly at 32psi now)... intake... exhaust... tone ring mod... tranny... and i think thats really all... not much i know...

I had a shop run my rail pressure and was only getting around 17,000psi... ive got a hard start and kind of alittle studder when it does start... and loss of power of course...

I have a buddy that gave me a extra set of injectors and i swapped them in since and had mine tested... all tested fine... and i still have the issue with his injectors in it only alittle worse now cause one of his is leaking for sure... i gotta still swap them back out... i thought mine were bad and was gonna rebuild them but no need to now... anyways... ive also replaced the FCA and capped the fuel relief valve (relief valve capped is temp till i fix this)... any other ideas on what this might be other then the CP3?? im told the CP3's RARELY ever go bad... i thought about swapping the cascade over flow valve as i found a thread with a guy having this issue and that fixed his... well i say it did but people get the fuel relief valve and cascade overflow valve mixed up all the time... im not making oil... uuh... i think that pretty much covers it... could it be a leaking/cracked/bad injector tube? there tight cause i tightened them with my stock injectors still in and also when i swapped mine out... any other ideas would be great... but im thinking im looking at finding a CP3...
 
99% of the CR's that I've seen with the symptoms you've described have too high of a return rate on the injectors. Who tested yours?
 
well, with the injectors change outs, the re-tightening of the tubes and the fact you checked the other things.... I'm thinking connector tubes. It's recommended to change them along with every injectors change but, you can get away with reusing them a couple times if.... their heads aren't deformed and they were put back with the same injector they were with.

The tubes are very soft and should only be torqued to the ft.lbs recommended. If they deform, they will leak. That would be a reason for low rail psi and poor starting
 
triton said:
well, with the injectors change outs, the re-tightening of the tubes and the fact you checked the other things.... I'm thinking connector tubes. It's recommended to change them along with every injectors change but, you can get away with reusing them a couple times if.... their heads aren't deformed and they were put back with the same injector they were with.

The tubes are very soft and should only be torqued to the ft.lbs recommended. If they deform, they will leak. That would be a reason for low rail psi and poor starting
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when i got the truck from the dealer it had injector problems... they told me they replaced all of them... which i found kinda unlikely anyways... but when i started having issues i called them up to see what they had done and she said the computer said they only replaced 1...after i took them out 3 of them looked newer and im pretty sure even had stainless bodies... which is what bosch is slowely changing too... maybe they reused the injector tubes also... i dunno... with what your saying that could cause alittle more wear and tear on them... but if there leaking wouldnt i be "making oil"? i installed the back in the same order but who to say what the dealer did... and i have no idea how to check if the head is warped any? im going to be swapping my injectors back in and maybe ill replace the tubes while im at it? anywhere i can get them cheap? i see them used all day long on eBay but that wont do me any good...
 
Garmon's good! Some shops don't have proper test equipment to test the injector return rate. I agree with what triton says, I almost forgot but I bent one of my connector tubes a few years back and it caused problems...they will not make oil, the fuel that leaks usually gets returned to the tank.
 
i just got off the phone with Sheid diesel for a min and price stock and oversized injector tubes... but he said they dont ever replace the tubes with the injectors and it kinda depends on how many times they have been out... if the injectors tested good then that means the little port where the tubes plug in at is in good shape too so it would have to be something going on with the tubes... even he said normally if the CP3 goes... its gone... not this weak... when my VP44 went on my 98 it died going down the road at the snap of a finger... so only thing between the CP3 and injectors is injector tubes and lines... and the relief valve but like i said its blocked off already... so looks like im going to be checking out my tubes when i swap the injectors back out... he said something about the seals on the tubes but i dont really remember seeing any so im gonna check on that also... the over sized tubes are only $60 more then stock... would it be smart to go ahead and go for them while im at it? didnt even know they made them... once i get this fixed i can get ahold of a PPE but i dont want to till i fix this thing... thanks guys for the info!
 
the ports on the injectors wouldn't have anything wrong with them... they're steel. The tubes however are very soft metal and deform. Scheid would put everything back where it came from when doing work as they know better. That being the case, they may not replace them much. Cummins recommends changing them every time the injector is pulled.

Get a hold of Snedge here at the forum, he's a Cummins dealer and can get you the tubes. There's no benefit to going with bored out tubes, I wouldn't bother spending the extra cash.

I'm not saying that's your problem but, it's a place to start
 
sounds good ill look for him... but... gotta toss is some more info i just found... i unplugged my boost fooler just to see what power i lost with this issue... didnt change a thing... my power stayed the dang same? plugged it back in and no power gain? green lights on on the fooler... no check engine light... think it has something to do with the low fuel pressure just not letting the fooler work like its suppose too? or maybe something else? is it possible my ECM or something is causing all this? i wasnt planning on finding this but it sure doesnt make any sence to me...
 
The boost fooler doesn't add power, just keeps it from setting a code when boost is raised above fatory acceptable limits.
 
on one of my trucks the cp3 is weak- (40K miles) doesnt show over 17K psi- where the other stock cp3 will sit at 23K psi all day long
 
TheBigNasty said:
The boost fooler doesn't add power, just keeps it from setting a code when boost is raised above fatory acceptable limits.
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aahh... but when i first got it and plugged it in i had a big power gain and even more smoke... dont have any smoke now...
 
JasonCzerak said:
how exactly did you "cap" the rail relief?
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pulled the banjo bolt and ran a reg bolt in it... well... a oil drain plug that actually fits fine and you can get them at any autoparts store... ive seen these $40 custom made bolts but thats dumb to buy... got mine from autozone...
 
LReiff said:
I guess it could also be a bad RP sensor.
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saying i have 17k when i got 25ishk? that wouldnt explain the hard start... maybe if it was reading too much pressure and in turn telling the pump not to pump as much... but im not sure if thats even how it works... lol... if it worked like that then yeah... could be the sensor...
 
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