1951 Cockshutt 30–1.9L TDI Swap

I have a 58 IH 350U and a spare complete ALH vw sitting here. I'm certainly interested in everything you are doing.

I'm contemplating doing a gross version with no turbo, using entire VW harness etc and welding flywheel to crank and simple plasma cut adaptor plate using 2x 2mm sheet steel and spacers between for correct distance needed for clutch

Great work on your end, top notch work.
 
Your crankshaft to flywheel adapter looks very good! I see that you ended up using the factory triple square bolts,Good call.They are much more compact.
 
Canuckdiesel, my original plan with this project: make a sort of rusted, banged-up rat rod version with the VW wiring and PCM, gas pedal (for the APPS) all hanging out. This tractor is so straight, though, I ended up deciding to restore it instead, and the lack of a proper governor in the original tuning made me decide on a simple mechanical ag pump rather than trying to parse out all that wiring.

I did look at a Farmall 300 as a candidate early on, which would have been cool with the torque amplifier and all that, but the guy was asking $5000 for it. Plus it had a good engine and I didn’t want to break up a nice original unit. I ended up paying $1550 for the Cockshutt 30.

Your method sounds workable, so long as everything is lined up well.

Andy2, those ARP bolt heads were just too big, otherwise I would have used them. It’ll have to work with the originals, I guess. Thanks again!

***
As for updates, not much has happened due to the holidays. My brother has been busy with other things, and I will be out of town after next week; hopefully mid/late January we’ll get something done.

I also have the carburetor here for the Cockshutt 35. It’s in need of a cleanup/rebuild, and I have the air cleaner here as well; some of the wire mesh has fallen apart so it needs to be repacked. That tractor also has a nasty growl noise coming from the transmission (has always done this as long as I’ve owned it) so I have a pair of used gears from a 40 (same transmission) and four new bearings to swap into it—hopefully it’ll sound right after that. That’ll probably be a pretty big job; I can post some side notes about it here when it’s done. Not sure when I’ll get to it. Springtime, maybe?

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Small update.

This was Boxing Day, I think, but I stripped the rear end of the tractor to assess what it needs as well as having it ready for cleaning and paint in the springtime. There’s a bit of a list, so here it is:

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I still have to remove the PTO housing because it needs a few seals replaced, as well as repairing a piece of linkage for the PTO clutch because it is currently stuck on (this is a common issue on the Cockshutt 30.)

The transmission shifter has a lot of play. The fasteners were a bit loose, which tightening helped a lot, but there is a pin that rides in a slot in the pivot ball at the base of the shift lever that has worn. I knocked the pin out of the case and reinstalled it backwards to use the fresh side, which took some slack out, but I think I will have to weld up and grind the slot to tighten it up fully.

Here are the pedals, seat, brakes, floor panels, etc.

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The seat is OK other than needing to be taken apart and cleaned for paint, but the seat mount is bent. It’s very uncomfortable to drive this thing like this; it feels like you’re being dumped off the back. The plan is to make a new seat mount with a box for a second battery, since the factory battery location cannot house one big enough to crank the TDI reliably. So two smaller batteries will be used instead, one in the factory location and one under the seat.

The pedals aren’t in bad shape, other than the clutch pedal being wobbly on the shaft that it rides on. We’ll make a bushing for it, no big deal.

Drawbar in the corner.
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The mounting holes are worn egg-shaped after years of tugging so they’ll have to be welded up and reground to original.

Fenders. Not much to say; clean up, fill where needed and paint.
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The big story is the brakes. How they work is with a drum mounted inside out, with a shoe on the inside and the outside, and when the pedal is pressed it moves a lever that wedges the shoes together with the drum in between. There is no brake boost, but the brakes are attached to the bull pinions and exert braking force through the final drive, so I guess the mechanical advantage from the bull gear reduction could be considered the “brake booster.”
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The issues are as follows: the shoes are cracked, the friction material is worn out, the linkage and pins are worn, and the seals are leaking transmission gear oil. Basically everything is screwed.

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Here are the shoes next to some new friction material. New shoes are not available (as far as I know) so new material must be cut, drilled and riveted onto the old shoes. You can also see the lower pivot hole is worn, it will need welding and grinding.

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These shoes are cracked (indicated by the arrows) which will need welding.

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Here is one of the pivot pins that install in the case. You can see the groove worn into it; between this and the wear in the holes in the shoes there is a lot of slack, which makes the shoes engage crooked and wears the friction material on an angle. All of that needs to be tightened up in order to work properly.

Here is the gunk accumulated by the leaking seal that lives behind the drum. I have new seals here, pretty easy fix.
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So that’s where that is. Got my work cut out for me.

Still waiting on finishing the rear engine adapter for the TDI.

***
As a side job, I removed the carburetor and air cleaner from my 35 Deluxe last month. The carb was dirty (rough idle) after cleaning everything up when I did the head gasket (I think I got crap inside it while cleaning the manifolds). It’s been 20 years since it was serviced last so I just ordered a rebuild kit for it. The air cleaner element had been disintegrating and some of it was missing so I ordered new steel mesh for it. (It works by drawing intake air through an oil bath and then drawing the air and oil droplets through the steel mesh to catch dirt particles.)

Zenith updraft carburetor.
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Missing air filter mesh.
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Carb rebuild.
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Filter mesh comes in universal rolls like this. I had to buy four of them for this job.
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Will probably make the drive to reinstall them this weekend.
 
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Brakes, brakes, brakes.

I’ve been picking away at these for a few weeks now. The left side wasn’t too bad, other than the inner shoe being cracked around the 3/4” pin hole. I welded those up and added extra material there to add to the strength of it. Both inside shoes were split like this.

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Next came the anchor and actuator pins, which had deep grooves worn in them. (See previous post) That was simply welded up and reground back to original. Side note: I wish I had something better than a 120V flux core welder.

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Once that was fixed, I ground the rivets off, removed what was left of the friction material, and then cleaned everything up with the wire wheel.

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Another odd thing about the left side was that it appeared to have had the drum replaced at some point. You can see where it looked like the old one was cut off on a lathe and then had a new one welded on. The welds on the right side were much cleaner looking.

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Now for the right side. It was largely the same, except the drum looked original—and it was thinner, too. Both actually looked very thin, but I guess they don’t get used much, and certainly not at any real speeds so I guess that works. I don’t like the grooves and rust pitting on them, but I don’t think I’ll go to the trouble of replacing them. I’d probably have to have the drums made from scratch on a lathe anyway.

Anyway, the inner shoe on this side was in bad shape; it had a large crack moving across the face, plus the friction material was gone and the metal face had been worn away, leaving a high ridge on the side. Of course, the 3/4” pin hole was stretched out, causing it to flop around and run crooked.

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Once I got into it, I found welds from a previous repair. It looks like this shoe must have blown apart while in use and someone patched it back together with a welder, but the problem is it was twisted up and welded out of line, leaving it with poor fitment.

I decided to cut the welded pieces off and start again, putting it in the vice while the sides were off so it would be easier to bring it back into shape before welding it together.

Here are the old welds, one side cut off:
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Here you can see how twisted it was:
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Here’s the big crack with the deep groove worn into it:
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So here’s the crack welded, the worn section filled in (again, flux core—excuse the ugliness, but the friction material will eventually cover it) and the twist more or less straightened out.
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Then the sides were welded back on thusly:
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Then I added material to the holes to bring them back to size so they would fit nicely onto the 3/4” pin without a ton of slop.
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After lots of grinding to clean it up, I ended up with this:
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It looks decent in that picture, but honestly it’s still a dog’s breakfast. Still has a slight twist to it, and is covered in welds and rust pits. Part of the issue too was the actuator lever had a slightly bent pin, compounding the issue. (I was eventually able to straighten that a bit with the vise—not perfect, but close enough. It’s a heavy piece!)
Uneven wear will result from riding crooked like that. Here is an example of the outside shoe having worn a slant in the friction material because of its holes being worn egg-shaped:
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Anyway, that was a week or so ago, and after sleeping on it a few times, I decided to just make a new inner shoe. That was done yesterday, took me about four hours.
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Much better!

Not much to say about that process, just lots of measuring, cutting, drilling, grinding and welding. But I did take pictures as I progressed so I might as well post them.
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I welded the inside too, for strength. I didn’t want to because I liked the clean look without the weld, but I’d rather have to strong and not come apart on me—especially after grinding the outer weld down smooth.
I also left the sides straight so there’d be more material so they hopefully don’t crack around the 3/4” pin hole like the original ones did.
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Left and (new) right shoes:
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Anyway, that was a whole lot more dicking around than expected. The OCD in me wants to do something with those drums too, but I think if they spin straight I will just leave them because I will need a machinist with a lathe to fix them properly.

With it being cold and my garage unheated I can’t paint these parts, but I want to get the friction material attached so I might take the shoes to work and paint them so I can finish that, and the rest can wait until spring to get some colour put on.

After that I have to remove the covers from the sides of the tractor to clean up and install the new bull pinion seals so gear oil doesn’t leak all over these new brakes. Maybe next weekend, but we’ll see how it goes. I will be busy by then going back to the farm to reinstall the carburetor onto our Oliver 88. It was sputtering and stalling out so I rebuilt it this week since I already had the stuff out to rebuild the carb for the Cockshutt 35 the other week.
 
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It’s definitely nicer than the old one. Thanks for the comments!
 
Did the brake seals on the weekend.

Not much to it other than keeping the shims in order. The housings that contain the brake pinion seals also retain the differential inside the case, and the shims are what set the preload and position the ring gear for proper mesh.

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Lots of muck on them from oil leaking and causing dirt to stick and build up behind the drum.

The wire wheel cleaned them up easily, inside and out.
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Pound the seals in from the back until they hit the stops. Pretty much idiot-proof.
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Everything is cleaned up, including the bolts and shims (carefully; come of those shims are like paper) and have been set aside in boxes labeled “left” and “right”.
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They will not be reinstalled until the case has been cleaned and painted, which won’t be for a while. Here you can see the brake splines and the differential carrier bearing exposed.
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I might start stripping/cleaning the rear end soon. There’s a few more things to fix though, gotta go over my list again to see what’s next. What I’d like is to finish machining the engine adapter so it can be installed, but that’s still on hold until my brother can find some free time for it.

I’ve also gotten into something with my truck, so I have to juggle my time between that and the tractor. Since the tractor is in the garage, however, the truck is outside in the driveway so I can only work on that when the weather permits.
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This side of the engine bay is empty right now, so yes, this project has to do with spinny things.
 
So this post might be a bit of a mess, but here it goes. I’ve gotten into bunch of things on the 30, (plus truck stuff, which makes it harder to sort out what to talk about) including the PTO (power take off) unit.
This was a messy disassembly, with sludgy, gooey old gear oil that got everywhere, which means I didn’t take many pictures during that time. It’s cleaned up quite a bit now, so when it goes back together I’ll be sure to document the ins-and-outs of how this live PTO unit works.

Anyway, I removed that unit last weekend. The PTO was always running, which was a semi-common issue with these, where the key drive that moves the clutch forks break off. It’s a bit of a design flaw, as there is too much force being placed on to small of a key. (I’m not sure if “key” is the right word, but you’ll see what I mean.)

Anyway, here’s the PTO unit:
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Removing it opens up the differential and final drive of the tractor:
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The top left spline is the live PTO drive, which turns anytime the engine is running due to being splined to the clutch pressure plate. The lower spline in the centre is the rear end of the transmission input shaft, in case you ordered a tractor with the traditional type of PTO. These are less desirable because the PTO will stop when to push in the clutch to stop the tractor.
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After splitting the unit, I found lots of sludge in the bottom, gray goo that I think is clutch material that settled to the bottom, and a rather large piece of twisted metal.
This is the adapter plate with input shaft still attached, with the PTO spline, gear and bearing assembly removed.
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This is the rear housing with the clutch and lever/fork still installed. I know you can’t see much, but again, I didn’t get as many pictures as I would have liked due to being a complete f#@!$ mess.
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Here is the clutch pack removed. The outer gear on the left is driven at all times by the input shaft/gear, and is splined to a shaft that goes through the center and is keyed to the clutch discs by three tabs. The inner gear right next to the input gear is attached to the clutch plate and is keyed to a pair to steels that alternate with the clutch discs. This section free-wheels on the shaft until the clutch is engaged, which locks the whole assembly together and drives the larger gear on the PTO output shaft seen two pictures up.
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It is quite similar to a clutch pack in an automatic transmission, except it’s engaged by a lever driving a fork that pushes on a trio of levers that snap over-centre to engage the spring-loaded pressure plate. This is where the issue lies.

And here is the culprit:
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This is the breakdown. The ring (key) that is broken in half fits in the slot in the lever shaft, and the other half of the ring sits in the fork. The bolt goes through the middle of the ring and pinches the whole deal together. When the lever is pulled, it drives the fork forward to engage the clutch, and all that force is applied to that little ring. It apparently broke while trying to disengage the PTO, which is why it was stuck on.
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Anyway, we’re gonna machine a new ring out of something less hard/crack prone. Stainless, perhaps; haven’t decided yet. Beyond that, I found one of the ball bearings to be rather noisy, so I decided to replace them all—five in total.

Here are the cases, all stripped of parts and after a rough cleaning.
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Here are all the bearings. I was able to find them all using the numbers on the old ones, between Ebay and Amazon for about $250. I got a quote from a local supplier, but they quoted me nearly $700. No, thanks!
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Anyway, there’s a bunch of little covers and retainers to clean and sort out as well, but for now I’ve organized them into a box while I wait for the parts.
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Once that was sorted out, I had a look inside the rear end. The gears looked decent, not too dirty, and the bearings seemed tight, as far as I could tell. It wasn’t until I used my hand to scrape the bottom to see if there was any crud on there…
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Yeah, sludge at least an inch deep, with water and rust under it all. That needed to be cleaned out, starting by scooping it out by hand.
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There’s more, but that’s all I have time for tonight. I’ll post more soon.

PS—old gear oil smells like ass.
 
Oh, and here’s that twisted up piece of metal that was in there. It looks like the same material as the stamped clutch housing; I wonder if the PTO unit blew up at some point and was replaced, and whoever did it left that chunk in there by mistake—maybe hidden in the oil at the bottom. There were a few other little splinters in there too, but no major damage seen on the actual unit, which makes me think it was replaced.

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So anyway, I got a good deal on an old five gallon pail of parts cleaner at the parts store ($20) so I went to town on cleaning this rear end. Used a plastic brush and a spray bottle and it came out pretty well. Having the drain plug at the back helped flush it out.
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I also cleaned out the PTO housings and the hardware, as well as stripping the sealing flanges and chasing the threads on the nuts and studs.
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I also cleaned the sides of the case where the brakes install.
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Inspection of the cleaned out rear end found a few shipped teeth, but there doesn’t seem to be any play in the bearings, which is good. I didn’t intend to get into tearing the rear end apart; I would need to make or buy the necessary stands, lifts and dollys to split it safely if were to go that far. As long as I find nothing major wrong, it’ll be getting a good clean out and about 20L of fresh 80w90 gear oil. The chipped teeth are pretty normal; I never heard any noises when I drove it so I won’t lose sleep over it.
Here are a few of the chips.
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Hopefully I don’t find anything bad in the transmission when I finally take look. The shift tower has to come off to see in there.

Anyway, I also got the brake seal housings with the new seals installed. As I said, there were shims on them, which are used to locate and set preload on the differential. I kept track of where they came from, however I didn’t have new gaskets (what add to the shim thickness) so I just cut some new ones out of a cereal box.

The old gaskets were .015” thick and the homemade ones were .018”, so I took .003” out of each side to make up the difference. As far as gasket crush goes, I figure there’s probably a bit of wear in that unit after seven decades so it being a bit tighter won’t hurt. The Cockshutt 30 repair manual doesn’t give any backlash specs, but I will bring my dial indicator home from work to double check it anyway. Other brands like Farmalls were usually in the .008”-.012” range, so I’ll just use that spec. It shouldn’t have changed much anyway since I put it all back the same.

Installed with a bit of Ultra Black; no torque specs so I went to 70 ft-lbs with the bolts. Part of me wishes I’d installed it dry for now in case I have to adjust it by moving some shims around, but we’ll cross that bridge later.
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Anyway, aside from that, I’ve wrapped the front end up and have started stripping the rear end. I’ll pick away at that when I have time to kill—it’s not like I can paint right now anyway. No heat in here!
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Lastly, I found something interesting while stripping the bottom of the PTO housing. This is a glimpse of the tractor’s original condition showing through:
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No original red paint left, just rust and pits. The previous owner missed/couldn’t reach this spot when he slapped a coat of red on top, using what was obviously a paint brush.

That’s all for now. I’ll be back when I have something interesting to add.
 
Glad to see your making progress. I like the attention to detail. I know, I said that before.

I would not worry about those teeth. They shouldn't affect anything.

Thanks for taking us along for the restoration and modification.
 
After waiting for the bearings for the PTO to arrive via the slowest shipping ever, I was finally able to put the unit back together. The reassembly took place two weeks ago, and last night I finally got it mounted back onto the tractor, which couldn’t happen until I stripped the paint from around the axle tube nuts first. More on that later.

First off, the case needed to be stripped of old paint and rust—easier said than done.
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Ready for assembly. (This was before the bearings had arrived.)
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Next, we machined a new ring for the clutch lever, since the old one was broken in half. I think it was 4140 he used, which is a little tougher than the original. It installs like this, locking the fork to the shaft with a keyway, using a bolt through the ring to pinch it all together.
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Next is to install new seals for the lever. I got these on ebay, based on dimensions of the old ones.
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Then the lever installs in the case, fastening the fork after, of course. The pinch bolt has holes through the head so mechanic’s wire can be threaded through and tied to lock it in place.
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Then I moved onto the unit internals. New races were installed into the case (one of which is not pressed tight, but rather is preloaded using shims on the output cover/seal housing) and then the new Timken tapered bearings were pressed onto the shaft. The unit is filled with 80w90 oil and is splash lubricated, but I don’t know how quickly the oil is distributed so I went ahead and packed the bearings with grease so they don’t start out dry.
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Then the input shaft is installed into the inner case, which makes things awkward because the unit has to hang over the edge of the workbench to sit flat. The new bearing was installed first, of course, which I got on ebay—new old stock, listed as fitting the mainshaft on old Studebakers and Chevys.
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On the other side, the input gear is pressed onto the shaft with a woodruff key and a snap ring. In the adjacent bore, you can see the clutch shaft bearing installed.
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Next, the clutch input gear is set in place. The collar on top is splined internally to the clutch shaft, and the outside is smooth to allow the clutch hub to freewheel while the clutch is unlocked.
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Then the clutch plate goes on, note that collar with the smooth outside is placed in the center. On the bottom of this plate is a gear that is fixed in place. It drives the large output gear when the clutch is engaged and, as said, will freewheel on that collar when the clutch is disengaged.
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Here are the clutch discs, very similar to an automatic transmission clutch pack.
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They stack on top of the plate, with the three-footed spider in the middle. The spider is splined internally along with that collar underneath, and is driven by the input gear.
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Here is the input shaft installed, which goes through the middle and its pilot fits snugly into the center of the ball bearing in the case. As you can see, the output shaft with the large gear is in place as well. I’m not sure why only it has tapered bearings; I assume a PTO driven implement might push or pull when the tractor is moving so it needs the ability to hold up to thrust forces. I don’t know why the clutch shaft has ball bearings, since it sees a lot of thrust when the lever is pulled to engage the clutch.
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The pressure plate bolts on next, along with the engagement bearing, which has the two fingers that the lever fork grabs onto. When you pull the lever, the fork shoves the bearing forward and the three dogs snap over-center to hold the pressure plate engaged. The three tabs on the steel discs are tabbed to this section, so when the clutch is engaged everything is locked together and that gear in the bottom of the clutch plate drives the output gear.
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There is a lot of leverage needed to engage this unit, which is why that ring tends to break. As said, we used a tougher steel to make the new one, but if needed the slot in the lever shaft could be cut longer to use a longer key, but we decided to keep it original because I don’t anticipate this tractor doing a lot of PTO work anyway. As long as it functions, I’m fine with that for now.

Anyway, here is a short video clip of the unit turning:
Cockshutt 30 PTO Assembly

So here is the outer case installed. You have to swing the lever just right to get the fork to grab onto the pins on the engagement bearing as you drop it on, but otherwise it’s pretty straightforward. The ball bearing for the other end of the clutch shaft installs at this point; notice the gap around end of the shaft. The cover plates then hold the bearings in place.
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In reality, the case was on and off a few times to check function before permanent installation. It was then sealed using Ultra-Black gasket maker, aside from the output seal housing, which requires the gasket along with the shims to properly preload the tapered bearings on the output shaft. The seal is a triple-lipped leather assembly that had to be soaked overnight before installation.
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It was then ready to be installed onto the tractor, but some cleaning needed to be done first, which I will cover in the next post.
 
Looks like you moving along nicely.

What did you use to clean the paint and rust off? I am guessing a wire wheel?

The clutch looks like a wet clutch. The clutch disc's do resemble an auto transmission. Just like the clutch packs in my case power shift transmission.
 
Moving on, I’ve been working on stripping the rear end of the tractor.

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The nuts around the axle tubes have been a pain to clean around. What I’ve ended up doing is removing them one at a time to clean around them. Sometimes the stud comes out too, which makes it easier to get that pocket stripped out, except the bolt holes aren’t blind, so I have to be careful of debris getting into the gear housing. This is why I had to finish this job before installing the PTO unit, because I wanted access to make sure I didn’t get dust/wire bits/rust into the rear end, and to clean it out if I did.

What I would do if the stud came out was vacuum the hole first, then I would plug the hole with a cut off bolt that I cut a slot in so I could thread it in/out with a screwdriver.
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After the pocket was clean, I removed the plug, brake cleaned the hole and applied thread sealer to the stud (which was wire-wheeled clean) before reinstalling to 150 ft-lbs.
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There were fourteen of these to do. Major pain in the rear, but doable.
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I’ll continue on with stripping the axle tubes next, and eventually the transmission housing and gear shift tower, and with warm weather approaching I might have the whole chassis painted before too long.

Anyway, last night I got the PTO housing reinstalled.
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I’ll see you all in a bit when there’s more to show. I’m really itching to get the TDI dropped in, but the machine work is still on hold for now.
 
Looks like you moving along nicely.

What did you use to clean the paint and rust off? I am guessing a wire wheel?

The clutch looks like a wet clutch. The clutch disc's do resemble an auto transmission. Just like the clutch packs in my case power shift transmission.

Yes, I use a combination of wire wheels on an electric angle grinder and a drill, plus small carbide burrs on a Dremel for the little corners. I’ve sandblasted some parts too, but I’m limited on using that. I only sandblast outside in the backyard since I don’t have a booth to contain the debris, so big items like the chassis are a no-go. (Not to mention the sand is notorious for getting inside of gear housings.)

And you’re right, it is a wet clutch. Used with 80w90 oil. Those discs were actually Raybestos branded; I meant to get a picture of the name stamp and write down the part number, but I forgot. Too late now, I guess—although I just noticed you can see some of it in one of the pictures in the post from this morning.
 
I'm curious about the turbo change on the truck.Just a wild guess that it might involve an he351cw turbine housing ?

Plenty of surprises with gear teeth on the tractor I see. Mostly cosmetic.
 
I'm curious about the turbo change on the truck.Just a wild guess that it might involve an he351cw turbine housing ?

Plenty of surprises with gear teeth on the tractor I see. Mostly cosmetic.

I do have a 351 housing on the bench, but it was for a project a few years back that I never finished. It’s not a genuine Holset housing, just an ebay knockoff. I’m gonna be tight-lipped on this new turbo project until it’s done, and I’ll be sure to post a pic of it when that time comes.

It won’t be a huge power upgrade to what I have now; it was mainly just a personal challenge to see if I could make it fit using this particular arrangement.

Some days I wish I didn’t have this tractor in the garage here, because building a turbo setup in the driveway during winter kinda sucks.
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Yes, I use a combination of wire wheels on an electric angle grinder and a drill, plus small carbide burrs on a Dremel for the little corners. I’ve sandblasted some parts too, but I’m limited on using that. I only sandblast outside in the backyard since I don’t have a booth to contain the debris, so big items like the chassis are a no-go. (Not to mention the sand is notorious for getting inside of gear housings.)

And you’re right, it is a wet clutch. Used with 80w90 oil. Those discs were actually Raybestos branded; I meant to get a picture of the name stamp and write down the part number, but I forgot. Too late now, I guess—although I just noticed you can see some of it in one of the pictures in the post from this morning.

Okay, that's a good way to do it if you can't use a sand blaster. It's a lot of work, but it generally always turns out good. Have you ever used a needle scaler for doing this kind of work? What your doing looks nice.

Well that's a common clutch friction plate manufacturer.
 
I’ve looked at scalers, but never tried one. Might work well on some of the pitted areas.
 
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