2.6 engine build. Questions/suggestions

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widieseltech

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Jan 21, 2013
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Ok guys I'm in the middle of building a motor for my 2.6 truck and have a good base plan going as far as the motor goes, over the course of this build Ive been doing a lot of research and talking with other pullers on build suggestions. So I will list what i have thus far and what questions/ suggestions below. HP Goals are 1100+ Plan to turn 4500-5000 RPM

Engine
12v filled block
standard bore
Carillo Rods
Scheid Built Arias 14:1 compression pistons
DLC coated billet Wrist Pins
No Limits 233/249 cam .376in .372ex 106 LSA
Hamilton Billet Tappets
14mm main studs
Adjustable Timing Gear
Motor is all Balanced
Hamilton Comp push Tubes
stock rockers
P-pump to be determined 13mm of some sort
Have a set of 5x25 single feeds ill be starting with.
Frozen Boost type 22 W2A
Turbo will be the last things purchased base off next years rules, But thinking HX60 based 2.6

Head is kinda up in the air
Thinking stock head, with upgraded valve springs, keepers, Intake cut and machined for runner intake. Not sure what i wanna do for porting, valve seats and valves yet. suggestions? Also open to sending the head some where for port work depending on cost.

What LBS valve springs are you guys running? Dual springs?
Also on a filled block and head motor is there a need for fire ringing the head? or is a factory cummins gasket and studs enough?

Have Waterman pump I'll be running seen some adapters that fit in where the vac/power steering pumps went to drive it. how else are people running these? is it necessary to have a 3 way valve? suggestions on plumbing? I will be running a 3 gal fuel cell on back side of weight box.

Is the stock oil pump, good enough on volume and pressure or should i be looking into something else?

any suggestion on setup would be great. biggest gray area for me is waterman setup since I've never ran one before and cylinder head as I don't have an unlimited budget to spend on the head.

Thanks in advance guys!
 
2.6 is wicked competitive now, do you plan on being a top runner or are you okay with being mid-pack
 
this is a starting point. I plan to be a front runner and know what it takes to compete in my area? i understand 2.6 is pretty competitive down south but you gotta start somewhere. plus the bottom end will hold plenty of power for later on.
 
Waterman is simple if your front cover has the mount. Buy a weld on hub drive and weld to the snout of the ps pump. Fire rings highly recommended, or at least oring it. Filled block and head plan for a pit vehicle also.
 
2.6

SledPuller21 said:
Waterman is simple if your front cover has the mount. Buy a weld on hub drive and weld to the snout of the ps pump. Fire rings highly recommended, or at least oring it. Filled block and head plan for a pit vehicle also.
Click to expand...

My cover has mount for waterman and I have a pit vehicle set to go already. are you still leaving the ps pump gear attached to the pump to make it ride true? or is there a way to do it with out the power steering pump? I'd rather not have the pump on the truck and I'm running hydraulic steering
 
Ditch the carillo rods if you are only making 1100 hp. If you already have them, good for you its insurance.

Check your rules, 3 way valves are a saftey regulation most places, and a good idea to have with an ag pump. They will stick!

If running stock valves dont worry about dual springs, the Cummins 60 lb springs actually work well, Jeremy Denson claims to run them in his 3.6 truck.

Where are you located? that will help a lot to determine how you need to build your truck.
 
Sorry to get off the topic, but does any of you guys running a waterman keep the cover over the power steering pump gear, and want to get rid of it?
 
2.6

bigstacks95 said:
Ditch the carillo rods if you are only making 1100 hp. If you already have them, good for you its insurance.

Check your rules, 3 way valves are a saftey regulation most places, and a good idea to have with an ag pump. They will stick!

If running stock valves dont worry about dual springs, the Cummins 60 lb springs actually work well, Jeremy Denson claims to run them in his 3.6 truck.

Where are you located? that will help a lot to determine how you need to build your truck.
Click to expand...

Rods I already have the 1100 hp was a very conservative goal for me I am hoping to be more in the 1300-1500 range once all the bugs are worked out. I'm building the bottom end to handle more, so I can turn it up in the future.
So the 3 way is a safety valve to shut fuel off to the injection pump? operated my a manual cable?
I'm in Wisconsin, plan on running badger state and southwest. they pretty much follow PPL Rules.
 
yes it is a manual cable actuated fuel shut off, that redirects the fuel back to the fuel cell.
 
awesome thanks for all the constructive ideas guys. I was planning on running a dual spring on the stock head having it ported and polished, runner intake. then maybe step up to oversized valves and or a Hamilton head after a season. will see what kind of deals I come across and what the budget allows
 
widieseltech said:
My cover has mount for waterman and I have a pit vehicle set to go already. are you still leaving the ps pump gear attached to the pump to make it ride true? or is there a way to do it with out the power steering pump? I'd rather not have the pump on the truck and I'm running hydraulic steering
Click to expand...

I got one of the Cummins hydraulic pump adapters and welded a 3/8 socket into the end of it. Made a plate to cover the back and fed it with oil. Cheap way to ditch all that extra crap that I don't need. I found mine on ebay for like 75 bucks.
 
When mounting your 3 way valve, the closer to the injection pump, the better. If you are running a spin on fuel filter, make sure the 3 way valve is mounted after the filter.
 
widieseltech said:
My cover has mount for waterman and I have a pit vehicle set to go already. are you still leaving the ps pump gear attached to the pump to make it ride true? or is there a way to do it with out the power steering pump? I'd rather not have the pump on the truck and I'm running hydraulic steering
Click to expand...

On trucks running hydraulic steering and no water injection, we take the powersteering pump off the vacuum pump, gut the vacuum pump, and then tig a cover over the hole where the shaft goes. Pretty much turns into just a bearing housing for the waterman.
 
SledPuller21 said:
On trucks running hydraulic steering and no water injection, we take the powersteering pump off the vacuum pump, gut the vacuum pump, and then tig a cover over the hole where the shaft goes. Pretty much turns into just a bearing housing for the waterman.
Click to expand...

same here.
 
We use a 4bt power steering pump and welded an arp 3/8 drive into the center (with the threads cut off it presses in almost perfect). A lot ways to do the same thing.
 
I will prob use the hydraulic adaptor or I know last time I talk to Jeremy denson he had an adapter he made and sold them I be leave.

What are you guys using for head gaskets I was planing on fire ringing the head and leaving the block be. Are the head gaskets from haisley good to use? I know I've heard of guys just using a copper headgasket on filled blocks
 
When I did it, it was suggested doing only the block if you have it available. Several reasons for them to do it that way. I had Keating Machine do mine and have used his gasket set ever since and yet to have one fail. I have used the haisley kit on some other builds and they're the same thing. We did try using a copper gasket on a filled block/wet head combo and it leaked with the ring ring setup we had been using. There's a certain ring protrusion necessary for it to seal just right. So my answer is fire ring.
 
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