2146 w/Ohm Reading... Help!!

Bosshawg600

Bosshawg600

PDP.com FireFighter
Joined
Aug 3, 2006
Messages
3,651
So ive had a few small stutters with my truck lately and last night it went into turd mode and almost left me stranded..... No power at all and got hot, fast!

Pulled the codes and had a 2146. Dug in a little deeper thinking it might just be the VC harness and went ahead and Ohm'd the injectors, heres the results....

1-6 injectors post to post all read 2.2ohm
1,2,4,5 read Mega or Killi Ohm from each post to injector body
3,6 were open Post-body but were still reading 2.2 ohm post to post.

Weird part is, go it home in turd mode last night, starting it this morning to pull it in the driveway to do all my checks and it runs fine!!!

Are all 6 injector solenoids bad, or am I looking at a deeper problem?!?!?!
 
My findings with solenoid problems is that they tend to show up when the truck is hot and driven for a length of time, at least 30 min is what it took for me.

When I ohmed them cold they all checked out fine. Checked them hot and one was out of spec.
 
rockjeep73 said:
My findings with solenoid problems is that they tend to show up when the truck is hot and driven for a length of time, at least 30 min is what it took for me.

When I ohmed them cold they all checked out fine. Checked them hot and one was out of spec.
Click to expand...

These were all measured cold. I was fiddling with the programming last night when I was trying to get it going and the only thing that helped was going to stock.... but ran for maybe 5min and went bad again.

From what Ive read, they should read OP post-body and <1ohm post-post..... All were at 2.2ohm. I can try hot and see what the change is.

Mark Nixon said:
"Turd Mode"! :hehe:


Mark.
Click to expand...

When it cant even pull itself over the hump in a raod and fogs for bugs while trying.... Thats turd mode!!!


Big question is, can I replace all the solenoids or do I just need to pop out the injectors and send them in to be rebuilt???
 
Last edited:
Did you replace the injector harness? a bad harness will kill an injector solenoid.
I also love the turd mode!
 
Bosshawg600 said:
These were all measured cold. I was fiddling with the programming last night when I was trying to get it going and the only thing that helped was going to stock.... but ran for maybe 5min and went bad again.

From what Ive read, they should read OP post-body and <1ohm post-post..... All were at 2.2ohm. I can try hot and see what the change is.



When it cant even pull itself over the hump in a raod and fogs for bugs while trying.... Thats turd mode!!!


Big question is, can I replace all the solenoids or do I just need to pop out the injectors and send them in to be rebuilt???
Click to expand...

Check your meter too. When measuring small impedances like that you need to add the resistance of the test cables and meter to the impedance of the subject... short your test leads together and measure the impedance, ideally it should be 0 (Zero) ohms, but it could be close to an ohm or more. Then when measuring the solenoid subtract the test lead impedance from your measurement to get the true reading of the solenoid.
 
dangerous06 said:
Did you replace the injector harness? a bad harness will kill an injector solenoid.
I also love the turd mode!
Click to expand...

I didnt. I found a brokne wire at my top CP3 FCA that I replaced and fixed my problem. I checked the VC harness and it looked good and metered that a while back and it was good too.

Chris Tobin said:
Check your meter too. When measuring small impedances like that you need to add the resistance of the test cables and meter to the impedance of the subject... short your test leads together and measure the impedance, ideally it should be 0 (Zero) ohms, but it could be close to an ohm or more. Then when measuring the solenoid subtract the test lead impedance from your measurement to get the true reading of the solenoid.
Click to expand...

Ill double check my meter tonight, but its calibration should be up to date. I used one from work and they are calibrated pretty often... and this isnt a cheapo meter, although i can see that double checking the leads can be a good idea on this!
 
Tested the leads and they are a flat 0.......

Does anyone know if Solenoids can be swapped out while still in the truck!?!?!
 
Bosshawg600 said:
Tested the leads and they are a flat 0.......

Does anyone know if Solenoids can be swapped out while still in the truck!?!?!
Click to expand...

Sure can use the proper or close socket turn replace repeat! BUT you do have to remove the rockers! Oh and you have to time "Align" the studs so they line up when tight. Be sure the spring is in the hole!
If you have 1,2 ohm's resistance even 3 they are good to go!
 
dangerous06 said:
Sure can use the proper or close socket turn replace repeat! BUT you do have to remove the rockers! Oh and you have to time "Align" the studs so they line up when tight. Be sure the spring is in the hole!
If you have 1,2 ohm's resistance even 3 they are good to go!
Click to expand...

I thought .5 was ideal and anything over 1 was bad!?!?!?!

I ran the smarty down to stock, unplugged my power puck and it runs fine, no studder, no turd mode.... Like it never had a problem.... Maybe just doesnt like the higher settings.....
 
Last edited:
Bosshawg600 said:
I thought .5 was ideal and anything over 1 was bad!?!?!?!

I ran the smarty down to stock, unplugged my power puck and it runs fine, no studder, no turd mode.... Like it never had a problem.... Maybe just doesnt like the higher settings.....
Click to expand...

I ment .2 .3 .4 .5 sorry Your leads may be .2 .3 just by themselves if it's a cheap meter!
 
dangerous06 said:
I ment .2 .3 .4 .5 sorry Your leads may be .2 .3 just by themselves if it's a cheap meter!
Click to expand...

Ok! Got ya! Check the leads on itself and another meter and they are fine. guess Im just limping along, but its running fine right now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top