241 to 271 conversion

lcaad1249

lcaad1249

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Jun 6, 2007
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I'm thinking about upgrading my '99. It was setup with a 241DHD. Since I need to get one anyways I thought about getting one that I won't have to worry about, the 271. The truck has a 47re. What do I need to look for or what did the transfer originally come out of?

I've searched to find out, but wanted to make sure before purchasing.
 
3rd Gen Dodges and Ford Super Dutys for starters. The Fords use a flange output rather than the slip yoke and you WILL have to change the input shaft and reset the pocket bearing depth because the Ford main shaft has a shorter nose on it. If you don't it makes it rather difficult to get in and out of 4lo and neutral. Don't ask me how I know....

Do the 99s still have a speed sensor on the transfer case? The 271 has no provision for it.
 
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Try shifting into 4lo sometime. It took me a couple weeks to figure it out.
 
Mine is electric, I'll let the little motor worry about it. LOL
 
Nice. HRDROCKN Has a thread on it on one of these forums entitled How To SYE your 271(or something to that effect) and mentions them being different depths.

Too bad I read it AFTER I had already done the swap.
 
I don't know if it matters to you (probably not if you're pulling with it), but theres no vacuum switch on the 271's to operate the CAD.
 
The shift plate still has the notches for a switch to be installed. The 271 has an electric switch and some 241s did as well. The electric switch from a 241 will screw into the hole on the 271. I'm thinking the vacuum switch will as well. Though I've heard the switch might need to be shimmed a bit to get it to work properly.
 
I bought my 271 from Transfer Case Express and had them build it with the Ford output flange. I wanted to eliminate the slip yoke. The 241 vacuum switch can be installed into the 271 transfer case. My light stays on all of the time, so I must need to shim it. I did cut out about 1" of material at the front of the opening on the LH side of the frame. This prevented any contact between the transfer case and the frame. Your truck should have speedo sensor from the rear axle, so you will be ok there. I took a measurement from the transfer case yoke to the carrier bearing and had the front half of the driveshaft made to those specs.
 
With my 6 speed I had to grind the frame. With the automatic it falls into the notch on the frame and no notching was required. I had to shim under the tranny mount otherwise the front drive shaft would hit the cross member.

I don't know if the shimming will work or not. My switch was broken before I did the swap and I never worried that much about it.
 
kazairl said:
The shift plate still has the notches for a switch to be installed. The 271 has an electric switch and some 241s did as well. The electric switch from a 241 will screw into the hole on the 271. I'm thinking the vacuum switch will as well. Though I've heard the switch might need to be shimmed a bit to get it to work properly.
Click to expand...

i think you need to switch the two vaccum hoses going to the cad. that is what i did and it works like factory. i got a 01 reg cab 6sp
 
pullin454 said:
i think you need to switch the two vaccum hoses going to the cad. that is what i did and it works like factory. i got a 01 reg cab 6sp
Click to expand...

Mine has a non-cad axle. They use an electric switch instead of a vacuum switch. But that is a good idea for those who do have one.

CaptainChrysler said:
I didn't do anything about it either. Dodge 29 spline gear in a ford 273. Haven't noticed any shifting problems.
Click to expand...

Huh. Switching inputs and the mainshaft are the 2 things I changed the last time I was into my transfer case. Ever since then it has been the absolute pits to shift in and out of 4lo. I have to jerk on the lever fairly hard to get it to shift.
 
You changed the mainshaft also? That could be something to do with it.
 
Whether you use the Dodge input in a Ford case or the Ford output in a Dodge case... you need to reset the pocket bearing on the Dodge input assembly. The pocket bearing keeps both components in alignment.

Dodge shaft which has a longer pilot bearing surface...

A011710-4.jpg


A011710-5.jpg



Here is the Dodge pocket bearing before and after...

A011801-4.jpg


A011810-7.jpg
 
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Well maybe I got lucky, and it's just catching. Have a lot of runs in 4 lo without any problems. Might have to take a look at that.
 
roachie said:
You changed the mainshaft also? That could be something to do with it.
Click to expand...

If you want to run a flanged output on the rear you have to use a Ford 271 main shaft.

Thanks HRDROKN for posting that. Hopefully it makes more sense now.
 
is there any such an animal as a 32 spline input for a 271/273?
 
Well I had a chance to tear into the 273 and have a look. This is a ford 273 with a dodge 29 spline input. The pocket bearing was riding on the very end of the mainshaft.

273-2.jpg


273-1.jpg


273-6.jpg


You can see where the bearing was running right on the end. As opposed to the original wear marks. Ended up driving the pocket bearing in around 0.440" to get it were it's supposed to be. You could do it without even tearing the case apart. Just reach in through the input and drive the bearing in farther.

It does not appear there was any damage, but has to be better with the bearing where it's supposed to be. Thanks for the heads up.

The planetary's are for sure steel in this thing. Someone was claiming they were aluminum. Maybe that's the dodge stuff?
 
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