241DLD to 241DHD

Bersaglieri

Bersaglieri

Ron Swanson's Brother
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
1,957
Well my 241DLD nearly left me stranded on my vacation trip from El Paso, TX to NE Ohio. I drove puckered while it clunked from Nashville, TN to Canton, OH. So I went to get parts for a rebuild [range fork/range sleeve] and the dealership says they can't get them until Monday and they are having issues making sure the parts are for sure the ones I need. Well I've got to leave next week so I can't be taking chances.

So, I started checking around town and the local guys have a 241DHD and 241DLD. I'm thinking it's time to upgrade to the 241DHD but it seems I'm seeing hit/miss info on whether or not the driveshafts need shorted or lengthened to use it.

The front driveshaft is a two piece so I figured it should be ok, that or I'll leave it out on the way home. The rear is two piece as well but the front half in one solid piece. I know I've got to measure it, but how many folks have actually done this and had to shorten it? Local driveshaft place said they will shorten and balance it for $80, plus cost of a U-joint or two... not to bad.

Anyone think I should just slap a DLD back in, make things easy, and keep a spare one for parts?

The DHD is from a 97, has the VSS, 23 spline trans side, the big output, and the PTO plate. Also includes the driveshaft yoke and is the same price as the DLD, $500.

The DHD sounds like a no brainer... any other things to get it to work other than driveshaft lengths? Linkage, etc?

-Dustin-
 
Hey Dustin

I have done this swap twice.

At first we installed 242DHD (with speedo sensor) to 97 2500 and with no modification was needed. Front and rear driveshaft remains from 242 DLD, but the rear yoke is very close to transfercase seal, linkage remains original

Second time I swap 242 DHD and '00 axles to my 98 , this time I used the 242DHD bouth driveshafts (front driveshaft yoke is different 98 and 00), linkage remains original.
 
I've got a dhd in my shortbox and I didn't shorten my drive-in

sent from my Droid Incredible 2 using tapatalk
 
Thanks Atross I was hunting for your number today, but was hoping you'd see the thread. Well that sounds promising since this one's got the same speed sensor and everything. Castings on the case show 96/97 years and it's on a Extended cab long bed. Atross, you're calling them 242's because of the speed sensor? Just curious since I never heard that.

If I can get away with swapping U joints I'd be one happy camper, the driveshaft guy is a little drive and my buddies beater sunfire smells funky. What are these 1480 joints I've seen folks talking about? Will they fit in stock driveshafts?

I went and got the 241DHD and the yoke today. We tore it down, double checked everything, and cleaned up the parts. Tomorrow we'll reassemble, install, and check the driveshafts. After having both apart I can see why the DHD is more desirable. Maybe I'll post up some pictures when I'm done to show what I'm taking about. Thicker chain, bigger shafts, extra output bearing, larger bearings, larger chain gears, stronger range sleeve/hub etc.

So much for this being a vacation trip :Cheer:

-Dustin-
 
1480's are the bigger factory Ujoints for the rear. Came on Dana 80 equiped trucks with sticks originally but I believe that the autos also started to get them later on. S&G the newer trucks run a 1550 joint.
 
Sorry ,You are correct the numbers should still be 241 not 242
 
I put a DLD and 02 47re in my 96 (after some VB wiring swapping) and the DLD drive shafts fit right into the DHD. No modification was needed but the rear was a bit closer to the rear seal, no issues yet.
 
Gasoline Sucks said:
I put a DLD and 02 47re in my 96 (after some VB wiring swapping) and the DLD drive shafts fit right into the DHD. No modification was needed but the rear was a bit closer to the rear seal, no issues yet.
Click to expand...

Well I've heard there are DHD's out there that have the small shafts that the yoke will slide right onto. This one needs the yoke changed for sure the shaft is huge! Yes, I said it, the SHAFT is huge! :hehe:

-Dustin-
 
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Looks like we'll be shorting the rear driveshaft. It probably wouldn't hurt to lengthen the front as well.

Rear:
If I push the yoke all the way into the transfer case [bottomed out on the output shaft support bearing] the holes on the carrier bearing is .75" off [too far rearward]. If I back the yoke out to a safer distance from the bearing the carrier mount holes are off around 1.5 inches. I thought about mounting a plate to move the carrier mount holes back but the splines in the center of the driveshaft [two piece] are .25-.50in from bottoming out. Not too good.

I'm thinking of just cutting down the yoke but I've got to go back out there and see if it's bottoming out in yoke or Tcase.


Front:
The front axle driveshaft will stretch to the transfer case, but it's 1.25" from the mounting without having to pull it up there. I could just leave it out for the trip, no a big deal.

-Dustin-
 
Update: Front half of rear driveshaft shortened 1.5". Front axle driveshaft had enough slack to make it to the transfer case without loosing any spline contact. Currently driving the truck around.

Big thanks to Stratton Chevrolet, Harley, and Youngstown Driveshaft. And of course the girlfriend who helped me tear down, build and install the transfer case.

-Dustin-
 
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