2nd gen into 1st gen

vinnysspeedshop

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May 9, 2013
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So I have a 91.5 first gen 5speed 4x4 rclb and have a line on a 97 rclb 4x4 auto. So what is all involved with putting the drive train out of the 2nd gen into my rust free first gen?
I think I need some type of crossmember for the auto out of a camaro of some kind?
Can I use the computer out of the second gen for the trans or do I need a stand alone controller or should I go with a manual reverse valve body? This truck will have around 800+hp so not sure which trans control option is best?
Any input on what I will need would be greatly appreciated
 
Engine is all bolt in... use your 1st gen engine mounts, your tranny crossmember is same... idk what to do on a re... i have a rh ... very easy swap
 
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You need to keep the 205 or try and flip the 241.

205 is passenger side driver
241 is driver side drive
 
Since you're running an automatic, if you really want to run a 241, run a 241D, passenger's side drop, from a 1988-1993 gasser.
You'll need a 1410 rear yoke and a different rear seal, but it should take the abuse.

Mark.
 
A 271 or the 241dhd that's already behind the 47re won't work or be modified to work? And I think I'm going 1480 for all the joints with .120 wall custom shafts. Needs to handle boosted launches and occasional sled pull
 
They can be made to work.
I'm under the impression you need to re-locate the oil pump, or it's pick-up, in either of the later cases.

Mark.
 
I have the 205 and the 241dhd from donor truck. Just want the strongest set up possible and from my reading the nv271 holds up best
 
I have the 205 and the 241dhd from donor truck. Just want the strongest set up possible and from my reading the nv271 holds up best
The NV271 holds up great, until you drop a shaft or have an impact on the case, then it explodes.
They are a very thin-cast case.

I've had the results of several mishaps and it's all or nothing, meaning once it starts coming apart, it doesn't stop.

Mark.
 
Sweet guess ill just keep that. So I gotta either change the input shaft or get a 23 to 29 spline coupler or a 29 spline output for trans if they make one
 
There's some things that you'll have to do to keep that 205 alive. One is girdle it 360°. Gears try to spread apart under power usually splits the case and drops the front output half on the ground. A stronger output shaft will be in order for the rear. There's some fellas making 300m shafts for the large bearings. Use a 32 spline front output. Some already have them. All the old divorced units had them. Back to the girdle... build a steel exoskeleton out of 3/8 flat stock about 4-5" wide. Basically wrap the thing in 2 halves. Build the halves about 1/2" short of each other and weld a 2x2 clip angles on each half. Use 2 5/8" bolts and tighten. That'll hold the case together.
 
There's some things that you'll have to do to keep that 205 alive. One is girdle it 360°. Gears try to spread apart under power usually splits the case and drops the front output half on the ground. A stronger output shaft will be in order for the rear. There's some fellas making 300m shafts for the large bearings. Use a 32 spline front output. Some already have them. All the old divorced units had them. Back to the girdle... build a steel exoskeleton out of 3/8 flat stock about 4-5" wide. Basically wrap the thing in 2 halves. Build the halves about 1/2" short of each other and weld a 2x2 clip angles on each half. Use 2 5/8" bolts and tighten. That'll hold the case together.

This is great info. So could you just get long piece of 5" wide flat stock and heat it and bend the one piece all the way around while welding it? Do you know who makes stronger parts for the 205?
 
I think Quad 4x4 sells a "new" heavy duty NP205 casting. From what I have seen, and heard they are much thicker castings then the originals.
 
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