4wd Suspension Setup questions & ideas

MCForstenRacing

MCForstenRacing

1/4 miles
Hey fellas just looking for some ideas upgrading the suspension, 4wd of course strictly drag racing shoot some ideas out there, best setups your thoughts.


Thanks Cole
 
Well, I'll give it a shot... Pinion angle= -3* I've heard is a sweet spot, Traction bars= shorter are better, you don't want to unload the front end too much, Strap the front end to control weight transfer. Rear shocks= stiff compression, soft rebound. Thats about all I think I know, anything else and I would be just BS'n.
 
a properly set-up coil-over 4-link in the rear would be awesome. there is a reason why many many fast cars/trucks out there go 4 linked for the strip. there might be some weight savings when ditching those heavy leafs also.
 
cbtoyz said:
Well, I'll give it a shot... Pinion angle= -3* I've heard is a sweet spot, Traction bars= shorter are better, you don't want to unload the front end too much, Strap the front end to control weight transfer. Rear shocks= stiff compression, soft rebound. Thats about all I think I know, anything else and I would be just BS'n.
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This is a good start, also the front shocks want a soft compression and stiff rebound. QA1's are a good shock for these applications, have dual control valves one for compressiona and the other for rebound. Suspension for a 4x4 if difficult to keep the weight where you need it, on the front. We chain the front of Max'd Out, straps stretched after the first couple of runs. Mind you I talking GM here, not dodge.
 
cbtoyz said:
Well, I'll give it a shot... Pinion angle= -3* I've heard is a sweet spot, Traction bars= shorter are better, you don't want to unload the front end too much, Strap the front end to control weight transfer. Rear shocks= stiff compression, soft rebound. Thats about all I think I know, anything else and I would be just BS'n.
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how tight are you strapping the front down? would this be a good idea with caltracs and all but the 2 leaves removed?
 
getblown5.9 said:
a properly set-up coil-over 4-link in the rear would be awesome. there is a reason why many many fast cars/trucks out there go 4 linked for the strip. there might be some weight savings when ditching those heavy leafs also.
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this is what im thinking as well, who or what company to contact for something of this nature??

best shocks out there?


strapping the front down how?
 
I know in 2wd's you want weight transfer to the rear to plant the tires, hence things like 90/10 drag shocks that let the front end rise quickly and settle back down slowly.

with a 4wd dont you still want that weight transfer? i dunno so maybe someone can help me understand. i just know that seeing the pics of Ms. Misery the 4wd outlaw 10.5 truck, it has a good bit of transfer tot he rear and almost looks like its gonna pull the front end as it launches.
 
E.T.'ing with 4WD seems to confuse most folks...
aside from ride height, what's the main difference from 2WD?

- Hundreds of lbs. of extra weight from solid axle, propeller shaft, T-case, etc. on an already-heavy front end... why wouldn't you want weight transfer to the still-light rear axle?

Straps or limiters on 4WDs pull weight out of the contact patch prematurely.
 
getblown5.9 said:
I know in 2wd's you want weight transfer to the rear to plant the tires, hence things like 90/10 drag shocks that let the front end rise quickly and settle back down slowly.

with a 4wd dont you still want that weight transfer? i dunno so maybe someone can help me understand. i just know that seeing the pics of Ms. Misery the 4wd outlaw 10.5 truck, it has a good bit of transfer tot he rear and almost looks like its gonna pull the front end as it launches.
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No you do not want transfer if you can help it, think about it, 2 wheel drive has all the drive on the rear, fast one use very wide slicks. 4 wheel drive uses all 4 wheels, tires are normally much skinner than what is used on 2 wheel. If you pick up the front end you are losing a bunch of your traction, way more than 50% due to most of the weight being on the front end. Same with pullers, where do they hang the weight?
 
XLR8R said:
E.T.'ing with 4WD seems to confuse most folks...
aside from ride height, what's the main difference from 2WD?

- Hundreds of lbs. of extra weight from solid axle, propeller shaft, T-case, etc. on an already-heavy front end... why wouldn't you want weight transfer to the still-light rear axle?

Straps or limiters on 4WDs pull weight out of the contact patch prematurely.
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you have obviously never drag raced a fast 4 wheel drive, weight transfer is the last thing you want.
 
24VCummns98 said:
so what would be the optimal way on avoiding or reducing weight transfer?
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Pretty much what has been in addition to a very well set up 4 link suspension. And I know notta about them. Need to talk to someone like Dale Smith. His 4 wheel dodge flies. I saw it run a 9.3 on #2 in Bowling Green on the 24th of Oct on a slick track.
 
Where's Dennis Perry at? He should have a good idea on how to get traction with their race truck, they have been racing that truck for quite a few years and it seems to rip out of the hole hard
 
Subman631 said:
If you pick up the front end you are losing a bunch of your traction, way more than 50% due to most of the weight being on the front end. Same with pullers, where do they hang the weight?
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Actually, you don't "lose" any traction - you only choose how to divide it between all 4 corners... don't forget that we're running open front diffs.

Pointless to compare sled-pulling traction issues with drag racing needs... very different. :banghead:

Subman631 said:
you have obviously never drag raced a fast 4 wheel drive, weight transfer is the last thing you want.
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:hehe:
We dial-in the chassis & suspension for weight transfer until the rear tires stop breaking traction before the front does.;)
 
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