6.0 advice

5

5.9shaker

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I got a buddy who bought a 04 6.0 its a nice ttuck but had to have the top end rebuilt due to a previous owner doing bad work. All work done at ford stealership. He is wanting to make it reliable and have some added power. Can any one tell me what we need to change or upgrade. I know for sure a egr delete kit and head studs. But what else? The plan is a sct tuner or livewire havent decided yet. Along with a cold air intake, blue spring,6.4 banjo bolts. Also looking at a mtw powermax turbo. Can any o e explain what the bullet proof kit is and or consist of? Any ideas or opinions would be greatly appreciated. The truck tows daily but. Othen super heavy under 5000 pounds.
 
Upgraded oil cooler is a must, test the ficm to make sure its still strong, cfm intake elbow, coolant filter kit. With the powermax custom tunes will be a must to get the turbo to spool to its potential. Downpipe back exhaust. 155cc injector nozzles are a great match for the powermax, makes the pmax hit alot harder than stock sticks. If hes adding the turbo, custom tunes I would recommend a HD torque converter and shift solenoid kit to make it reliable (if he does the nozzles he will def need these) if not a mild build for the trans. Some type of gauges for sure to keep an eye on things.. turbo, pyro and trans of course (the trans temp gauge on the dash is a dummy gauge, mine would show almost full temp on the dash and be just at 100 degrees on my pillar gauge). Scangauge II is great for monitoring temps like EOT and ECT, it also tells you stuff like vgt activity, duty cycles etc., pretty cool little gauge and its cheap. I had an aidog 150 and regulated return, never had to worry about fuel. Basically everything I just listed was my old setup and the thing would hurt built trans tuned dmax's and modded cummins 0-60. Also, I towed a T250 bobcat with this setup, EGT's never went about 1250-1300 getting on it. Good luck and do it right the first time.
 
If he wants to stay as reliable as possible. Head studs and make sure the heads are flat. Egr delete, oil cooler and SCT with custom tunes and call it a day. A cts would be a definite plus. After that reliability gets sketchy.
 
^^ What bad moose said, better hope the dealer checked/milled the heads otherwise those studs dont mean ****. With regards to the transmission reliability beyond what you stated I agree. As for the 6.0 it is very capable of a reliable 550-600hp with powermax turbo, 155cc injectors up to 175cc (depending on how you drive) and a complete fuel system. If your not doing anything to the trans I recommend Gearhead tuning for their shifting. My innovative tunes were harsh on my stock tranny (trans went when i was on one of my innovative tunes.. dont know if that was a coincidence or not) Once I got it built though it was a toss up between the two.. I liked the innovative race tune and the gearhead srl+.
 
After pricing some parts he gave me a goal of 5 to 550hp fun driver I feel its very capable to do this. I question the ford quality of work I am awaiting on the bill to review all work performed. I am not a ford guy so this is a new area for me, with that being said. If the heads are good and the block is good will the stock head gasket survive with studs? Arp studs or h11? I seen some aftermarket head gaskets are they worth it? As for fuel supply will a fass or air dog be needed to keep up? As for now for sure on studs, sct tuner with tunes, blue spring and banjo bolts, powermax turbo also will be looking at cold air intakes, and injectors who has good quality at good prices probaly a 155cc injectors. At what point will valave springs and push tubes be needed? Will the hipressure oil pump support them? As for tranny probaly do a 3 disk convertor with a vb.
 
Stock hpop will support 155cc injectors with ease. I really like 6.0 injectors from elite. A little more money than some others but I think its worth it. Stay away from aftermarket head gaskets like the black onyx. Factory ford gaskets are the best. Although not the stock ones in the truck now. You will deffinitly want to pull heads. 9 times out of 10 they need to be decked and have some cracked valve seats. Airdog or fass always good
 
Ok thanks cityredneck. There is no known issues currently with the head gaskets. They have new ford oe gaskets when the top end was done.
 
I tried searching but had no luck. I know ether the cab or motor has to be moved to get the head studs in and old bolts out. How far will it have to be lifted to get them changed? I read something about heater box removel helps? Can some one shed a little light on this procedure. Thanks so far for all the help
 
You can do studs without removing the cab or engine. Use only stock head gaskets. No need for trans upgrades at that power level. Oil cooler, egr delete. After that the 6.0 is more reliable than most people think.

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strokethis_06 said:
You can do studs without removing the cab or engine. Use only stock head gaskets. No need for trans upgrades at that power level. Oil cooler, egr delete. After that the 6.0 is more reliable than most people think.

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Please do tell how to do the studs with removing the cab or engine?
 
Pull heater box and passenger side is wide open. Driver side back bottom bolt is the issue. Slide it out until it hits the firewall. Put a zip tie around it to hold it there. Cut the head off with a die grinder. Remove the rest of the bolt. Stud will go in because it don't have a head. Some trucks you have to dent the firewall a little to get the torque wrench on.

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6 bolts inside. Up under the dash. You will have to drop the glove box down to get the top 3. They are studs with nuts. Take an 11 mm deep socket and some extensions.
 
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