6.0 studs

H

hot rod4

New member
Joined
Jan 8, 2009
Messages
80
Just curious but doing my first set of in cab head studs, is a re-torque necessary with these? I know most cummins guys do after 500mi. but re-torquing these are a little more involved.
 
I did mine , only because I didn't go high enough the first time ! Need LOTS of room to get the factory bolts out and studs in. Heater box will not be your friend.
 
unbolt the motor mounts and trans mount. MAKE sure to put a block of wood between the jack and oil pan lift the engine up as for as you can go and work the bolts out they can be a pia but will make it easier to do you may have to do the same on driver side. I always tourque the nuts to 240 ftlbs you will not have to re tourque them.
 
For anyone who reads this in the future. It went smooth except that I bent two pushrods. I should have spun the engine by hand after the head bolts were torqued but did not. They are easy to install incorrectly and once started you will have misfires. :nail:
 
common issue is hydraulic lifter fully extends when pushrod is removed. if it cocks a bit internally, or simply doesn't drain down, its like the valve is set WAY too tight. this results in piston to valve contact, the pushrod tends to be the weak link. you can either roll the engine 2 or more turns by hand, or whack each pushrod with a mallet after torqueing down the valve bridge. either way ensures lifter isn't bound up
 
nitrogen said:
common issue is hydraulic lifter fully extends when pushrod is removed. if it cocks a bit internally, or simply doesn't drain down, its like the valve is set WAY too tight. this results in piston to valve contact, the pushrod tends to be the weak link. you can either roll the engine 2 or more turns by hand, or whack each pushrod with a mallet after torqueing down the valve bridge. either way ensures lifter isn't bound up
Click to expand...



Glad you posted this. We were putting my dually back together and were about to start buttoning everything up. I told 'em to turn the motor over by hand and found out we were about to have the same issue. LOL

.
 
I've done many 6L head gaskets and never had an issue with lifters. This is good info though so I'll keep a look out for it in the future.
 
Only has to happen once. ESP if the valve takes a hit and bends. Glad it saved you.
 
I'm doing mine in cab
It's cake
55a5261f.jpg

6f622fad.jpg
 
its either 210- or 215 ft lbs now no longer 240... Ive done more then 40 less then 50 stud jobs..

pull the evap box out of there.. and beat the fire wall back on the drivers side where the last bottom bolt is. ( depending on how big your tq wrench head is)
 
Call ARP and ask what you are doing to the stud by going to 255. What lube you using?
 
My problem I believe is that the pushrod did not slide straight down and went to one side or the other..I guess. I just did another job at work and took more time when installing the pushrods and it went smooth.

I found that there was no need to dent firewalls just to remove half of the plastic case on the evap box. Remove the heat shielding and its like 6 small screws and it seperates. This prevents the need to recover but requires care that you do not poke a hole in it. I have a Matco 1/2 rachet I broke them loose with and a Snap On Tech Wrench to torque. I also have the bracket to lift the head at the correct angle from Ford which really helped.

The ARP studs instructed 210ftlbs so that what I went to.

Now I want one of these F series to drop my Cummins in....
 
When you boost more than spec
More like leave the oem FOMOCO
More torque is required trust me.

I use to split evap box F-that it's more of hasstle it's just 4 11mms in the cab to remove evap box
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top