6.7 crankshaft in 5.9??

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NJ_24V

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May 1, 2019
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Hello,
I am wondering if the 6.7 crankshaft will fit a 98 24v block and/or what mods would be necessary for fitment. I know people are putting them in the 03 and up 5.9s but couldnt find anything on putting them in the 98.5-02 5.9. I'm assuming it would fit but if anyone could tell me for sure I'd appreciate it
 
It will fit fine, you will have to shave the pistons to deal with the extra stroke, stock rods will clear but I have had to notch cylinders with aftermarket ones.
 
Does your engine currently have a crank sensor? If so you won’t have the time ring on the 6.7 crankshaft
 
@smoken02 well I dont need a whole new engine, but my piston rings are going. And it would be cheaper for me to do a full build on my 5.9 than buy a running 6.7 with the harness and ecm. So I'm thinking just stick to the 5.9
 
@YoungDiesel27 yes my block has the crank sensor. Would there be away to get around that?
 
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NJ_24V said:
@YoungDiesel27 yes my block has the crank sensor. Would there be away to get around that?
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I’ve done one where we just converted it over to cam/combo wiring, cam gear and ECM but the dash didn’t get along. Ours was not a street truck so it didn’t matter. Issue with the early engines is there is no precision for the tone wheel on the 6.7 crank
 
NJ_24V said:
@smoken02 well I dont need a whole new engine, but my piston rings are going. And it would be cheaper for me to do a full build on my 5.9 than buy a running 6.7 with the harness and ecm. So I'm thinking just stick to the 5.9
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I’d say that’s your best bet. $.02. If this is just a street truck play toy I think being able to say you have a 6.7 crank is about the most you’ll get out of it. Especially on a vp truck.
 
@smokin02 I am keeping it a vp street truck, but I figured if it was easy enough to do the crank swap and squeeze out some more torque then why not.
 
@YoungDiesel27 what about relocating the crank sensor and using a fluid damper with a built on tone ring?!
 
@95cummins5.9 I know the front gear is different I just didn't know about block provisions
 
NJ_24V said:
@YoungDiesel27 what about relocating the crank sensor and using a fluid damper with a built on tone ring?!
Click to expand...

Guess it would be easy enough to machine and add the factory wheel to the damper, then make a bracket and extend the wiring harness
 
@YoungDiesel27 guess if iwant to do the swap I'll have to take some time and mess with it
 
How much needs shaved off the pistons? How much is left between top of piston and first ring?
 
I say if you want to do it then do it, you pick up a little displacement and go ahead and do some other upgrades. Port the head a little with some better valves etc. people forget we need this stuff to continue or their wont be anything left.
 
So I’m looking at doing this on my 12v. I already have my complete rebuild kit with .020” over 286210 pistons estimating 16.5:1 compression ratio. My plan is to run a .020” over head gasket as well and take minimal material off the deck but a decent amount off the head to help unshroud the valves. I’m hoping with the .020” over head gasket i will only have to take .060” off the pistons or maybe even less. I will measure piston protrusion and set the quench height to .025-.030” by machining the pistons accordingly. I believe i will be fine on the compression side of things, my main concern is valve clearance as i would like to take as much off the head as possible (unless someone advises against that). Right now i am running the stock cam and honestly don’t know if i will ever change that.
 
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