7/16 Push rod clearancing???

Runninlean

Say When racing
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Jul 28, 2010
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So this has been bothering me from a conversation I had last week.

I had requested a set of 7/16 push rods for my latest build (05 CR). I was under the impression it was also what I paid for when I ordered several parts. However a lot more back ground to this story but not really the point.

I received a set of 3/8 .083 wall push rods. When I asked about the requested 7/16 rods I was told "1st you'll need to pull your cylinder head and clearance for the 7/16 pushrods or they will rub on the pushrod holes causing wear, heat, harmonics and possibly damage to the rod."

Now I have had 7/16 rods in 4 other builds and never once had a clearance issue. Have I just been lucky on those other occasions?

I had even offered to buy another set of 7/16 rods with the intent of making two sets of heavier duty rods using the 3/8 for intake only. The response I got was "Why would you use 7/16 for exhaust and 3/8 for intake?


I am no expert by any means but again I have been around the block a time or two. Am I the ignorant one here or does this not make sense to anyone else?
 
And this was all after you recieved the ones that where to short to begin with?
 
I cant speak for everyone, but if i sold push rods, and you ordered 7/16, and paid for them, you would get them... Is it hard to expect to get what was ordered? It shouldnt be. Sorry about the crap you are going through jake, ill just sit back and watch now.
 
Well I guess my big question here is does any of that quoted make any sense to anyone? Am I missing something?


I think trying to convince me the push rods were strong enough would have been a better avenue to take rather than what was said. Again unless I am completely ignorant here..
 
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My builder tried an extreme duty push rod with a high profile/aggressive cam on my 6.7 and it did rub. I don't know if it was 7/16 or not.
 
Only place it can rub is in the Cylinder head guide holes! I would coat the rods with grease and then crank the motor over should see any place touching really easy then!
 
So no one with real experience willing to comment on this huh?

I guess I should have figured as much. The old saying "its not what you know but who" stands true..
 
What's real experience? I'm running a set of 7/16 and honestly didn't spend a lot of time checking but visually they were fine and deflection should be much less than stock. Whole season on it and it's fine.
 
What's real experience? I'm running a set of 7/16 and honestly didn't spend a lot of time checking but visually they were fine and deflection should be much less than stock. Whole season on it and it's fine.

I would call that real experience.
 
So no one with real experience willing to comment on this huh?

I guess I should have figured as much. The old saying "its not what you know but who" stands true..

Don't get all bitter on here. I am sure that most people toss them in, they look fine, and that's that. Maybe they rub a little when the deflect?

If I were you, I'd be more upset I didn't get what I paid for (or tried to pay for), and if it's been working in the past, you're probably just fine.

On another note, I am pretty sure that the pushrods are harder than the cast, so they'd probably wear away the material you would have to trim anyways.
 
Don't get all bitter on here. I am sure that most people toss them in, they look fine, and that's that. Maybe they rub a little when the deflect?

If I were you, I'd be more upset I didn't get what I paid for (or tried to pay for), and if it's been working in the past, you're probably just fine.

On another note, I am pretty sure that the pushrods are harder than the cast, so they'd probably wear away the material you would have to trim anyways.

I am upset that I did not get what I wanted or asked for. That more than anything. It is the fact that a vendor "a very popular one around here" either try's to sell me a line of BS or does not know what he is talking about instead of just getting me what I asked for. I even offered to purchase another set.

On a side not the heavier rods I wanted would reduce deflection but hell he never even offered up a ticker wall 3/8 rod as a option. He lists several sizes and wall thickness options and sent me the lightest one he sells to go with my cam and billet rods I ordered at the same time.
 
We never have issues with 7/16" rubbing on our extreme duty pushrods. You do not need them on the intake unless you are running a huge roller cam with triple springs set up for 6500+ rpm.


Don't waste your money with .083" rods. they are cheaper, but have marginal gains in rigidity over OEM .078" wall.
7/16 rods will start to have clearance issues with higher rocker ratios and extremely high lift cams over .385" lobe lift. Tapered rods can remedy this. Some people have products because they can people will buy them, others to solve issues. You might ask what buckling force his varying rods have. You can reference our INFO section about pushrods for comparisons.
 
We never have issues with 7/16" rubbing on our extreme duty pushrods. You do not need them on the intake unless you are running a huge roller cam with triple springs set up for 6500+ rpm.


Don't waste your money with .083" rods. they are cheaper, but have marginal gains in rigidity over OEM .078" wall.
7/16 rods will start to have clearance issues with higher rocker ratios and extremely high lift cams over .385" lobe lift. Tapered rods can remedy this. Some people have products because they can people will buy them, others to solve issues. You might ask what buckling force his varying rods have. You can reference our INFO section about pushrods for comparisons.

Thanks for confirming I was not a complete idiot and teaching me a few other things in the process. I went ahead and ordered some 7/16 .120 wall earlier for my exhaust. I can assure you i will never spend a dime with this vendor again. :Cheer:
 
Spend where you get your best value for your money. Just remember, very seldom is the lowest priced item a better value .
 
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