96 CCLB 4x4 with a lift... 1 peice rear shaft?

Kronic_187

Kronic_187

Mekanical injection junky
Joined
Sep 27, 2009
Messages
1,343
getting sick of dealing with the steady bearing, pinion angle, 2 peice rear draft shaft speed wobble bullchit....



need some ideas on how to fix it once and for all...


concidering 1 peice rear shaft with 1410's or 1480's depending on what i can find

or getting rid of dodge steady bearing and going with an impliment style... no rubber bushings...

i know im not the only one with issues with this stupid design....

HELP:cheer:
 
PM "1pieceatatime" on here, or post in his sponsor forum "Al's Driveline" on here. He's a boss when it comes to Spicer and driveshaft parts.
 
This ^^^. I got some quotes from him for a one piece and he knew exactly how to build it plus gave me options. I though I would be smart and get it local to save shipping. Well go figure the local guy orders the wrong flange etc. Two flanges later and more money. I should have bought from 1pieceatatime and saved the hassle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ah thought you were also on the 96.

Ford is a different shaft for a 1 piece and needs it like this, unless you have a f150 [ame="http://s679.photobucket.com/user/supershafts/media/IMG_20140625_085347.jpg.html"]#stub/slip.shaft Photo by supershafts | Photobucket[/ame]
 
You always want the slip at the front or trans/Tcase end so it's less likely to be submerged.
Your truck was originally a 2 pc ? it doesn't look long, but pics can be deceiving
 
Supershafts said:
You always want the slip at the front or trans/Tcase end so it's less likely to be submerged.
Your truck was originally a 2 pc ? it doesn't look long, but pics can be deceiving
Click to expand...

Yeah that's how this local guy built it amend I don't think he did the best job.

Originally it was a single piece drive shaft. Length is around 58".


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
You can always change it next time you do joints, put the flange on the slip end and have it rebalanced, it's better to keep the slip out of being submerged, the seal and the breather hole will allow water in them and if you don't do enough PM they'll wear out early.

Unless you have the cv head like the excursions and then incorporating the slip into the end with the cv head is more than people want to spend on their shaft.
.
 
Supershafts said:
You can always change it next time you do joints, put the flange on the slip end and have it rebalanced, it's better to keep the slip out of being submerged, the seal and the breather hole will allow water in them and if you don't do enough PM they'll wear out early.

Unless you have the cv head like the excursions and then incorporating the slip into the end with the cv head is more than people want to spend on their shaft.
.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, I'll do that. No CV end, single joint only so it shouldn't be an issue.
 
truck has a 7" lift though... can this still be done without excessive wobble?

truck see's just as much highway as it does time in the dirt
 
Here is a 1 piece i did that i got a picture of with lift and 38's exposing the shaft

10483829_868805253148169_8372062595413257064_o.jpg
 
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