99 ALH Power issues

madmikeismad

madmikeismad

So mad
I thought I had another thread started on this, but can't find it. I've been asking on some other forums, but no one there seems to know anything beyond what size their wheels are.

Been having power issues where it drives with what feels like 30hp, and then occasionally it's like a switch is flipped and it's got full power.

I just took apart the intake, minus the manifold. Ran it down the street with no filter or MAF, and there was a slight power gain. Got through the the gears a little faster. So the MAF is still on my list of possible causes.

I still have to check the "N75" and/or actuator to make sure the turbo is being allowed to work.

Silly noob question: Is the actuator and the "N75" the same thing?
 
This sounds similar to the limp mode issue mines had for a while.

Is it down on Power all the time... Mine limps when driving but a re-key will take it right back to full power until it does it again..
 
How many miles are on it and does it still have the EGR? Is it an early 99 or 99.5?
 
I have read a lot about issues with the MAF sensor. Either there is a bad connection or i guess brake clean will cause some issue with it. I would try some dielctirc (sp?) in the MAF sensor connection.

No codes?
 
EGR is getting deleted when I get time. I have the parts, just not the time.

I should also mention I cant hear the turbo, ever. Except that occasional time when the car is running right, then it screams. Thats whats leading me to believe the actuator is getting stuck open, or bad n75, or bad maf sending bad readings.

Has 260k.

MHOP: I have no idea if it's early 99 or 99.5. It's a 99 beetle mkIV
 
N75 is what im thinking. When you do your EGR delete you should pull your intake and clean it also.
 
Ok, all lines to the N75 are solid (no guarentee they aren't leaking though), and I don't think I can use ether to find it on this car LOL

What is the actuators default position? I'm guessing open for least amount of boost? And then vacuum is applied to close it, and it gradually opens under power like a wastegate?
 
no vacuum = open, least boost. full vacuum = closed, all of the boost.

buy a mitivac, it will save you lots of headache and double as a vacuum gauge for testing stuff.
 
Checked the actuator, it moves freely.

So I cleared codes, and drove it with a buddys vagcom, it thre

1550
Charge pressure deviation

And another code about the MAF short to ground.

So im leaning towards maf now, and then the n75.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
 
madmikeismad said:
Checked the actuator, it moves freely.

So I cleared codes, and drove it with a buddys vagcom, it thre

1550
Charge pressure deviation

And another code about the MAF short to ground.

So im leaning towards maf now, and then the n75.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Also, I just filled up, averaged 44.81mpg over 602 miles. I think thats pretty damn good for running like crap LOL
 
8d6f6c87_Bump3.jpg
 
those things are just too big ;)

MAF wouldn't likely cause a charge pressure deviation code. Too many things to list that could cause them.

How did you check the actuator?
 
as in with the actuator hooked up you were able to move it freely?

Or did you remove the actuator and move it?
 
I'm ordering a MAF now. If that doesn't fix it, I'll try the N75, if that doesnt fix it, I'll tie the actuator down and see if that helps lol
 
Listent to this. Go to the junko yard and get a 2.0L gaz engine MAF.
It'll fuel more and cheaper. Just make sure your Clutch doesn't afterward.
Been there done that. My ex girl friend had one of those 2000interstate jetta.It would
be nice that you get a boost gauge too cause it might gives you over boost f/c if you hold her too long...
 
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