All out on my last 04 build!

C

cquestad

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Oct 17, 2007
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I am going to start a thread about my last...top to bottom build on my 04. It now has 260k and had a bunch of exhaust leaks in my twin piping connections, siezed wastegate, blown out leaky wastegate cover, sacked out valve springs, a bent valve that made a slight contact with #6 piston, blown headgasket at coolant ports...eating coolant, worn out original tie rods and track bar, needed ball joints,...etc etc. So...pic by pic...will walk through this!

First...cut up my old head. Comment on it!
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http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=674&pictureid=1311

See the wall that broke through?
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http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=674&pictureid=1312

This one didn't leak...yet! Got a little greedy on porting!
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http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=674&pictureid=1313

I an not going to bore as deep into the head when opening up the pocket diameter...and maybe remove more material infront of where the guide protrudes into the port. Has anyone run shorter guide protrution into the port to gain better flow around the valve? I do it all the time on my dirt bike heads?

I am going to be long winded on this thread...and share everything! I have been a little secretive in the past...but all will be shared now. Big plans...cool different stuff...huge expectations for the last leg of my oem shortblock.

I will also be doing a bunch of suspension mods too!
 
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I assume you did the P&P yourself? Is there a good kit you can get that has all the assorted bits to do it in one single kit? Getting ready to yank my head off. I'm not going to get greedy though (everyone says this) but anything over stock would be good!
 
Some work was done by a machine shop...some work by me. The hand blending is easy with just a couble of carbides and a stone or two...the big picture important stuff like the valve pocket bores, exhaust port bores...valve guide replacement....seat replacement...and valve and seat angles all have to be done on a mill. I would team up with an EXPERIENCED machine shop.
 
I'm not going to do any of the valve stuff myself. I'd rather not have a seat fall into the combustion chamber right after start up ;) I honestly don't want to p&p that aggressively. There's a fine line between perfect and too much that is all too often crossed such as your picture. You can say you gotta pay to play the game, but I'd rather not pay for a whole new cylinder head just in search of a few more CFM haha.
 
See the window? Whoops...next time I will not bring the largest bore diameter as deep into the valve pocket...and remove more from the floor infront of the valve guide.

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Nothing but valve spring tension holding my exhaust seats in. They were leaking around the back and resulted in bad compression. Don hooked my up with some fresh Sportsman springs to replace the slightley sacked out ones that had 150k of 80 plus psi and 4k plus tunes on them.

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The first of many turbo pics...this is my 64 65 13 HTT secondary with 160k on it. Wastegate was fused at slightley open, wastegate cover warped...seal blow bad resulting in another exhaust leak. E er seen satinless get so hot it turns white and flakey? 350 bucks later...fresh as new! Thanks HTT! Ready for another 150k of battle.

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So... know there are head gods out there...let's debate removing the ramp infront of the guide location and possibly shortening the guide some to allow better flow into the bowl behind the valve face and ultimately past the open valve....
 
So with your head cut apart, how far down do you think you could take the valve spring pocket, before water?
 
I would stop a 1/4 sooner this time...lol. That's the fun part of gambling with sand cast parts...its like a box of chocolates...you don't know what you get to you bite into one!
 
Well...here is more of the wear and tear while I wait for the head discussion to commence.

You can see the black soot mess from every hot pipe connection in my twins...warped flanges, blown gaskets...major loss of drive pressure. My manifold to head connecion was good thanks to MLS gaskets and studs with gripper teeth locking nuts. My spacer used to be undivided...so my manifold and my secondary had been all port matched and the divider knife edged and D shaped the inside edge of the ports. Everything is getting milled flat and a surprise is coming to replace the spacer. My 488 primary used to be mirror finish polish and the center sections, manifold and hot pipe were black hi temp.

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Pistons, cylinder crosshatch, and deck look good. Will check piston height/protrusion to guess at the condition of my rods and check the deck for flatness. Should be fine unless all of my rods are bent the same amount!

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Yuck! O rings were the only thing that had not failed. Head gasket was blown between water ports. I think I had too much o ring protrusion and not enough clamp on the rest of the gasket. Two valves were bent...one put a very small mark on #6 piston that should buff out in the hole.

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My torsion bar drop mount broke from some serious romping on my Thuren 5inch King Suspension...I have rebuilt that and made it much stonger...and changed the enlink style to a double rod end.

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My 5inch springs have seettled over time...they used to read 18.5 inches at ride height...my new ones will read 19.5 and only have 340 lbs/inch rating...100 pounds less than stock. The old ones were that rate too...and coupled with 2.5 inch Kings....ride is plush and controled like no other. The Kings will get rebuilt with new seals, oil, and nitrogen. They don't leak externally...but last time I went to check the charge...I got a shot of dirty oil in the face from the scharder valve...which means the oring on the floating disc that seperate the two is blown.

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I always do things out of order...so I ditched my stock bumper and kinda copied a Fusion style but made from 10 ga. I used losts of gusstes and better engineering to make it stronger than most but weigh the same as stock...its like 60lbs max. I grafted into my old push bar and frenched in 8 inch long distance, 6 inch med distance, and 6 inch fogs. Couple that with a Brite Box and I can light up the world. I have a pic of it rhinoed and with lights installed.

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After 40 hours of fab time...

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With rhino and lights...

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I broke one of the first Opie Phat Shafts after 145k. Dave with Ultimate Trans rebuilt me to the top again...including a new convertor design...because I managed to break the welds on the cover and also break the pump.

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Come on...still no head porting debate yet? I am disappointed...I never share this much and people mush be on the batcrap or bottle threads...lol.
 
cquestad said:
I would stop a 1/4 sooner this time...lol. That's the fun part of gambling with sand cast parts...its like a box of chocolates...you don't know what you get to you bite into one!
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LOL, I am saying the valve spring pocket. The one outside? I wanna drop some spring pressure on mine, figured cutting the pockets would be pretty simple.

Why don't you send me that bumper!
 
Need to know your spring rate...relaxed height....installed height....and then you desired lesser spring rate...then I can tell you how much to cut. If you don't know the rate....test them at 1 inch of compression and measure load with a strain gauge.

You had me thinking about the pocket behind the valve...
 
Btw...the NEW Opie Phat Shaft has been fixed so that it will NOT break through the oiling hole.
 
cquestad said:
Need to know your spring rate...relaxed height....installed height....and then you desired lesser spring rate...then I can tell you how much to cut. If you don't know the rate....test them at 1 inch of compression and measure load with a strain gauge.

You had me thinking about the pocket behind the valve...
Click to expand...

I can figure the amount I want to cut, I want to know how much is available.

I got excited for a minute when I saw you need to know my spring rate. I was curious why you would need that to send me a bumper. :)
 
My guess you would never cut anywhere near how much there is availible. I will check for sure...but it appears to be 3/8....so 1/8 should be nothing...and that would be more than you would ever need.
 
cquestad said:
My guess you would never cut anywhere near how much there is availible. I will check for sure...but it appears to be 3/8....so 1/8 should be nothing...and that would be more than you would ever need.
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Yes sir, I was in the .050 range. Haven't seen any issues, but I have more spring pressure than I need, and figure it would lessen the strain if I decide to put a big boy cam in it!

Thanks
 
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