USMCShooter
BrokeandSmiling
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2020
- Messages
- 27
Waiting on Pistons, but have everything else to machine block and heads and about ready to start machining. I'm waiting on the service manual I ordered to get here and have been reading everything I can about building these 5.9's.
I've built pretty much every American V8 available in the last 60 years from mild to wild and know pretty much all the tricks of the trade.
I'm into some similar territory but definitely have questions. My goal is a bullet proof street/towing engine, around 650-700hp (G56 and South Bend will limit me to 1400lb ft for now) that is capable of 1000hp (minus fire rings) should I ever lose control of my mind and checkbook at the same time. I want to be able to climb in it and drive coast to coast and pull whatever I want, wherever I want.
From what I have gleaned and will verify with the service manual, cummins recommends .0045-.0065 piston-to-wall clearance? I've seen some folks that recommend another .001 on #'s 5 and 6 for heat purposes? I'm adding a Fleece Bypass Kit in this build, so I'm hoping temps stay nominalized front to back...so is an extra .001 necessary?
I'm taking the bore to .020 over with Mahle pistons:
Wagler street rods
Hamilton 177/208 cam, 103# springs, pushrods and tappets.
ARP Main and ARP 2000 Head Studs
Factory standard crank with Fluidampr and Plus kit
S&S 80% Nozzles
Fleece 10mm stroker
Fleece bypass kit
Glacier 2 micron filter setup
AFE Bladerunner Intake
BD Charge Cooler
Airdog 150
New OEM Rockers (don't like the galling on originals)
Clevite H-Series Main/Rod Bearings
New Oil Pump and Cooler
Cummins Water Pump
BD Manifold
Super B Special Turbo
Ryan Milliken Tuning
Driven Break-In Oil
I had to take a loan on the truck for the engine build and money is getting tight, but it will get a Pusher High Mount, S475 over Stocker with a retune in a few months when I can save for it.
I'll clearance everything with Micrometer and dial bore gauge for Oil clearance verification, and torques will be done with calibrated torque wrenches.
I've cleaned the old oil pump out thoroughly and intend to mod it to prime the oil system, with assembly lube on every rotating surface.
Any tips, recommendations from the builders out there? PTW clearance? Ring End Gaps?
I truly want this to be a one-time build.
V/R
Jamie
I've built pretty much every American V8 available in the last 60 years from mild to wild and know pretty much all the tricks of the trade.
I'm into some similar territory but definitely have questions. My goal is a bullet proof street/towing engine, around 650-700hp (G56 and South Bend will limit me to 1400lb ft for now) that is capable of 1000hp (minus fire rings) should I ever lose control of my mind and checkbook at the same time. I want to be able to climb in it and drive coast to coast and pull whatever I want, wherever I want.
From what I have gleaned and will verify with the service manual, cummins recommends .0045-.0065 piston-to-wall clearance? I've seen some folks that recommend another .001 on #'s 5 and 6 for heat purposes? I'm adding a Fleece Bypass Kit in this build, so I'm hoping temps stay nominalized front to back...so is an extra .001 necessary?
I'm taking the bore to .020 over with Mahle pistons:
Wagler street rods
Hamilton 177/208 cam, 103# springs, pushrods and tappets.
ARP Main and ARP 2000 Head Studs
Factory standard crank with Fluidampr and Plus kit
S&S 80% Nozzles
Fleece 10mm stroker
Fleece bypass kit
Glacier 2 micron filter setup
AFE Bladerunner Intake
BD Charge Cooler
Airdog 150
New OEM Rockers (don't like the galling on originals)
Clevite H-Series Main/Rod Bearings
New Oil Pump and Cooler
Cummins Water Pump
BD Manifold
Super B Special Turbo
Ryan Milliken Tuning
Driven Break-In Oil
I had to take a loan on the truck for the engine build and money is getting tight, but it will get a Pusher High Mount, S475 over Stocker with a retune in a few months when I can save for it.
I'll clearance everything with Micrometer and dial bore gauge for Oil clearance verification, and torques will be done with calibrated torque wrenches.
I've cleaned the old oil pump out thoroughly and intend to mod it to prime the oil system, with assembly lube on every rotating surface.
Any tips, recommendations from the builders out there? PTW clearance? Ring End Gaps?
I truly want this to be a one-time build.
V/R
Jamie