Ati damper came off...

mulisha

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Jun 19, 2008
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Bad things for me yesterday at the track.. 1st run, around the 1000ft mark, felt the loss of power, truck died... My ATI damper came off.... Truck doesnt sound good at all... We'll see later this week the extent of damage... I have a beand new damper here that was given to me by a fluid damper rep, but i have a bad feeling...
 
Your not the first truck I've heard of and seen an ATI fall off of. I had one come loose twice on a customer truck and another local guy here has had his balancer bolts break off in the crank 3 times, even broke ARP bolts!
 
It was nice meeting you this weekend, sucks that this happened man. I hope nothing else is damaged. Good luck.
 
Glad I read this before buying a dampener . I was in the market right now and was leaning towards the ATI until now!!
 
We had our ati come off at the line with our pulling truck when we broke our cam. It sheared the bolts off. I think it was our error on the install though.
 
Glad I read this before buying a dampener . I was in the market right now and was leaning towards the ATI until now!!

I think there was a thread here a while back about fluiddamper doing the same thing.
 
Im thinking all the noise im hearing the last few seconds it was running was the lack of fuel....
 
I've also had my ATI bolts shear off on my Puller this season. Happened at the end of the run. They may have been weakened by a loose flywheel I had on a previous pass.
 
Are any of these pinned to the crank in 2 spots?


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George, they advise you to use new bolts, and pin them when installing
for high hp applications.
 
George, they advise you to use new bolts, and pin them when installing
for high hp applications.

I understand amos... I have a brand new one ready for install.. We'll see if everything is ok..
 
I run Fluid Dampner's and have seen some loosen up. I will never install one again with out adding the second pin and locktite the bolts.
 
I went one step further, I wrapped small SS wire around the heads of my bolts. Put loctite on the threads and the wire, then proceeded to torque them down. I never had an issue. When the bolts were removed the SS wire had been driven into the clearance on the damper. Basically not allowing the damper to move.
 
We run three dowel's in our Fluidamper and even then when you pull it off there is a slight fretting between the surfaces. They sure do work at high rpm's.
 
We had an atk shear the bolts as well. It was pinned and torqued to spec with blue locktite. They had no interest in discussing why it failed. It took out our oil pan and trans pan. Super dangerous for spectators. I wont use or sell them anymore.
 
We had an atk shear the bolts as well. It was pinned and torqued to spec with blue locktite. They had no interest in discussing why it failed. It took out our oil pan and trans pan. Super dangerous for spectators. I wont use or sell them anymore.

I don't know what safety shroud you need for NHRDA but for NTPA you have to have 360 around any rotating mass including the engine. Under the harmonic balancer you have to run 0.120 thick at least.

I switched back to my fluiddampner after the bolts sheared off my ATI, even though it was a little loose at the end of last year. This year I used new bolts and retorqued them after the first good rip on it and checked them after every run and they never came loose again.

After seeing those ATI bolts shear I won't run them either. I can't see those bigger bolts breaking on the Fluid dampner.
 
Curious as to why these dampeners are an issue? Design flaw of just the way we employ there use?

Personally I've used the Fluid for years on stocks bolts no pins without issue in both 5.9 and 6.7.
 
George...
Sorry to hear about your break at E-Town,hope the damage is minimal and you get it running quickly..........Andy
 
Using an ATI myself. Does the failure appear to always be bolt related?

Meaning possibly preventable by frequent maintenence and re torquing.

I'm curious and concerned.
 
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