Brake problem low pedal "help"

torqueman

New member
Joined
Jan 1, 2007
Messages
131
Well it all started when I changed my rear pads. Since I changed them pedals been weird. Lower than usual but if u pump them they come right up. Bled them and changed calipers to but no change. What do u guys think master cylinder or what. Maybe crap plugged somewhere too. Thanx
 
obvious things first....make sure the calipers are on the correct sides. the bleeders need to be towards the top
 
How did you bleed them? Sorry, but gotta ask lol.

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Pedal down crack open to bleed then close and let off pedal. Repeat till no air. Sound right. And truck running. Thanx.
 
Take a needle nose vise grip and pinch off the rubber line to the rear brakes. If you get a solid pedal the problem is back there. then switch side to side to isolate the proble. Otherwise if no change do the same to the front. No change? then you can assume the master...
 
Pedal down crack open to bleed then close and let off pedal. Repeat till no air. Sound right. And truck running. Thanx.

I meant more like if you were using a pneumatic bleeder or the manual method. I always have issues when I do it manually like you did. I only use bleeders now lol.

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Truck needs to be OFF. Pump up brakes. Gets hard. Open valve. Pedal to floor. Close valve. Repeat.
 
What's the diff if truck is running or not. Doesn't the hydro boost play any effect or at least make it easier to pump up. I sure like the idea of pinching lines to isolate where problem is, simple. My buddy seems to think when I first did the pads alone and I compressed the cylinders back to fit new pads might of sent some crap into the master cyl, he thinks I should flush everything. Thanx guys.
 
How do you pump up brakes with it running?
 
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And you work on other people stuff...?

So your saying you can't bleed brakes with the truck off? I personally don't want to be next to a hot exhaust, load engine or have the truck fall into gear and roll off the jack or stands and fall on me or damage the truck . Much rather have it off.
 
No but your saying you cant with it running? I agree if you can do it off yea sweet go for it but some instances to build enough pedal pressure to bleed the system you need the booster to assist it.
 
No but your saying you cant with it running? I agree if you can do it off yea sweet go for it but some instances to build enough pedal pressure to bleed the system you need the booster to assist it.

Ofcourse you can build pressure with it running but wouldn't you want more control over the pedal presure with it off? I would sure hate to build up a bunch of pressure in the line and some one go to Brake open the valve and it explode or spray all over the truck. It's just bleeding brakes. Just removing air from the fluid so why would you do it running? We arent trying to come to neck breaking hault. To be honest here, they are power assisted brakes so with out the power assist they act as Manuel brakes like old trucks and cars came with. Maybe the piston and surface area ratio may differ but same basic concept. Thats just my point of view on it. I'd rather play it safe and accomPlish the same results.
 
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Absolutely not... ALWAYS with Engine off. If you have time for it to sit, then gravity bleed it.. open all bleeders on all 4 calipers.. top off Master, then leave it for minimum 4 hours. This is assuming the fluid won't run onto the pads. But if you're pumping the brakes to bleed, do it with the truck off.
 
Thanks for info guys. The funny thing is all I did was change rear pads didn't even crack the lines u wouldn't think there'd b air in system. I squeezed pistons in and put new pads and pedal been low since then. So I ended up changing rear calipers thinking they were hanging up maybe. No luck. Maybe I'll try gravity bleeding them on the weekend.
 
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