Burning oil on new engine

STROKETHISF350

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Well to continue my strain of bad luck with this truck I just had the engine rebuilt. It's bored .020 with new pistons, rings, bearings etc. it currently has around 1000 miles and I've noticed the slight smell of burning oil and smoke coming from the exhaust especially when it idles for a few minutes and you take off its blows a cloud of smoke and also upon initial start up.
Initially I thought the turbo seals where going so I pulled the turbo and manifold to find not enough oil residue to think it was that so upon inspecting the exhaust ports I noticed what looked to me like oils was Being sprayed at the top of the exhaust port and there is also a noticeable amount of oil sitting on top of the valve.
Question is where do I go from here? I would say the valve seals and guides are shot which I guess could be possible even though they were replaced about a year ago , just looking for some opinions before I pull the head off. Thank you in advance !


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Where is the oil level at? Do you have the right length dip stick?

I take it you poured in 12 courts only one time, not twice?

I just read an article that had similar issues plus more and the oil level was almost double from where it should have been.
 
No issues with making oil. When I drained the oil it was probly 3 quarts low both times I changed it . Factory dipstick, it hasn't been changed out


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How many oil changes? Typically I'd run a mineral oil for 250-500 miles, then again to maybe 1500, then switch to synthetic with zinc. You might just be breaking it in still and oil's making it past the rings.

Any oil analysis?
 
I changed the oil at 500 miles and planned to change it again at 1500, with 1000 miles I wouldn't think it would start smoking like this


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Well, If it was a cylinder problem, it would have blow-by.
I'm guessing valve seals.
I am confused about the "new engine" part. You must mean, rebuilt short block and year old head.?.
Why did the pistons need replaced? I see you went .020 so I assume some sort of cylinder damage took place.
 
Well, If it was a cylinder problem, it would have blow-by.
I'm guessing valve seals.
I am confused about the "new engine" part. You must mean, rebuilt short block and year old head.?.
Why did the pistons need replaced? I see you went .020 so I assume some sort of cylinder damage took place.


Yes just rebuilt short block, I went .020 over because I wanted a fresh start for new rings and the cylinders were a little worn. The head itself was done last year and was suppose to have new valve guides/seals installed. I know that the engine isn't fully broken in yet and I really haven't haven't beat on it yet so I'm assuming a little blow by is normal.
On the other hand the oil in the exhaust port and the almost of smoke/oil consumption can't be normal. I really hope it's the guides/seals in the head but I'm not sure how to narrow it down


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I only asked, because I was curious as to whether it overheated, or maybe seized an isolated piston or two. Those failures will cause valve seal failure.

I'd run it a little more, keeping a hawk eye oil consumption.
It would be a good idea to limit idle time, and put something heavy in the bed to make it work.
 
Yes just rebuilt short block, I went .020 over because I wanted a fresh start for new rings and the cylinders were a little worn. The head itself was done last year and was suppose to have new valve guides/seals installed. I know that the engine isn't fully broken in yet and I really haven't haven't beat on it yet so I'm assuming a little blow by is normal.
On the other hand the oil in the exhaust port and the almost of smoke/oil consumption can't be normal. I really hope it's the guides/seals in the head but I'm not sure how to narrow it down


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1000 miles and not beat on yet means you need to right away
 
I only asked, because I was curious as to whether it overheated, or maybe seized an isolated piston or two. Those failures will cause valve seal failure.

I'd run it a little more, keeping a hawk eye oil consumption.
It would be a good idea to limit idle time, and put something heavy in the bed to make it work.


I believe with the previous bottom end the hottest it ever got was 210 according to the cts monitor. Egts.... well that's a different story, probly 1900+ I literally have the head ready to come off at this point with the exception of the head studs so I wonder if it wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and have the machine shop check/replace the guides and seals


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Borrow the biggest trailer you can find and drive it like you stole it!!


Do you think they will get this pig to seat the rings fully? Makes me so mad the original engine had 200,000+ miles and used absolutley no oil with 0 blow by and this pig is exactly the opposite


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Had similar issues with my brothers truck. As stated before a heavy trailer and a few long pulls locked in overdrive will help.
 
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