CAD

12valve95

12valve95

Comp Diesel Sponsor
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Jan 16, 2016
Messages
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Does my 95 have the cad system? All the reserch ive done says yes...

So then the next question is how do I get rid of it? Best options?

I want hard parts, not shims and plug tricks.

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The best fix is the one piece shaft kit from Yukon, ECGS, etc for the passenger side.

If you're pulling/racing its a good time to upgrade both sides to 35 spline axles
 
I wouldn't put a 1 piece in a daily driver without also doing a spin hub conversion. Mine steered like a car after the conversion + a steering box brace.

I'm sure lots of people have done the swap and left the stock hubs, I just didn't like the idea over everything spinning on mine.

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biggy238 said:
I wouldn't put a 1 piece in a daily driver without also doing a spin hub conversion. Mine steered like a car after the conversion + a steering box brace.

I'm sure lots of people have done the swap and left the stock hubs, I just didn't like the idea over everything spinning on mine.

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Click to expand...

The 02-13 trucks all have the front end/driveshaft spinning all the time and they seem to drive pretty good.
 
bigstacks95 said:
The 02-13 trucks all have the front end/driveshaft spinning all the time and they seem to drive pretty good.
Click to expand...
There has to be wear and MPG concerns with this tho? If it was the best way there wouldnt be all the kits to convert ober to free spin. Im assuming here.

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Pretty small added wear. I just locked the collar over in mine and that's been 7 years and 40k mi ago. The driveline is about the only thing that's going to show any signs of wear.

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bigstacks95 said:
The 02-13 trucks all have the front end/driveshaft spinning all the time and they seem to drive pretty good.
Click to expand...
I'm aware of this, and after having driven all 3 versions of axle, I'm making my suggestion.

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biggy238 said:
I'm aware of this, and after having driven all 3 versions of axle, I'm making my suggestion.

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Click to expand...

What about for drag racing? like 10.XX territory?

more street miles than track tho. Would the free spins hold fine or would it be better to do solid axles without the hubs
 
My 12V was way more stable at 100-120mph but I never drag raced it after the conversion and not in 4X4.
I'm not sure anyone is actively racing a hub axle.

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12valve95 said:
What about for drag racing? like 10.XX territory?

more street miles than track tho. Would the free spins hold fine or would it be better to do solid axles without the hubs
Click to expand...

If that's the case, just pull the cover off the axle tube and make a collar that permantly locks the axle connect, until you go to a one peice axle.
 
I sell quite a few transfer cases and front driveshafts for 2003 up, due to Dodge's dumbass design, which makes the driveshaft spin at road speed all the time.

There's a reason Dodge/Ram went back to the CAD design on '13(?) & up, actually, there is 2 reasons.
To help fuel mileage, and to keep the weak-assed Borg Warner t-case failure rates a bit lower.

Mark.
 
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Mark Nixon said:
I sell quite a few transfer cases and front driveshafts for 2003 up, due to Dodge's dumbass design, which makes the driveshaft spin at road speed all the time.

There's a reason Dodge/Ram went back to the CAD design on '13(?) & up, actually, there is 2 reasons.
To help fuel mileage, and to keep the weak-assed Borg Warner t-case failure rates a bit lower.

Mark.
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Honestly I think the reason so many NV271 and NV273's fail is because they are a piece of junk!!
 
bigstacks95 said:
Honestly I think the reason so many NV271 and NV273's fail is because they are a piece of junk!!
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Then you'd be wrong in your thinking.

Even the 241s I have seen with full time axles don't tend to like being beat up, when the driveshaft u-joints, or the cardan joint decide enough is enough.
Driveshaft vibrations are horrible on parts, ask Coorsman2005, if you don't believe me.

Mark.
 
Last edited:
Mark Nixon said:
I sell quite a few transfer cases and front driveshafts for 2003 up, due to Dodge's dumbass design, which makes the driveshaft spin at road speed all the time.

There's a reason Dodge/Ram went back to the CAD design on '13(?) & up, actually, there is 2 reasons.
To help fuel mileage, and to keep the weak-assed Borg Warner t-case failure rates a bit lower.

Mark.
Click to expand...

So the free spin kit is a must for a street truck to last, will they hold up to drag racing?
 
12valve95 said:
So the free spin kit is a must for a street truck to last, will they hold up to drag racing?
Click to expand...

Man your over thinking this, for a street truck that occasionally runs at the track go posi lock. Lock it in on track day and leave it that way all day, then unlock and drive home. Will not be a problem running 10's with the two peice axle shaft. I just wouldn't trust the vacume actuator, I've seen them not fully engage and strip the ends of the spline on the coupler. With the posi lock cable that isn't an issue.
 
I have no opinion, nor experience with the free spin kits.

If you go solid axle and you're rarely running the thing down the road 80 mph, or if you pay attention to the condition of the driveshaft, or vibrations, there would never be a problem.
However, most people don't even know how to check for loose u-joints, let alone maintain oil levels and parts that need routine maintenance, yet they wonder why they have catastrophic failures.

Then again, there are designs out there that should never be utilized in a truck that needs to be critically reliable, works and pulls loads.
Electrical or vacuum devices controlling drive line parts are a bad idea, but that's only my opinion.

Mark.
 
My CAD has been locked in with a bolt since fall of 2014 and it hasn't given me a hint of trouble. As stated above you do have to pay attention to the condition of the ujoints in the front driveshaft since it's always turning. I've put about 40k miles on the truck since then and probably close to 100 4x4 boosted launches.

I've heard a few bad things about the posi lock cables and it's just one more thing to worry about. I like the simplicity of having 4wd the instant I pull the lever. A one piece front shaft conversion has crossed my mind but I'm not gonna fix what isn't broken.

I think you'll be fine with just a one piece shaft or just locking the collar with a bolt, I wouldn't over think it.
 
What I do, and have never had an issue with, is open the housing, put fuel line to push the sleeve always on, worm gear around that, button it back up, and you're done.

Some have said they have issue with that, but unless you swap out the Open diff to something that locks or has an aggressive limited slip, you are basically just turning your setup to what the common rails use.
 
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