Coolant issues

89cumminstd

89cumminstd

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Dec 3, 2014
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I was driving and randomly lost heat today so I pulled over and realized my upper rad hose had a pin hole in it leaking, luckily I had a spare in my toolbox, now I can't seem to get the truck to burp still
No heat at all and it wants to run very hot it will pin all the way hot if I let it, I have tried letting it idle with the cap off and I cracked the heater core hoses and bled them, still no progress and advice will be very appreciated!
 
I also forgot to say it is constantly trying to pump all of the antifreeze to the overflow tank
 
89cumminstd said:
I also forgot to say it is constantly trying to pump all of the antifreeze to the overflow tank
Click to expand...

Try parking the truck with the back wheels in a ditch. Leave the cap off.

Edit: thermostat could be stuck or other things.
 
when it's cold try loosing the pipe plug next to number one valve cover it's how i do mine
the 4bt's in my dad's forklifts have a petock there just for that.
 
When I loosen the pipe plug should it be running too? And should the heat be on
 
I put a new stat in today and parked the truck going up a steep hill with the cap off for almost 2 hours it burped a lot but stopped after awhile and did nothing still no heat, I also tried cracking the plug while it was cold and hot it did not help either, is this the plug that takes a 3/8" ratchet? Could it be a bad water pump or head gasket?
 
Are you checking to make sure your getting coolant flow through your heater core? Pull one hose and make sure it's flowing all the way through.
 
Maybe the tstat. I just squeeze/pulse the **** out of the top hose till I stop getting air. Never had a problem that way.
 
I flushed the heater core when it was cold and had great flow but when it's hot if I take a hose off there's nothing there just steam, and I tried burping with the too hose I did that until no more bubbles still the same problem.
 
Can remember if the first gens have a water valve or not. If so see if it's working right.
 
Can you see any circulation in the cooling system? Make sure to use a cummins Stat also.
 
Did the t-stat have an air bleed valve on it. Yes the one that takes a 3/8 drive. I've had to loosen the pipe plug when it's warm with the cap off to get the air out of it and it sounds like still have an air lock of some kind. Did antifreeze come out through the threads on the plug if not you still have air you need to get out cause if you don't you could overheat the engine trust me I've done it.:bang
 
Do you have vacuum to the heater control valve when you turn the heat on? Black plastic thing in the heater core hose by the fire wall.
 
I did.. it sounds like your 's is being stubborn. with the heat on and that plug loose mine used to bleed out pretty easy most times when I filled it up.
 
Well I kept trying to burp it, I finally pressure tested the coolant system as soon as I shut the truck off the pressure kept rising that told me it's a cracked head or bad gasket the head is at machine shop now getting magnafluxed looking for cracks , I guess this is a good time to upgrade my head bolts and change gasket, I will Keep you guys posted on this. In the meantime has anyone used mighty diesels head bolts? They say the will take up to 70# of boost which is plenty for me. Thanks for all the help
 
I would over torque the stock head bolt rather than buy those bolts bud.
 
Save your money. I went a long time with over torqued bolts with 50+psi boost and no orings. Plenty of threads on this on here. Not going to lie, I run studs now. If you take your time between torques and go in 5 ft.lbs. increments after 120 ft. Lbs. Clear to 150 ft lbs. Use arp fastenet torque lube too.
 
Alright I am just worried about a stock one falling off when torquing and the truck has about 260,000 miles on it will that effect the bolts?
 
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