Cooling system

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jedeka

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I am currently running an electric water pump with a bypass plate at the back of the block. Coolant then goes thru a Watts pressure reducing valve then returns to the top radiator hose. I am still running a stock radiator with a Ford Taurus electric cooling fan and a thermostat. This has proven to work for the past two years, but checking to see if I can simplify this any. Thanks.
 
I drilled lots of holes in my tstat, trimmed fins off of my water pump, ran a water pump from a rear geartrain cummins(diameter of pulley is larger, so it runs at a slower speed) then had the EEP bypass. I returned mine into the lower radiator.

Never had any issues. I never was a fan of the electric water pumps.
 
I ran a trimmed fin water pump thru the bypass plate and the Watts valve on the dyno a couple weeks ago, after my 4 year old electric water pump failed. Didn't know if a gutted thermostat was common or the thermostat with drilled holes was a better option. I like my water temps to get in that 140-150 range before I get to the sled.
 
What I have found is the gutted thermostat allows all water to be about the same temp. What I found without the gutted tstat that when hooked to the sled the water temp/head would rapidly increase in temp, and then the tstat would open, allowing much cooler water in, it would hit the freeze plug in the head and pop it would come out.

I would allow the temperature gage to start to move(I am guessing around 120 degrees) and then be ready to hook. Only real way I could build heat was to shut the electric fans off.
 
I ran one of the electric water pumps for 4 years with gutted thermastat and flexalite fans. Never had an issue when everything worked. Had my water pump fail at an in opportune time on my last pull of last year.
 
Dont mean to hijack you're thread but i was wondering about lettting the truck warm up. Mine is a 2.5 truck and i usually let it warm up to normal operating temps before i pull. Is this bad? or should i be hooked to the sled at a lower temp?
 
What do you mean by clipped water pump? How much are you taking off the fins? .100? Like asked above are you drilling holes in the theromstat and leaving the center in or gutting that also? And what are you guys seeing for temps before you hook to sled?(on a non filled block)
 
We currently run about the same setup as some have said, clipped water pump, bypass valve, and thermostat with holes.

Anyone route a belt for just the water pump and no alternator. Basically damper, water pump and tensioner? I don't really want to go to an electric pump if possible.

I may have to look at that rear gear water pump.
 
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Ja564rm80 said:
What do you mean by clipped water pump? How much are you taking off the fins? .100? Like asked above are you drilling holes in the theromstat and leaving the center in or gutting that also? And what are you guys seeing for temps before you hook to sled?(on a non filled block)
Click to expand...

I didn't clip the center out, I believe I got my thermo from NAPA, as it had a lot of flat places to drill, and I drilled a ton of little holes as well as like 4 3/16" holes.

Also I mentioned, I like to see the gauge just start to move. My engine was built as a competition motor so piston clearances were a little looser, so I wasn't as concerned about how warm the engine was. I just wanted some heat in the block.

97crewcab said:
We currently run about the same setup as some have said, clipped water pump, bypass valve, and thermostat with holes.

Anyone route a belt for just the water pump and no alternator. Basically damper, water pump and tensioner? I don't really want to go to an electric pump if possible.

I may have to look at that rear gear water pump.
Click to expand...

Mine came from a 2008 freightliner in a fed ex truck if I recall correctly. I was running an alternator the whole time though.
 
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An option for a thermostat for the 12v guys might be a low temp 440 mopar t-stat (160*F I think). It is $5 and has a lot of flat area to drill holes.
 
Thanks for the info on the t-stat. How much did you clip the fins on the water pump? I'm spinning 5k for rpm and that builds a lot of pressure with a oem pump
 
Here is a picture of my water pump with clipped impeller. When measuring from the front side, mine measures 1/2" at tall end 1/4" at the short end.
 

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