CP3 machining

M

Mikesmithdmax

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Jul 25, 2014
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Has anyone cut on there pumps, as in drilling the fuel passages, or opening up certain areas for more volume? I have an extra pump and plenty of machine tools,
What's the best way to get the pressed balls out of the end the passages? I was thinking maybe use a carbide mill and cut them out? I can see quite a few restrictions in the thing,
Share your secrets brothers lol or experiences with this,

Truck is a 2wd lb7 zf6, it's around 500 hp now with all the usual mods. stock charger, hoping for 600 on sbe till this winter, I have a t4 Garrett good for 600 ima run till I build bottom end this winter. Then put something on it to make some real power, I think I can get it down close to 5000 lbs, should be a quick lil truck.
 
Do not start drilling in your cp3 man. They make a 1/2'' fitting for the fuel inlet you can screw on.
 
DirtyMaxx03 said:
Do not start drilling in your cp3 man. They make a 1/2'' fitting for the fuel inlet you can screw on.
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I think he's referring to internals...like what is done to make a pump Stage 1, Stage 2, Wild, etc.
 
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Some of the restrictions are there for a reason. But if you really want to DIY, a "bag of parts" from Industrial or others will get you the hard parts you need.
 
joefarmer said:
Some of the restrictions are there for a reason. But if you really want to DIY, a "bag of parts" from Industrial or others will get you the hard parts you need.
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Maybe I'm late to the game, but what high pressure pump is that in your avatar?!
 
buy a 'bag o parts' from Industrial, and it will look like an angry beaver was doing the 'machining'
 
DirtyMaxx03 said:
That's not going to be accomplished with common garage machining tools lol
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If I had the time I could build the cp3 from scratch lol, In my shop I have a conventional lathe, mill, surface grinder, and an old g coded id grinder, also a heat treat oven. Lol I'm not the guy who got a dewalt 3/8 drill and dremal from lowes and plans on 1000hp. Sorry if that sounds assholish lol.
I also have access to a fully equipped CNC machine shop 2 mail boxes from my shop.
Everyone knows about the "stroker" part of the pump because that's how the company's advertise them,

I was wondering what these big corps are doing to the pumps besides "stroking" them. they have to be opening up the passages that feed the plungers. Even a non stroker pump has trouble suppling fuel to the plungers.
 
WUnderwood said:
buy a 'bag o parts' from Industrial, and it will look like an angry beaver was doing the 'machining'
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Anyone can do there own bag o parts, that's a hyped up overpriced deal lol,

I've made my own kit on the last 3 duramax's I've owned, ported/shimmed internal regulator, slots cut in the fca regulator, end cap thrown away and a .400 +\- longer spring slipped inside to push the reg back.

What is the largest flowing NON stroker pump that y'all know of? I could build a stroker but I've read it reduces reliability quite a bit.
 
Has anyone used an external regulator to control the pressure from the gear pump? As in removing the "cascade" valve, tapping onto the ports that connect there, run a line from the bottom hole to a bypass regulator, tap the lubrication hole and run a small line right after the gear pump, or tee it into the main line going into the regulator so it'll have constant lube wether the valve is open or closed. Next would be the return coming from the regulator back to the return port in the cp3.

I'm sure there isn't much to gain by doing this, but it would insure you always have constant lube pressure going to the plungers, I'm sure it will take some trial and error to find the right size of restriction going to the lube port, too big and you would loose fuel going to the rail, too small you'd burn the pump up.

I've been working on a pump in my spare time, so far I've machined all the ports from the inlet leading to the gear pump to .375, ports from gear pump to fca to .300,

Has anyone did any machining on the gear pump cover? It may be small for a reason but at the inlet on the cover right above the drive gear looks like a restriction, u couldn't open it up much because of the o ring but it could be opened up .075 or so.

I've seen big hp cr pullers use custom billet gear pump covers, they look to be a bit wider, I'd say they use wider gears, or double up the stock gears. That'd provide much more flow.
 
jlibert said:
Bypassing has been done. There was a lot of good information here...

http://relentlessdiesel.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5
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Thanks for the info,

I was looking at the plungers closely last night, and with my background in cylinder head porting and valve design I see a huge restriction with the plunger valves, one could grind the head below the seat angle and gain roughly .030-.050 more area around the head of the valve.
I'm sure I'm not the first guy to discover these things, there is too many guy making huge hp with these pumps lol.
 
Took some time and watched the videos over on wicked diesels page, he went in depth on displacement vs flow, from what he showed me a stock pump is roughly 85% of what it can be. That's actually a lot higher than I expected.

So with a stock stroke and bore pump I could hone/bore/cut every orface in the thing and it'd never flow more than 225 lph,

With a larger bore/stroke I'm sure these mods are nessasary being as the passages can't keep up with a stock displacement pump.
 
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