Crank lightening

Why didn't you try running that same clearance on both journals?

rods @ 0.02755" and mains @ 0.00393"

Might I ask why you run the mains at 0.70mm? Is that what it calls for?
 
Got a little error here, I meant 0,07mm at rods and mains 0,1mm. Actually they both were 0,1mm but after nitriding it went a bit tighter. Although I could lift the engine off during winter to take a look at the bearings, will see if I had time for that. Got plenty to do on upcoming winter anyway.
Need to finish a buildup for friend and do some mods for the burban, mostly not engine related.

Timo
 
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Update for you guys, there's going to be a break in Timo's activities since he was in a dirtbike accident in an MX track. Broken jaw, nose and both wrists broken. I visited him in a hospital yesterday. He is doing well and will make a good recovery.
 
I'm wondering where "DISTURBED" and "DIESEL POWER" are now? Every time they replied to this thread I was laughing my ass off :hehe: :hehe:

Especially when there was a reference of "one side of the crank being way off" or "out of balance"... JEEEEEZZZ that cracked me up. But I had a lot of fun when those guys replied.

Engine has a very good throttle response and you can feel the difference. When driving it you cannot feel or hear any excess sounds or vibrations or anything that is abnormal. Engine has now done it's first 2500 miles in Timo's Sub.
 
Good news travel fast... They are maybe letting me home today, depends what doctor says later today. Like Jari said, can't do much for awhile, other than draw new parts with laptop, due to broken wrists. Haven't had this much time to spend with my phone for a years.... Later guys. I'm still alive. Timo
 
Get well Soon !! Nice job on the truck, I followed your build a long time ago..lol
 
I highsided down a rocky hillside a few years ago on a WR400.. busted myself up good. Then the bike flipped downhill and busted me up some more.
Hope you heal up ok. wrists are tough. Id start wearing wrist and knee braces, IMO.
 
Hope you at least had fun doing it! Get well soon dude!!! But don't try to rush anything...cant't do much without your health.

Epically post by a dumb phone.
 
Not much new in here. I wasn't able to drive a car for a long time, due to my accident. Meaning I haven't gained much miles to Suburban. Odo's still around 2500miles and the winter is here already. Been thinking to garage the Sub. in a month to do some mods during the winter months. The engine runs and sounds like it used to be, so all looks to be ok.

Timo
 
Haven't got much done during the winter, my accident played a role and so did kite surfing, my new hobby. Spring is here and it's time to take burban on the roads again. Before that I decided to make a small mod. for it. The original pump is definitely up to it's task, but robs power by being over rated 99% of it's time. I bought a electric water pump what BMW uses on their inline six engines. I didn't had a glue would it be good enough to keep Cummins in proper temps. but decided to try it out anyway. Just first test runs and it all looks good so far. While idling on gear to give some load to the engine, the controller gets the water pump speed to max for a moment and turn on the fans to bring the temp down from the target temp what you had been set. On the roads when doing about 60-70mph it keeps the pump speed at it's minimum, naturally the fans never came on. Now I gotto wait for summer temps and do some trailering to put it for real test. Other good thing when swapping in the electric pump is, you get rid of some weight too, old water pump and old mechanical fan bearing support, weight quite a much. Also the smarter electric pump free up a few horsepower too.
Took a few pics while making a bracket for the pump, the belt is now 6pk wide and runs only alternator and ac. Not sure if it's even needs 8pk wide anymore.
The controller what I used tinyCWA
and the water pump is Pierburg part 7.00294.17.0

Timo
 

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220 miles at the odo. since electric water pump. Just did really light trailering and it looks good.
Timo
 
Subbed, I'm really impressed by the factual parts of this thread. How did you turn the counterweights? Or did you have live tooling and use the lathe to index it?
 
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