cranks before firing

G-dubs

G-dubs

Thanks to Bank of Jessica
Joined
Feb 26, 2008
Messages
249
Always cranks for around 3-4 seconds cold or hot doesn't matter how long it sits. If you press the throttle pedal a little it will fire instantly. It's a 96 215 5spd truck only thing it has is a #6 plate. On my 1st gen 160 pump that's in my sig will only fire if I give it throttle it doesn't bother me on my 1st gen but I hate that it cranks that long on the 96. I've never had a virgin p-pump I'm guessing this is pretty common?
 
Very common. Tighten the governor springs a bit and reset the idle screw. Most times the idle screw will have a groove worn in it and need replaced or reshaped.
 
had to back my gov springs off one click and reset the idle, now it cranks right up.
 
There's not one set way. Too many variables, you just have to adjust and see how your truck reacts.
 
My truck started doing the same thing about 2 weeks ago, I backed mine off 2 clicks and everything is fine now.
 
Tighter can actually make it better, well sometimes... I had my 4k's at something like 7 clicks, stupid tight, fired right up with a bump of the key :D
 
From my experience requiring throttle to start quicker means your idle is too low....Make sure your idling around 750-800 RPM.
 
Got Smoke? said:
From my experience requiring throttle to start quicker means your idle is too low....Make sure your idling around 750-800 RPM.
Click to expand...

same here

even after a flowed and benched pump, it does not start like it used to, but then again, it idles right at 750. takes two or three seconds of cranking, when it fires it idles below 750.. driving it, or when it seems to get warmer it will idle 750 on the money..

adjusting the idle might be the way to go here... just have not done it yet...
 
x5 on loosening.

I also doubt the 3-4 seconds. That's a lot longer than you think. Typically it's 1-2 seconds. What is your idle speed?

Also, most all the VE's I've seen fire up instantly. I'd be more concerned about that one.
 
Last edited:
even with my idle at about 1100, it still didn't start easy, until I backed them off 1 click, then it worked great. fixed my buddies truck that way too.
 
Ive done both stock springs -1 click with 4k's +1 click fixed the (slow start).
 
I've fixed trucks going tighter +1 or +2 without touching the idle screw as this raises the idle about 100 rpm or loosening the governor springs -1 or -2 and raising the idle screw about 1 full turn which raised the idle about 100 rpm.

180 pumps that have maxed barrels are finicky, usually have to loosen them 1-2 clicks and raise the idle to almost 900 to get them to fire off quickly and not lope or die in gear. Seth explained this phenomenon being related to governor arm angle being steeper this creating a less "stable" idle and less "rack gain" during startup cranking.


One thing's for certain, if you set the idle to 1200+, it will fire off immediately regardless of what pump, springs, or jimmy rigged setup you're running. The problem is, 1200 is ridiculous for a daily driver!!!
 
What kind of stud protrusion are any of you seeing when setting your clicks? I have mine set at 1.25mm from the retainer to the stud using the butt end of a digital slide caliper. I'm trying to get rid of the cold engine lope/chokeout
 
Last edited:
I've asked the same question and been told that you can't use this measurement from one pump to another, BUT, you can use the stud length to make sure the springs are balanced.

Mine was hard to start and would die when I put it in gear when cold and when warm if the A/C was on. This fixed it.

I backed my springs out until the nuts were flush with the ends of the studs and then went back in 2 full turns. Worked great for me. Also, this procedure was recommended by 2 P-pump tuners I know.
 
That's about where these are now. I guess I will find out in the morning.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top