Cutting D25 Skyjacker Springs, Other Lowering Questions???

I kept my stockers, but I didn't go extreme.. I dropped around 2'' in front and 2.75 in the rear..
 
NickTF said:
Hotmopr, when you say bottm out do you mean the driveshaft?
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Yes. the yoke will hit the seal boot. I dont think the yoke will hit inside just against the case. It will be fine with the 1". But best thing would be to have the shaft shortened a 1" as well.
 
Ok, so far here is my plan. Below is what i've found for my tire options:
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45050&page=2

Basically a diameter tire of 31.6, 31.2, or 30.6. I think the bigger of the three is the best option given my 4.10 gears but bigger cost money, especially if i'm considering a set of XD Enduro wheels to go with this deal (if I lower gotta bling a little lol).

Right now my plan is to sell my trailmaster ssv shocks for a 2" lift (in for sale section for those interested) and find a pair that will work for a 1 to 2" drop over stock in the front. Beltech's 2wd shocks may work but need to measure and verify if the mounting is the same in 2wd vs 4wd which i'm thinking it is. I'm going to go back to stock springs up front have a pair with about 20k on them coming to my house. I will remove a coil or 2 from them to get a 1 to 2" drop in front. Will use my already on the truck solid steel adjustable track bar to re-center front axle. Need to visually verify if any clearence issues may present themselves as well. After that I plan to remove the factory 4" or 4.75" (whatever it is need to measure) rear block and replace with a 1" block to not sit ass low and not bottom drive shaft in transmission (don't plan to shorten at this time). I will get a set of shocks for a 2wd truck as suggested in this thread for the rear as well. I will also get a new set of u-bolts that I will need to measure for for the rear.

This all being said i'm open to constructive criticism and comments just as long as they are not directed toward my shotty spelling skillz lol. Thanks and have a great weekend all! Can't wait to hit the strip!
 
I've not removed the stock suspension block to verify what dimension the center hole is. Does anyone have handy the dimensions of the stock suspension block. I can measure the height, length, and width but don't want to take it apart to verify the locating hole in the center. Thanks.
 
Don't cut a full 2 coils from the stock springs! Dont ask how I know :bang
 
Thanks a ton guys. It's not been real easy to find information during this ordeal. Ok, i'll stick with one coil to start out with. What problems did you have b18?
 
Ok, here's the final plan. First I ended up with 265/75/16 Open Country HT tires from Toyo. Not easy to find an S-rated tire with e load rating so this was it for me. Will be cutting a coil to coil and a half out of a set of stock springs I plan to put back on the truck. I will remove the current trailmaster shock and replace with belltech part number 8004. This number according to their application guide wil work for 0" drop in a 2wd diesel app which I believe after speaking with trailmaster's guy that requires a smaller shock because of the 4x4 height. Should work for me being i'm dropping the front 1-1.5" over stock. Then I've ordered a set of 1.5" blocks from the guy tony suggested above along with u-bolts from them. A set of belltech part number 8504 are going in back which is listed for 2-4" drop in a 2wd diesel app. These are what the belltech guy suggested but wasn't sure on.

Oh, and for any who need to know the stock u-bolts are 1/2" diameter rod, 3" between the insides of each rod, and 13" long. They are square shaped.

I will report back on how it all works out.
 
Nice thing is they are solid T6061 billet aluminum.
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that's asking for trouble IMHO. I've seen a set of wallowed out blocks, and I wouldnt be comfortable with aluminum
 
i used stock shocks in the front with 1 3/4 coils cut off.i'm about 1" from the bumpstops. stock drive shafts front and rear. no blocks,overload leaf gone,2wd shocks.

when cutting front springs you must alter track bar length!!!!
 
i thought you never used aluminum for blocks? Nick if you want my truck is still down bretts if you wanna measure shocks. clamp those rear springs before you cut the the ubolts and make sure you have large c-clamps. one of mine cracked in half. did you get a used set of springs. its much easier to replace the front springs if you can take a torch or sawsall to the ones in there now.
 
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm removing my d25 springs so I can't harm them in the process. I have an impact now so that will make life a lot easier using the spring compressors. Also, I have an adjustable track bar which I know is good for 0-3" of lift according to Solid Steel just hoping it's good for -1 to -1.5" lol. We'll see.

Damn riley, that's like a 6" drop in the rear you're talking about isn't it? The stock rear block in my truck is 4.75" and if you take the overload spring out you get more right?
 
i think it is close to 6". it could really come back up an inch.

why do you need a spring compressor? i just put a set of 5" springs in no problem with sway bar unhooked
 
Just an easier way to go about it since I have them already. If I can't get them out which shouldn't be a problem I'll consider unhooking the sway bar. Thanks again.
 
crabbelle said:
i thought you never used aluminum for blocks? Nick if you want my truck is still down bretts if you wanna measure shocks. clamp those rear springs before you cut the the ubolts and make sure you have large c-clamps. one of mine cracked in half. did you get a used set of springs. its much easier to replace the front springs if you can take a torch or sawsall to the ones in there now.
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WHY wouldnt you use Aluminum blocks?
I have used and MANY others have used Aluminum blocks for lift blocks on Jeeps and any othe 4wd vehicle.
I was big into 4 wheeling and thats all anyone ever used.
I told Nick that the hollow aluminum blocks are garbage. I had a set fall apart after a few years of HEAVY Chicago salt from the winters.
I cant see solid Billet aluminum rotting.
Billet Aluminum is used in everything from Cars to Airplanes.:bang
 
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