Daily driver 900-1,000 HP Cummins build

S

Sedgehammer

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Howdy all. New here

I grew up tractor pulling with our farm tractors. Adding turbos to gas and diesel farm tractors and pulling in brush pulls. Family graduated to triple and quad chargered 3208 cat on alcohol. Life happened to me and i've not been around it much for the past 24 years or so. I'm 58 and counting. I know there's' a big difference in building a pulling motor vs a daily driver. This build is for my son who has more dollars than i do. We are putting this in a 1993 Land Rover defender. (yeah, i know). I have read page after page on several different forums, but a lot of conflicting info. I am of thought tho a stock rotating assembly would suffice, year depending on pistons. Studs are a must, so are upgraded push rods, valve springs, injectors and a built injection pump. Would really like input on this type of build. i have not purchased the block yet, so I can go many different directions. Trying to do this on a budget of sorts, so there's that, but will spend what's needed tho. Any and all help needed. all inputs appreciated

Thanks
sedge
 
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A stock bottom end will do 1000 several times, anything else is just buying time. Any block stiffening is a good idea. Cam bore bushings is a good idea.
 
Thanks biggy238 I am thinking a head upgrade. Prolly a stage 2. 150% over injectors. 03/04 pistons in 06, 5.9l block, if we go with a 5.9l
 
Those are the non-re-entrant bowls so probably a wise move.
I'm not sure what all a stage two entails in a cylinder head. I would be tempted to go ahead and get a milled shelf head and just get it over with. I wish I had on mine. I did a port/polish on mine and there is a ton left on the table.
Of course I'm not a professional cylinder head guy so I'm sure the right person can work wonders, but getting rid of the stock shelf makes port matching a much easier task.
 
biggy238 said:
Those are the non-re-entrant bowls so probably a wise move.
I'm not sure what all a stage two entails in a cylinder head. I would be tempted to go ahead and get a milled shelf head and just get it over with. I wish I had on mine. I did a port/polish on mine and there is a ton left on the table.
Of course I'm not a professional cylinder head guy so I'm sure the right person can work wonders, but getting rid of the stock shelf makes port matching a much easier task.
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Stage 2 from what I've gathered has had the milling done and a new plenum is included
 
If you're starting with a clean slate and want to stay stock bottom end, I'd do early style pistons, whether you start with an 03-04 short block, or add them to a later model. Freedom Racing Performance Street head would be my choice with a set of arp 625's. That head comes cut for firerings and comes with the gasket and rings. For 1k hp, I don't really see the need to go side draft. For the price difference, I'd do 200% overs over the 150's and a 14mm pump. Duals are over rated these days and just add more complications. Stick with the 06/07 harness and cm849 ecm. What's the overall use of the vehicle going to be?
 
Daily driver. Bragging rights to his group of friends n business owners I suspect to a degree. He is fairly humble, but it comes out occasionally. They currently just have 1 car and he wants this for his driver. We're totally redoing the defender. New frame, axles etc. What turbo would you suggest?
So then the the 48RE trans?

On some other forums some guys said a 12 mm would suffice with 150%. Not saying your wrong, just the why behind the suggestion

Really appreciate it!
 
A 12mm should get it done, I've always been a fan of having a bit more than needed. The price difference between 12 and 14, I'd probably do the 14. If he sticks with a 5.9 and actually want's to drive it a bit, I'd go with a compound setup. 366/484 would probably be my choice, I'd call a turbo supplier like Stainless diesel to get their input on the backside options.

Definitely do a 48re. Depending on how involved he wants to be while driving it, either go with an anteater from firepunk to control it, or a full manual valve body.
 
Phooker said:
A 12mm should get it done, I've always been a fan of having a bit more than needed. The price difference between 12 and 14, I'd probably do the 14. If he sticks with a 5.9 and actually want's to drive it a bit, I'd go with a compound setup. 366/484 would probably be my choice, I'd call a turbo supplier like Stainless diesel to get their input on the backside options.

Definitely do a 48re. Depending on how involved he wants to be while driving it, either go with an anteater from firepunk to control it, or a full manual valve body.
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Thanks!
I just spoke to him and we discussed this a bit. He wants to drive it, a lot, so it needs to be drivable as possible
Could one go with an 06/07 ecm and tune it from there and it'll also run the 48RE?
 
Absolutely. Do you have a donor truck to pull all the wiring from?
 
I would be wary of trying to pick a turbo setup until you know what your under hood real estate is going to allow. Twins would be to preferred option, but you may simply not have room.
I guess it depends on how much smoke and haze you can tolerate, how much lag and how good your tuner is. Torque converter stall and camshaft all come in to play as well.

I know a stock shelf head can do the thing, it's just a better investment to have it done up front in my opinion.

The CM849 can control the 48, it just never seems to do it accurately.
 
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How are yall planning on dealing with the weight, and torque of a "1000"hp cummins in a land Rover?
 
im always the dick so here goes.....1000hp daily driver makes me laugh....thats a bottomless pit of money and maint....i just laugh...good luck tho..would be badass to have such a thing
 
dieselbeef said:
im always the dick so here goes.....1000hp daily driver makes me laugh....thats a bottomless pit of money and maint....i just laugh...good luck tho..would be badass to have such a thing
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Yep.
 
biggy238 said:
Tear it up, rebuild/reinforce and go again. This is competition diesel not "If I had it to do over" diesel
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You seen how small a defender is, especially a 90 series. I do wish them luck though.

Probably best to mount the body on a doner standard wheelbase dodge frame.
 
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