Daily driver power, how much is possible?

cottondoc

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I've long been planning(dreaming) a big power daily driver build. I got into diesel because of the thought of having one truck that could do it all, tow, daily drive, get decent mileage and be relatively fast. I'm starting to think the truck I've been planning isn't really possible. I built up my 1995 because I like 12valves, and it has been a little disappointing in a way. I was fairly happy with its 1/4 mile pass of 12.01 at 114.9 it's first time out, but it's really laggy and smokes a lot on the street. I know this could be improved with more tuning and possibly a smaller set of compounds, but I'm thinking of moving on to building a common rail. I just don't want to spend a bunch of time and money building a common rail truck to only be disappointed in it as well. Hence, the following questions.

1. Is it even possible with a big budget(not unlimited but not the limiting factor) to build a daily driver, 3rd gen, quad cab, 4x4 48re that will make 900-1000 horsepower, run 10s at around 130, be fairly reliable and have good street manners(low turbo lag and low smoke)?

2. If it is possible, how would you do it? 6.7 liter? 6.7L block with 5.9 crank? deck plate block? I'm assuming billet rods, ARP fasteners throughout and all other needed parts. What injection pumps and what injectors? Big question in my opinion is what compounds? Because that would dictate the driving manners and horsepower potential.

If you don't think a 1,000 hp reliable daily driver is possible, then how much hp is possible with good street manners and good reliability?

3. How often would a built 48re need refreshing in a truck like this that was daily driven and did maybe 10-15 track passes a year? And would any of you even consider trying doing to do this with a built 68rfe? I've seen plenty of 48re trucks do or at least try the above, but the only 68rfe truck I've seen even come close is RJP's truck.

Again, assume a good reliable, low mile truck as a starting point and that the work and tuning would be done correctly by someone like Firepunk, Fleece, Hardway, etc....

I know these questions have been asked and answered many times, but I searched and didn't find the answers I was looking for in a recent thread. Thanks for any information. ?


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I think it's definitely possible to have a 1000hp truck that has pretty great street manors. The part that isn't very daily driverable is the fact that you're going to have extremely high maintenance costs. Things wear out way faster at that level.
 
I think it's definitely possible to have a 1000hp truck that has pretty great street manors. The part that isn't very daily driverable is the fact that you're going to have extremely high maintenance costs. Things wear out way faster at that level.



What parts in particular wear out fast, transmission clutches? What else? What if the truck was driven pretty easy most of the time on the street on a 500-700 hp tune with only occasional blasts on the higher hp tune? What do you think is a horsepower level that is sustainable as a daily driver that wouldn't cause major wear problems? Thanks again for the info


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You should hit up Lavon at Firepunk. He dd's his 1200hp 3rd gen CR from what I understand. He could give you the most information I'd assume.
 
Mine isnt quite 1k hp but I would say a solid 900. Going from a 650hp vp truck to a common rail I can tell you, you wont be disappointed. I have a built trans from lavon, II 250hp injectors, ppe dual stock pumps,fass, fire ring head, studs and 63/475 compounds with EFI tuning. I ran a 11.4 at 120 with a popping pressure relief valve in full street trim with half tank of fuel. It does rolling burnouts anytime under 70mph and very little smoke if driven properly. So for not a whole lot of money you get a lot of fun.
 
I can think of several guys i know that are doing what you describe. No deckplate needed. I'd go 6.7 if you're doing a single turbo. 47-48re is a must at 1000hp.
 
Thanks everybody for all the above input. That's what I was looking for, just confirmation a 900-1000 hp common rail with good street manners was possible. ?


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6.7 block, 5.9 crank, billet +.80 rods, Arp's all around, and a girdle. Put a Firepunk Comp 3 behind it, and you should be about as good as you can get for reliability.
 
Don't forget springs/pushrods for sure. Lol.
 
My 95 12v makes 964hp. Done 10.6s just under 129 mph with no full passes yet. Hoping for sub 10.5@130mph+ with the new full billet trans. Not a daily driver, but does get driven on the street all the time, no big deal. Very minimal smoke unless I get on it. It's key is a very modified AFC, high compression, higher stall converter and mostly manually shifting.

As far as longevity, the trans has over 200, high 10 to low 11 passes on it. The only thing I've broken is a few output shafts. Running the stock output has probably saved other parts though. Also, I race in street tires, so that's easier on driveline parts over drag radials or slicks. Even after all of those passes, it still shifts firm. I'm getting ready to freshen the trans up with all billet shafts, we'll see what the rest of it looks like. Other high maintainence items have been head gaskets (I run over 18:1 CR), and silicone couplings. Hopefully, I've got those resolved now.

Considering mine's a 12v, it shouldn't be a problem with a CR.
 
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My 95 12v makes 964hp. Done 10.6s just under 129 mph with no full passes yet. Hoping for sub 10.5@130mph+ with the new full billet trans. Not a daily driver, but does get driven on the street all the time, no big deal. Very minimal smoke unless I get on it. It's key is a very modified AFC, high compression, higher stall converter and mostly manually shifting.

As far as longevity, the trans has over 200, high 10 to low 11 passes on it. The only thing I've broken is a few output shafts. Running the stock output has probably saved other parts though. Also, I race in street tires, so that's easier on driveline parts over drag radials or slicks. Even after all of those passes, it still shifts firm. I'm getting ready to freshen the trans up with all billet shafts, we'll see what the rest of it looks like. Other high maintainence items have been head gaskets (I run over 18:1 CR), and silicone couplings. Hopefully, I've got those resolved now.

Considering mine's a 12v, it shouldn't be a problem with a CR.



What's that truck Weigh?
 
What's that truck Weigh?

I haven't had the truck weighed in a couple of years. Last time, it was something like 5980. Since then I've added a roll bar assembly, double muffler exhaust, full interior and sound system, AWIC system, and some other crap, so I'm guessing it's probably getting close to 6400.

I built the truck with a 10.50 index in mind. Then when the index came out as 10.90, I let the truck gain a few extra pounds. Still like to run a sub 10.50 though.
 
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I haven't had the truck weighed in a couple of years. Last time, it was something like 5980. Since then I've added a roll bar assembly, double muffler exhaust, full interior and sound system, AWIC system, and some other crap, so I'm guessing it's probably getting close to 6400.

I built the truck with a 10.50 index in mind. Then when the index came out as 10.90, I let the truck gain a few extra pounds. Still like to run a sub 10.50 though.



I am shooting for 5500 with a reg cab long bed. Trying to see how realistic it is. Would like between 1000-1200 hp and low 10's.
Trucks got no inner fenders. Hood stack, fuel cell in rear frame. Almost no OEM cross members. Will have 10 point cage ect.
 
Can it be done? Yes is it cheap? Not if you want reliable. If you intend it to be reliable you need either a Deckplate or sleeve engine imo. Trans you'd want to refresh at minimum once a season, aside from that oil samples will keep you in the know as good as anything again in my honest opinion


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We have a true 6.7 twin turbo farm truck that makes 1200hp on the big tune. We drive it around on a smaller tune that's around 1000hp and the driveablitiy of it is great.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. Good stuff there. ?


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We have a true 6.7 twin turbo farm truck that makes 1200hp on the big tune. We drive it around on a smaller tune that's around 1000hp and the driveablitiy of it is great.
It's for sale too isn't it? Just in case the OP wants one already done.

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It's for sale too isn't it? Just in case the OP wants one already done.

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It's a regular cab right? I think I know the truck you're talking about. I'm really wanting a quad cab, but I would definitely consider a truck that was already built.


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