Dang Pump Wont Be Still When Taking Gear Off

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GOLDDUSTERS5703

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have set the timing on the truck several times w/o a problem... now went to set it again today and the everytime i go to take the gear off when it pops the pump jumps a lot! for instance im tryin to set the lift to 7.xx on the guage and once the gear pops loose the pump spins to 2.xx. it acts like the pump is wound up and when u release the gear it unwinds. i've tried multiple times with multiple settings. even tried pinning the pump at top dead center and the pin was in a bind when the gear was taken loose. HELP PLEASE!
thanks,
jeremy
 
Use a vise-grip with a shop towel on it to turn the shaft, after push on the gear and tight the nut.
 
Try loosening all the injector nuts. The pressure in the barrels seems to make them spin.
 
how you doing it when you set it?

i have been told to pop the gear off before you even try to set the timing and then put it on with about 25-50 ft/lbs then take the nut loose and then set your timing. then when you pop the gear it wont move, well it shouldnt anyways i havnt had it move yet on me.
 
Why do you care if the pump turns over when you're pulling the gear off? It doesn't matter at that point.

Remove the gear, clean off the shaft and gear, roll the pump over until you get the desired plunger lift and then put the gear on. It can sometimes be tricky to get the exact number you're looking for, but I've never had a problem with it staying where I've wanted it.
 
Chevycummins said:
how you doing it when you set it?

i have been told to pop the gear off before you even try to set the timing and then put it on with about 25-50 ft/lbs then take the nut loose and then set your timing. then when you pop the gear it wont move, well it shouldnt anyways i havnt had it move yet on me.
Click to expand...

Thats how I have always set mine.
 
mondtster said:
Why do you care if the pump turns over when you're pulling the gear off? It doesn't matter at that point.

Remove the gear, clean off the shaft and gear, roll the pump over until you get the desired plunger lift and then put the gear on. It can sometimes be tricky to get the exact number you're looking for, but I've never had a problem with it staying where I've wanted it.
Click to expand...

Most people use the pump gear to roll the pump over. They just leave the pump shaft nut tight and roll the motor over till the desired lift is reached. Then pop the gear off and roll the motor back. When you do it, how do you roll the pump over?
 
I have had the same trouble and finally figured out a trick. After breaking the nut loose put it back on just touching the gear. Pop the gear loose but it will not be loose. Loosen the nut and then pop the gear off again. When I use this method I have never had one jump on me.
 
teddybear said:
Most people use the pump gear to roll the pump over. They just leave the pump shaft nut tight and roll the motor over till the desired lift is reached. Then pop the gear off and roll the motor back. When you do it, how do you roll the pump over?
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I typically use a rag and a vise grip or something similar to roll the pump over. I always pull the front timing cover off so I can get everything nice and clean.

Now that I'm thinking about it more, I'm guessing that you guys are trying to do it with the timing cover still in place? I assume that this is why you use the gear to roll it over? I can understand trying to do it that way, but don't care for it because it would be much harder to get the shaft and gear clean enough to keep the timing from slipping.
 
I have never had a problem keeping the gear from slipping as long as you just spray some brake clean around the shaft.

Its just a lot of extra work to pull the cover seems to me like.

Eric
 
Cummins Driver said:
I have never had a problem keeping the gear from slipping as long as you just spray some brake clean around the shaft.

Its just a lot of extra work to pull the cover seems to me like.

Eric
Click to expand...

Schied has a nice adjustable pump gear easy fix just change the pills to desired timing
 
teddybear said:
Most people use the pump gear to roll the pump over. They just leave the pump shaft nut tight and roll the motor over till the desired lift is reached. Then pop the gear off and roll the motor back. When you do it, how do you roll the pump over?
Click to expand...

I made something I saw on here a while back to do it. Took an extra pump nut, and welded a washer and a smaller nut on top of it. This way I can pop the gear and screw my little tool on, run a bolt trough the nut I welded on to act as a jam, and then turn the pump to desired lift, loosen the jam bolt, and put the regualr pump nut back on, works pretty slick, in both directions.
 
Thanks so much for all the imput and advise. I was adjusting the timing w/ the timing with the front cover still on. I tried to find another nut to double nut and adjust but unfortunately I couldn't find one. I reluctantly adjusted with a rag and vise grips. It did the job but I gaulded the threads a little bit. I tried breaking all the lines loose thinking a pressure build up was the problem- no luck. I also tried tightnening the gear just enough so it would stick and adjusting and breaking loose- no luck. For the future I'm going to run down another nut to double nut and adjust that away. Thanks everyone for all of your input and help!
 
Make a pointer and mark true TDC on the dampner. Roll the engine over tell you get your desired plunger lift. Remove nut, pop gear off shaft, and roll the engine back to true TDC. Clean shaft well with brake clean, torque tell engine bars over wich will be right around 175/180#lbs. Recheck plunger lift at TDC to see if the shaft moved on you, I leave 1 puller bolt in the gear to give me something to hold the gear out on so it's not touching the pump shaft, works well for me. This is the way Ive learned to do it on my own, it makes more since to me than rolling the pump to plunger lift, no? Ryan
 
Willy91 said:
I made something I saw on here a while back to do it. Took an extra pump nut, and welded a washer and a smaller nut on top of it. This way I can pop the gear and screw my little tool on, run a bolt trough the nut I welded on to act as a jam, and then turn the pump to desired lift, loosen the jam bolt, and put the regualr pump nut back on, works pretty slick, in both directions.
Click to expand...

This is prolly what you are talking about. I made a few of these.

Timingtool.jpg
 
GOLDDUSTERS5703 said:
I reluctantly adjusted with a rag and vise grips. It did the job but I gaulded the threads a little bit.
Click to expand...

If you galled the threads a bit it sounds like you got the vise grips a bit too tight. I've done several trucks and pumps this way with no issues. It does make me a bit nervous too though so I make sure I am extra careful.

GOLDDUSTERS5703 said:
I tried breaking all the lines loose thinking a pressure build up was the problem- no luck.
Click to expand...

I don't think there is going to be any pressure build up in the injection lines unless you had the key on and the shutoff solenoid pulled up.
 
mondtster said:
I don't think there is going to be any pressure build up in the injection lines unless you had the key on and the shutoff solenoid pulled up.
Click to expand...

There is. Its called residual line pressure, usually about two-thirds of NOP.
 
FosterW said:
There is. Its called residual line pressure, usually about two-thirds of NOP.
Click to expand...

Let me rephrase that. I don't believe that there is going to be much, if any pressure in the pump. The plungers have to be rotated to the no fuel position when it is shut off or else it will stay running. The fuel should bypass and not create pressure with the plungers in that position...

There might be some in the line. Not sure if there is some sort of check valve in the DV holder or not.
 
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