Decisions

12vChapa

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Nov 29, 2011
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I have a 1990 w250 getrag 5spd. I my goal with the truck is 450-500hp. So far with the truck is 4in turbo back exhaust, grinded down the fuel pin, fuel screw has about 6 turns in, and a BHAF i do have gauges. It is my DD, i do alot of towing trailers 4,000 to 12,000 lbs in the mountains and on interstates.

Want to do
hx35/hx55
Injectors?
500hp clutch, Brand I dont know yet
3;73 gears
fass fuel pump
steed speed manifold
stage 2 or 3 pin
intercooler
arp headstuds
fire oring eventually
valve springs?

Any changes that I need to do?
 
You'll want/need a larger set of twins to make that much power.

I'd look at a 60-62 over a 472-475. I would run a 60/68/.7 (maybe .8) over a S472/1.10 T6

You'll need valve springs to handle the kind of boost required for that much power. You'll also probably find that it will require enough timing to make you o ring it at some point. Studs probably won't hold....it may though.

Injectors - Non I/c - I'd run 370s that have had nozzle work to flow around 80lpm.

After that... it's gonna take a retarded amount of tuning to make it be able to tow very well. It is hard to tow with an injector that is large enough to get maximum hp out of a ve pump.
 
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Are you set in stone on wanting to stay with the VE pump? If those are the rwhp figures you're after, the P7100 pump found on the '97-'98 12 Valve engines would be better suited for the job, they are much easier to make high horsepower numbers with.

Also, for what its worth, I recall having a conversation with a man who knows his way around these trucks and he mentioned right around 400rwhp is where the stock cooling system will fail to keep our trucks cool while towing. It is certainly possible to tow with those horsepower figures but if you plan on towing a lot I would look at a lower horsepower goal.
 
X2 on what is stated above. i WAS maybe at 400 HP in my 1stgen. couldnt tow more than a car without it getting toasty. had to use W/M to keep things cool on hills, not even big hills. that was with a 64/71/14 and big injectors. i used to have 5x.012's and a 62/71/14 on it, had it loaded down pretty heavy a few times with that set up. did ok, but had to keep an eye on the EGT's. towing heavy with a VE motor and making 400-500 HP with it dont really go together.
 
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Like stated above.....good point on the stock cooling system. It's limit is around 400rwhp. Once the engine is producing over that, things are gonna get very hot very fast (talking coolant temps).

However.... you aren't using near that towing down the road. So it is hard to say whether it can keep up or not. The issue comes with running as much timing as is required with that large of injectors, due to how low the injection pressure becomes. Loads of timing greatly strains the coolant system.
 
As above, plus non I/C radiator is tiny which limits cooling capacity even more. Throw an intercooler in front of it and it gets even less fresh air. I ran a 3rd gen intercooler on my 89 with a 60mm h1c hybrid and some edm injectors. Towing over 8k the rad just couldn't keep up. Also, food for thought, the 9mm head on that engine is probably cracked between all the valve seats by now and not necessarily a great candidate for a performance build. Not trying to piss in your cheerios, just speaking from experience with an almost identical truck. If it were me, I would build a set of small compounds and tune to where you don't have to drive with your eyes glued to the gauges and let the horsepower fall where it may.

Sent from my SCH-S960L using Tapatalk
 
Good advice. I really don't know of anything that is legal to haul that 300rwhp won't pull up any grade.

Don't get me wrong though... it sure is nice to have the power to accelerate up any hill with anything that you can put to it as well.
 
Yes that would of course be of that way.

Don't worry, I'm not one to say that that is not an "old school" way of doing it. But most still know about what size that is, in flow. Many still will go cross eyed still when you say what they truly flow in fluid. Because it has yet to become what I call "common wording".
 
So out of curiosity, what hone size would 80LPM in air be equivalent to?
 
That's a loaded question, as simply hone size doesn't have complete control on actual fuel flow. Which is the answer you are looking for. But I'm also a fan of extrude honing...where as I BELIEVE you are not, is that correct?

But out of curiosity, what size injector would you recommend in a 450-500rwhp ve application.
 
I believe extrude honing is a great process. I am looking for an example of what hone size in either nozzle type flows in air for a comparison, don't worry I have a few examples to compare it to.

So, say an 80LPM micro-blind Marine nozzle is 5x0.016", this is my area of interest.
 
On the chart that I am used to... a std. 5x16 micro SAC with no pintle mods NORMALLY flows in the 74-76lpm range.... therefore an 80lpm injector has similar flow to about a 5x17 micro SAC.

However....the reason I say an 80lpm as opposed to a 5x17 is because DDP or other companies who do the extrude honing.... will start with smaller nozzle. Depending upon the method of extrude honing and the quality control. One may want to edm it out slightly to the 5x14 size. Extrude honing doesn't open the hole up the same as an edming does and therefore in the end... when one actually measures the hole, it would be smaller than 5x17.
 
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No, sir. (reason I added with "no pintle mods", is because...yes pintle and pintle mods will change flow, which the "air method" does not show). Again though Weston...I'm not saying the air method is better (or even nearly as good).
 
Not meaning to debate, just curious to see how the values compare, Thanks.
 
I was taking it wrong....


What I am thinking to get that 80lpm. Take marine 370 nozzle.... no pintle mods and then do 1 of 2 things. Either edm it to about a 5x13.5 size and then do approx. 3 "flows" with a wet media to reach an 80lpm ish mark. Or take the stock nozzle and do approx. 5-6 flows to get up around that 80lpm ish mark... the second method would obviously be cheaper, but would have a tendency to be much dirtier (hazier) at idle.
 
Thanks for all your input!!
Yes I would like to stay with the ve. What would be a good combination for my truck truck for a little more hp and a dd.
 
There are a lot of different combinations that work great, so there is really no helpful answer to that. It really depends on the hp goal and what hp/tq is really needed for you.
 
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