drive pressure question

N

northernslope

lookin for snow eh!
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Messages
52
I am looking at installing a twin set-up from II that uses the factory turbo to retain the exhaust brake. the question that I have is with tuning from smarty and 1 day from efillive i am worried about drive pressure and lauching head gaskets. with bigger injectors and studs plus some other work i want to do is it better to ditch the factory turbo and go a differant route or is there a way to tune it properly?? the is a 2010 mega with a auto the trans upgrade is coming soon to deal with all the extra power and lift kit thanks for the input
 
There has been big arguments over this topic many times some like the vgt most don't but just a matter of opinion though just from some experiences I've had with the stocker and dp haven't been very good. the stock turbo will not flow enough air to support very much more than stock HP so if your looking into stix and turbos and such I would forget the vgt. sounds like your looking to be a dd? if so a 66/74/14 is a pretty good driveable turbo that will hold a decent amount of power
 
I've got a 66mm silver bullet on the way to slap on the truck in my sig. I guess we'll see what it does with my setup...I should have some feedback by Wednesday.
 
northernslope said:
i am worried about drive pressure and lauching head gaskets.
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Headgasket failure has no relation to exhaust pressure in any way. Combustion in the engine is over 2000psi, 60+psi of backpressure in the exhaust manifold means nothing to the engine's durability.

High exhaust temperatures during DPF regeneration and high combustion temperatures from the EGR are entirely at fault for headgasket problems. If you delete the DPF and tune out the regeneration programming you will not have a headgasket problem.
 
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Good and bad news on the 66. It had awesome power for the 50 or so miles that i had a transmission to hold it...
 
300D said:
Headgasket failure has no relation to exhaust pressure in any way. Combustion in the engine is over 2000psi, 60+psi of backpressure in the exhaust manifold means nothing to the engine's durability.

High exhaust temperatures during DPF regeneration and high combustion temperatures from the EGR are entirely at fault for headgasket problems. If you delete the DPF and tune out the regeneration programming you will not have a headgasket problem.
Click to expand...

You do not own a 6.7 do you? Go search headgasket failures on 6.7's and then post about them rather than give bad info to people.
 
300D said:
Headgasket failure has no relation to exhaust pressure in any way. Combustion in the engine is over 2000psi, 60+psi of backpressure in the exhaust manifold means nothing to the engine's durability.

High exhaust temperatures during DPF regeneration and high combustion temperatures from the EGR are entirely at fault for headgasket problems. If you delete the DPF and tune out the regeneration programming you will not have a headgasket problem.
Click to expand...

Backhoe man said:
You do not own a 6.7 do you? Go search headgasket failures on 6.7's and then post about them rather than give bad info to people.
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backhoe man is right, in theory drive pressure doesnt have anything to do with head gaskets blowing, but it has affects on other things cylinder pressure etc, and will blow a head gasket on a 6.7. This has been a heated topic for a while. While drive pressure itself is not blowing the gaskets, the bandaid to fix the problem is a waste gate or different turbo to drop the drive pressure back to the 1:1 safe range. If your running a hotter tune on a 6.7 drive pressure can easily be double the boost pressure with the stock vgt turbo.
 
Ive got the II Twin Set you are talking about

I dont have a drive pressure gauge set up, but I do know that the Wastegated setup they sell with their twin set is not compatable with the VGT, due to the fact that the VGT uses drive pressure to control its vanes.
 
I believe II has a wastegate setup for the VGT twin sets now, you might want to call them. I am pretty sure a few people are running them.
 
apocalypse1812 said:
Ive got the II Twin Set you are talking about

I dont have a drive pressure gauge set up, but I do know that the Wastegated setup they sell with their twin set is not compatable with the VGT, due to the fact that the VGT uses drive pressure to control its vanes.
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The Wastegate isnt Compatable with the Stock Turbo...

The Wastegated set should only be used with an aftermarket small charger...
 
Im with Backhoe man! Do yourself a favor and get a turbo that breathes..
 
apocalypse1812 said:
The Wastegate isnt Compatable with the Stock Turbo...

The Wastegated set should only be used with an aftermarket small charger...
Click to expand...

the waste gate is designed to be run with the stock turbo, thus the reason they designed there kit to bolt to the stock manifold on one of the egr cooler ports. Search the forum there a a couple running it with the II vgt twin kit, I think all the kits come with it now also.
 
The Factory VGT uses drive pressure to control it self, right?

With the wastegate hooked up Heaviest spring/Smallest Orface, I cannot build more than like 25psi of boost.

With nothing else done, besides disconnecting the wastegate, it makes 55psi of boost.

The wastegate opening bypasses the VGT Releasing the drive pressure that goes to the sensor that keeps the nozzles closed to build boost on the turbo.



Or maybe I have no Idea what I'm doing when I set up this wastegate, Which is probably true....
 
All I know is that mine doesnt work like it should with the wastegate, and works great without.
 
The turbos are electronically controlled, or are you saying the electronics look at the drive pressure to adjust the vanes?
 
The manifold on the 6.7 has a port that goes to the water neck, that has a sensor for drive pressure that helps control the turbo.
 
Sounds like your wastegate is opening way to early if u can't build over 25psi

Sent using tapatalk for android
 
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