driveline vibration continued....

davem3261

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvCHiCeLueY

I'm still chasing a vibration at highway speeds that I can't seem to solve. The video is the truck on jack stands in the garage in 2wd. Tires removed. Listen for the noise when I apply the brakes to load it up. Noise only occurs under load. Coasting it's smooth. After that I removed the rear driveshaft and repeated in 4wd. No noise. That eliminated trans and transfer case as suspects.

New parts. Rebuilt transfer case, 5" aluminum driveshaft with 1480 u joints, replaced pinion and carrier bearings in rear end.

I'm leaning towards the gears or differential. Truck has 78k now, rear gone through twice now. Dealer did it at 50k for a grinding noise under warranty. I just did it again because it had a hard spot when spinning the pinion by hand. New bearing fixed that. I need some ideas before I throw more parts at it or other ideas on how to pinpoint the problem.
 
What did your gear mesh look like when put the rear end back together? Any visible odd/uneven wear on the pinion or ring gear?
 
Sounds like a phasing/joint angle problem

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I don't care if your carrier bearing is brand new, all my money is on it.
Either that, or the angle of it.

I had a similar issue after changing my suspension. I did some math, moved it 1.5" down, and ALL of my vibrations went away.
 
I don't care if your carrier bearing is brand new, all my money is on it.
Either that, or the angle of it.

I had a similar issue after changing my suspension. I did some math, moved it 1.5" down, and ALL of my vibrations went away.
I don't always explain myself, but yes, the carrier position is creating a vibration when the pinion rises. I'd bet it's borderline what can be tolerated and when the pinion angle changes the vibration is evident

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I don't care if your carrier bearing is brand new, all my money is on it.
Either that, or the angle of it.

I had a similar issue after changing my suspension. I did some math, moved it 1.5" down, and ALL of my vibrations went away.

You mean the bearing in the center of a 2 piece drive shaft? The op has a 5" aluminum shaft so I'm guessing it's a 1 piece. He still could have a u-joint angle problem with a 1 piece shaft.
 
The OP has a quad cab short bed according to his sig. That truck wouldn't have a carrier bearing.
 
You mean the bearing in the center of a 2 piece drive shaft? The op has a 5" aluminum shaft so I'm guessing it's a 1 piece. He still could have a u-joint angle problem with a 1 piece shaft.
I was onto that this morning and then he drew me off

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Yes it is a 1 piece aluminum shaft. I never even thought about pinion angle. It does have 2" non tapered blocks in the rear. I will check that out.
 
Pinion angle is definitely off. I jacked up the rear end until the pinion yoke was plumb. Transfer case is pointed down. I need to go buy an angle finder to see what angle shim I need. Thanks all.
 

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Ah, my bad. I read carrier bearing at OP and thought he was talking about the 2-pc shaft center one.

Driveshafts are easy to balance, getting your angles right takes a little bit of work, but it's definitely worth it! $.02
 
It wasn't off much at all. The rear end was .7° nose down. I put 3/8" worth of fender shims under the Transmission mount which brought it to .1° nose down. No improvement on the noise and vibration.
 
Did you check to see if the drive shaft is in phase? Some are manufactured out of phase intentionally

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I did. Driveshaft us good. I put a dial indicator on it. About .020 run out, doesn't seem like that is an issue. I'm going to put the stock one back in to see if that does anything different.
 
Not sure how this happened. I put 3 clicks of preload on the carrier. Somehow the right side spun and tightened up even more. The caps were torqued at 175. I checked before removing. I looked for a 4.10 srw used axle. They are non existent. I think I'm going to buy new gears and bearing and try this again.
 

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That adjusting ring that looks beat to death was on the side that didn't spin. Can't explain that.
 
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