Dynamat alternative?

Can you use a combination of these types of sound deadeners/blockers?

To block road noise. I'm not looking for any audio performance. Just don't want to hear the road as much.
 
LORDDiESEL said:
I'm a carpenter by trade. I use this to install windows and can buy it dirt cheap. I'd be pissed if i bought the "good stuff" and it ends up being the same stuff.
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Tests have been done.....it's not the same.
 
Gibson said:
Can you use a combination of these types of sound deadeners/blockers?

To block road noise. I'm not looking for any audio performance. Just don't want to hear the road as much.
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Yes that is the best way to achieve keeping wanted noise in, and unwanted noise out.

It is a 3 layer combination. First deadener on the metal panels. Then ccf on top of it, then MLV over the ccf.

Stop resonating, decouple sound blocker, block sound.


As far as the guy saying it is peel and seal.....you are very sadly mistaken. Peel and seal is a waterproof membrane for that purpose....to seal out water. Most of these are a dedicated combination of foil thickness and butyl rubber adhesive to achieve the least resonance at certain frequencies.
 
Best one to use is HushMat, puts the whooping on dynamat by ease of installation and dampens all the way to 500*
 
not enoughsmoke said:
Home Depot peal and seal
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Are you on dope? How many times does it have to be proven that that asphalt based junk isn't even on the same planet as a good constrained layer butyl based dampener?
Look at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com not just for good products but for test results that prove without a doubt that peel n seal is junk for this application.
I've used a bunch of different stuff...different thicknesses of butyl and foil...I still buy Dynamat Extreme. Not because its necessarily the best but because I have a hook up and can get it cheaper than the other stuff.
 
Audiotechnix, second skin damplifier Lizard skin are all good IMHO. Audiotechnix 80mil being my personal favorite.


Sent from the BooBoo Bus
 
Truck is 3/4 done and without the door panels this thing is way different. It's almos erie how quiet it is.
 
Hushmat works pretty well. My Reg cab fummins was pretty dang quiet.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
 
CHEMMINS said:
There are a few decent companies out there.

For price to performance Audio Technix is the best bang for the buck. Murdermat is decent as well.

Secondskin is not even owned by the guy who got it all going. And he (original owner) is a dick on many levels.

B-Quiet is an asphalt based deadener and it will dry out and lose it's ability to reduce vibrations. You want a butyl based deadener.

In order for it to work, it needs a constraining layer (foil) and the butyl. The foil trys to stay rigid, and the butyl shakes with the resonating panel, creating heat instead.

Deadener as stated only reduces vibrations, and does naturally block some sound.

In order to block sound you need closed cell foam ccf and mlv or mass loaded vinyl. Foam in itself does little to block noise, as the wavelengths are so long they pass right through the foam because of low density. The foam is used as a decoupler for the mlv to the deadener. The mlv is heavy at 1 lb/sq ft or even 2 lb per sq/ft. This is the barrier that blocks sound. But it must be decoupled from the deadener so it does not resonate either.
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All that being said... What would you use on your personal vehicle?

YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Truck is 3/4 done and without the door panels this thing is way different. It's almos erie how quiet it is.
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How many square feet do you estimate you used? How many layers do you plan on doing?
 
I'm probably up to 70 maybe. I put two layers down In a few places, still not completely done with both doors, also left a section on the back of the cab bare, cab is broke there and I don't want to melt this stuff when I go welding it up. 50 squat feet is enough for the entire floor no problem. (reg cab dodge)

Overall I think it's one of the better things I've done to this truck. I find myself turning the radio down to make sure my engine isn't making weird noises LOL it's also date worthy now! I'm not hesitant to throw a chick in this thing anymore.
 
Personally I use 80 mil AudioTechnix.

I have some other stuff in my rig as well. But it was very expensive and very hard to get. For my doors and pillars and such, and all of my wifes ride, have AT 80 mil in them. I do one layer over pretty much everything. No need for more. I do a layer in the inside of the outer door skins, and then a layer on the inner doorskin, after making patch panels to cover the gaping holes on the inner doorskin.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
I find myself turning the radio down to make sure my engine isn't making weird noises LOL it's also date worthy now! I'm not hesitant to throw a chick in this thing anymore.
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Hey I've experienced the same exact thing this week! Except I went from a 1994 Chevy Cummins to a 2008 6.4...I always turn the radio down cause I get paranoid lol
 
CHEMMINS said:
Yes that is the best way to achieve keeping wanted noise in, and unwanted noise out.

It is a 3 layer combination. First deadener on the metal panels. Then ccf on top of it, then MLV over the ccf.

Stop resonating, decouple sound blocker, block sound.


As far as the guy saying it is peel and seal.....you are very sadly mistaken. Peel and seal is a waterproof membrane for that purpose....to seal out water. Most of these are a dedicated combination of foil thickness and butyl rubber adhesive to achieve the least resonance at certain frequencies.
Click to expand...

Same setup I did. Got the CLD and CCF from Don @ http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Don's prices on CLD and CCF are great, but I found the MLV at about half the price of his here: http://soundproofing.org/infopages/flooring.htm. Warning: the shipping on the MLV is outrageous no matter who you order it from.
 
95-12valve said:
Just ordered some fatmat, hope it's worth it...
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as its just a sound deadener, it works fantastically. in my folks truck (12v dually) it was a lot more comfortable driving it the last 300 miles towing to the races and back..
If you want mercedes quiet, then get the ccf and mlv over it..
No matter what you do, its an improvement over nothing. just dont get the peel and seal stuff. it will break down and fall off, then leave a huge mess you cant clean up..
 
[ame="http://s470.photobucket.com/user/95cummins12valve/media/23C8A679-1F7E-490B-88E2-131BD9B35210-10366-00000458E5F808B8_zps89a11b6a.jpg.html"]23C8A679-1F7E-490B-88E2-131BD9B35210-10366-00000458E5F808B8_zps89a11b6a.jpg Photo by 95cummins12valve | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s470.photobucket.com/user/95cummins12valve/media/AD56D352-D5E4-42EF-B401-8E3119182C90-10366-000004573DEC63E8_zps27efda01.jpg.html"]AD56D352-D5E4-42EF-B401-8E3119182C90-10366-000004573DEC63E8_zps27efda01.jpg Photo by 95cummins12valve | Photobucket[/ame]

I'm not sure why photobucket isn't posting pics right, the carpet is that spruce blue color from the blue interior 12 valves. I think once the grey stuff get back in it won't look too bad. It was free from the dealership, so I can't really complain.
 
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