Dynatrac Free Spin kit or Posi Lock

dieselracer07

dieselracer07

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Are any of you running the free spin hub kit. If so, how do you like it? What kind of mpg increase did you see? I'm looking into them. I'll probably get a posi lock kit for now, until I save up for the dynatrac. My actuator isn't working right. For now, I locked the fork in the engaged position, so it's a live axle all the time.

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Are you dead set of Dynatrac? There are quite a few other makers of free spin kits like EMS, Solid Axle, Yukon Gear, to name a few. And you can always swap to ford knuckles as a DIY kit.

I've had a Posi-Lok on my truck for a few years, it works very well for what it is. But having the better bearings and completely disengaging the front axle make me dream of locking hubs.
 
White Knight said:
Are you dead set of Dynatrac? There are quite a few other makers of free spin kits like EMS, Solid Axle, Yukon Gear, to name a few. And you can always swap to ford knuckles as a DIY kit.

I've had a Posi-Lok on my truck for a few years, it works very well for what it is. But having the better bearings and completely disengaging the front axle make me dream of locking hubs.
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I haven't really looked at any other companies. I just started looking into the free spin stuff and Dynatrac was the only one I had heard of before. I mainly want it for the reliability and fuel mileage. The vacuum activated system is chitty and unreliable. Completely disengaging the front axle has to help with fuel mileage as well. It has to help with differential longevity too.
What all is required to DIY?

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I did basically the same thing as the link posted above cost me about $750 all in. The only problem is that the passenger side axle likes pop out of the collar on the cad which can leave you stranded...... EMS offroad and Yukon gear make a one piece passenger side axle with a new seal for under $300 and I will be doing this sooner than later. Other than that its been a great mod and costs less than a set of unit bearings and I did notice an improvement in mileage nothing huge but an increase.
 
TB1 said:
I did basically the same thing as the link posted above cost me about $750 all in. The only problem is that the passenger side axle likes pop out of the collar on the cad which can leave you stranded...... EMS offroad and Yukon gear make a one piece passenger side axle with a new seal for under $300 and I will be doing this sooner than later. Other than that its been a great mod and costs less than a set of unit bearings and I did notice an improvement in mileage nothing huge but an increase.
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I think I'm gonna go the junkyard route. I figure I can slowly collect all the parts. I'll definitely be going with the one piece shaft.

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The main reason for me doing it the way I did was Living in Canada the cost to ship stuff and the border/brokerage fee's would have added hundreds of dollars to it making it no where near as cost effective. The EMS off road kit is less than $1000 and more than likely free or cheap shipping via UPS within the USA and everything is brand new and will bolt on out of the box. The other route parts need to be sourced and the spindles re drilled which is no big deal just time consuming and you my end up saving less than a couple hundred bucks?from buying it through EMS either way it's a great mod to do and the bearings are stocked just about everywhere so you will never be stuck.
 
I did the 35 spline EMS kit with heavy duty one piece shaft on my 12v and absoultly loved it, Phuck unit bearings!
Got the dynatrac kit on the 05 and its also a good quality kit.
 
I did the EMS kit on my 05. I did the junkyard kit on my 96. Think by the time I bought new bearings and rounding up all the parts, I could have bought an EMS kit for about same money.
 
I installed a 35 spline EMS kit on my 12v some years ago. Good kit. My favourite part is that most of the pieces are OEM Ford, so its easy and cheap to get, and I was able to switch to DRW hubs for cheap, instead of going back to the manufacturer like you would for Dynatrac. The hubs also don't stick out nearly as far as the dynatrac, which look horrendous, especially on a wheel with a decent amount of backspacing. With my H2's and 285/75 tires, the lockout was flush with the sidewall of the tire. With my DRW hubs, the lockout is only 1/4" past the wheel, and well within the lug nuts.
 
I was going to do the same on my truck, but plans have changed. I have NIB Ford spindles, and a set of 35 spline lock outs. If your interested.
 
cummins2getu said:
I was going to do the same on my truck, but plans have changed. I have NIB Ford spindles, and a set of 35 spline lock outs. If your interested.
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PM me a price please. I'm planning on slowly accumulating all the parts so it's not such a big hit on my account all at once lol

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For roughly the same price, you could buy a Ford KP HP60 and swap it in and sell the old dodge diff to recoup some money. Plus, better brakes in the end.
 
I have the Dynatrac kit, and I love it. You will never save enough fuel from gained milage to pay for the kit, but you get 2wd low range which is nice for backing on pavement loaded. You lose a little vibration in the steering wheel, and your front knuckle u-joints will last forever.
 
Dtruck1 said:
I have the Dynatrac kit, and I love it. You will never save enough fuel from gained milage to pay for the kit, but you get 2wd low range which is nice for backing on pavement loaded. You lose a little vibration in the steering wheel, and your front knuckle u-joints will last forever.
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The reliability and cheaper upkeep is the most appealing part to me. The gain in mileage should be close to worth it over the life of the truck. With as much as I have invested in thus truck, I'll have to get a million miles out of it to make it all worth it anyhow lol

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dieselracer07 said:
The reliability and cheaper upkeep is the most appealing part to me. The gain in mileage should be close to worth it over the life of the truck. With as much as I have invested in thus truck, I'll have to get a million miles out of it to make it all worth it anyhow lol

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Right, don't believe the people that claim 2-3 mpg gains. I saw maybe 1 mpg. So small it was hard to calculate any gain in mileage at all. On the plus side, I just replaced all my seals, bearings, and races for $150.00.
 
I've been really considering doing the Ford conversion on my truck(s). I'd love to do this conversion simply for the fact if getting rid of the unit bearings. I would love to have bearings I can just pull out, pack with grease and put it back together. Then I could do it every fall to know my plow truck isn't going to go down.

Not to hi-jack your thread but what has to be drilled out for the Ford conversion? How do you deal with ABS on a later 2nd gen Dodge?
 
RockinRam96 said:
I've been really considering doing the Ford conversion on my truck(s). I'd love to do this conversion simply for the fact if getting rid of the unit bearings. I would love to have bearings I can just pull out, pack with grease and put it back together. Then I could do it every fall to know my plow truck isn't going to go down.

Not to hi-jack your thread but what has to be drilled out for the Ford conversion? How do you deal with ABS on a later 2nd gen Dodge?
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From what I've read, the Ford hub has 5 holes. Dodge is 4 holes. I think you have to drill to match.

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dieselracer07 said:
From what I've read, the Ford hub has 5 holes. Dodge is 4 holes. I think you have to drill to match.

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Possibly, but that is on the spindle. I thought the Ford spindles were used as part of the conversion. That way everything from the spindle out would be Ford. Use the spindle, stub shaft, bearings, hubs, calipers and rotors from the Ford.
 
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