Dyno numbers!!! :(

93-12smoke said:
Where is your power coming in at with your rpms?

Powering my ksb on gave me about 20hp.
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Ksb gave me almost 50hp before I jumped a tooth. After the a little tweak, and a tooth skipped it does nothing but cause me to loose power. Which is fine, I can tune around that. The power comes on really quick, but from John watching, and by looking at the dyno sheet, I've flat outgrown my twins. They are coming off. When you sence your timing, and you lose upper-mid and top end, you know you've choked out.

Cummins club get that leak fixed and I bet you'll see a difference. And that stock converter can come out being not all that bad. Brad's daughter's truck has done better than I with a stock auto and single. Haha
 
Yeah, my timing is definitely a little off. You are flowing way more fuel than me and with twins i would have expected higher numbers than that.
 
I may also be overadvanced. If I lose power with the ksb on it's as if the dynamic is full swing. Well if the dynamic full swing loses power when engaged manually, then it will do the same when it's done automatically. Overadvanced is overadvanced no matter how you look at it. It's just a though. I don't have a timing light.
 
Where did we figure your timing was at? Maybe with that 60mm/70mm setup we can get it around 20*.
 
For tuning sake we run 27 degrees with the ksb off. I think there still some left on the table to play with. ;) were taking baby steps until she's comfortable. Then its time to turn up the wick.
 
Might have to take a road trip to beautiful fortuna and barrow that nifty little light again. Haha. I'm going to back it down for sure, for driving around sake. Thanks for the tip Brad.
 
How does 27° correlate to the 1/8", 1/4" or to the head adjustments everyone does? I don't have a timing light either. When i got my injectors they advised me to run more timing due to the higher pop pressures they set the injectors at.

Sorry for the hijack
 
Sorry Eric, another hijack :)
Brad, on the hot pipe you built is it schedule 40 black pipe or just regular exhaust piping?

Again sorry Eric.
 
I've always been told to run the thinnest injector washers to get the spray farther into the bowl especially if your running higher timing.

What pump mods do you have? and you need a lockup trans, trust me you will never look back.

I've hit that same point before where I thought I had too much timing being jumped a tooth and then bumped up another 1/8" with my old 12mm pump and it would start to sputter and cough at that point at around 2300 rpms, so I then backed it off and retarded the pump 1/8" and it ran fine. With my new 14mm pump and injector setup I've ran the pump to the head and jumped a tooth for pulling and what not. It still has that sputter at about 2500 rpm but once you go past that, the thing will go nuts. Not sure what degree I'm at yet but I know it ran good. After asking many others I came up with the theory that when I reached that sputter point it was the point where the injectors were starting to spray on the crown of the piston bowl and then started to spray outside after higher rpms? all I know is that it ran dang good and I'm yet to get on a loaded dyno with my new setup. Timing is a big key to a VE truck.
 
You need to go dyno somewhere and see what that thing is putting down. One of the only other 14mm VE's I know of that is running strong.
 
Smokin ACE said:
I've always been told to run the thinnest injector washers to get the spray farther into the bowl especially if your running higher timing.

What pump mods do you have? and you need a lockup trans, trust me you will never look back.

I've hit that same point before where I thought I had too much timing being jumped a tooth and then bumped up another 1/8" with my old 12mm pump and it would start to sputter and cough at that point at around 2300 rpms, so I then backed it off and retarded the pump 1/8" and it ran fine. With my new 14mm pump and injector setup I've ran the pump to the head and jumped a tooth for pulling and what not. It still has that sputter at about 2500 rpm but once you go past that, the thing will go nuts. Not sure what degree I'm at yet but I know it ran good. After asking many others I came up with the theory that when I reached that sputter point it was the point where the injectors were starting to spray on the crown of the piston bowl and then started to spray outside after higher rpms? all I know is that it ran dang good and I'm yet to get on a loaded dyno with my new setup. Timing is a big key to a VE truck.
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Ive got the truck a half turn from runaway, a ground fuel pin referenced off my primary, and a 366 spring. pretty much the basics.

I fooled around with my timing and pulled it back some. It runs much better. Before if I flipped the ksb on it would lose power. Now with it on, the truck pulls about the same at the upper rpm. Which kinda tells me I was too advanced.

As for the lockup trans, I've thought about it, and I know it would make a difference. But I'd like to try and see how far I can push the non lockup.
 
Sutter1stgen said:
But I'd like to try and see how far I can push the non lockup.
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I know Tom Collins made 587 on a non-lockup with a Spec-Rite converter, but that was with W/M AND nitrous. I still think you should spray it, and see if you have the fuel for 450rwhp. You should, I made 448 with 6x16s and spray on my 727.
 
JQmile said:
I know Tom Collins made 587 on a non-lockup with a Spec-Rite converter, but that was with W/M AND nitrous. I still think you should spray it, and see if you have the fuel for 450rwhp. You should, I made 448 with 6x16s and spray on my 727.
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Spray!!!! Your crazy!! :poke:
I kinda have a game plan now. And I still have my water meth kit, I may reinstall it. I know after a point a non lockup starts to really give up hp to a clutch and lockup converter. But Tom's truck is one of the reasons I've gone the build route I have.
On a serious note, how much spray could I even safely run with just studs? Your the expert on this one. And don't take this last question as a kinda, sorta, maybe ether. Lol
 
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