Easy passenger side battery relocation...pics inside.

cumminsX

Can't make up my mind
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
447
I moved the passenger side battery back under the bed on the inside of the frame rail today and if you have a stack there is plenty of room. I used the factory battery tray and all I had to do is drill a couple 17/64th holes and use the bolts that hold the factory tray to fasten it to the frame. It turned out pretty clean I think. I had 14' of heavy duty battery cable made at the local NAPA auto parts. Total cost was $90, Now I have a little more room up there.

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what if you dont have a stack? othertwise its pretty neat
 
OK got to ask the obvious why move it?? And where did you get the battery holder?
 
I moved it because I needed a bigger air filter for my twins, the one that came with the kit was not big enough to support an s480, and the way the piping was there was not much room to go bigger. So I am building a new intake tube and it will be much simpler if the battery is not there.
 
I've ran one battery for the past year and haven't had any problem. Thought about relocating my second one but I just don't see a need for it.
 
Looks like a mighty small ground cable on that batt in the second pic, I hope you have a large ground cable to the chassis too... Current flows from negative to positive and the cable should be at least the same size as the positive cable! Also, be careful of heat... it will kill a battery quickly.
 
Chris is correct. Also with the length of cable involved to relocate the battery one must consider the power loss. If the battery on the frame were disconnected I seriously doubt there would be a noticeable difference in crank time. At one time I had a battery located in the truck bed, cable large enough to transfer the proper crank power cost me $150...that was 5 years ago, copper didn't get cheaper since then. Now I'm down to one under the hood...way less headaches.
 
Yup, I was/am a stereo installer and electrical engineer... I just happen to make a living now as an editor and photographer... The cable size definately needs to be increased as the length increases to avoid voltage loss... Also with longer cables on one battery it will not charge equally with the other and they will then fight each other causing both to have a shorter battery life...
 
Battery relocation is a good idea...relocate both so there are less issues.
 
The negative cable in the second pic is just a small lead that goes to the bed, the cable is the stock ground cable that was on it under the hood so the main is grounded to the chassis. The possitive lead that I used was bigger than the stock one.
 
I been thinking about running a single battery. But will hit hold up with the stereo turned up? Its a competition stereo, so I don't know if I can run a single battery. It drains the battery every time it hits hard.
 
The negative cable in the second pic is just a small lead that goes to the bed, the cable is the stock ground cable that was on it under the hood so the main is grounded to the chassis. The possitive lead that I used was bigger than the stock one.

Good, sounds like you might be ok then...

I been thinking about running a single battery. But will hit hold up with the stereo turned up? Its a competition stereo, so I don't know if I can run a single battery. It drains the battery every time it hits hard.

If you are having problems supplying enough current with 2 batteries, you won't be able to remove one and be ok... Sorry. If you have a serious sound system you should stick with two batteries and possibly improve the batteries and alternator over stock...
 
Moving or getting rid of the battery on the turbo side is a good idea. batteries don't like heat and if that one goes bad it will start to take the other one with it. I also took the passenger side battery out but wanted more capacity than just one original battery so I used one of these. Odyssey PC1750T Much heavier than the original (more plates) and good construction, ordered it from Summit.
 
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