Engine balancing

B

bd blk 12v

Fixen broken bulldogs
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
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241
Hello guys. I have a question on engine balancing when to do it? I have a 264k worn 5&6 12v I'm planning on building for a single cab short bed. I want around 550hp street able. I have been quoted $300 to balance the rotating assy. What are some benefits to balancing? Is it worth the 300$ or best to put the money elsewhere? Thanks
 
I would say it's definitely worth it. It should run smoother and last longer.
 
Thats what I wanted to hear. I appreciate it. I have been planning on balancing it. Will stock main and rod bolts suffice?
 
bd blk 12v said:
Thats what I wanted to hear. I appreciate it. I have been planning on balancing it. Will stock main and rod bolts suffice?
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Of course it is. That's why you asked the question. I'll counter everybody else and say it is not needed at those power levels. However the big question is what the heck are you using it for? For a street 500-550 hp application I would much rather put $300 towards a cam and supporting hardware than balancing. But that is me I'm crazy like that.
 
My brother built a Cr and didn't get it balanced and has regreted it. He has been telling me its the best thing to do and my first 12v I built I didn't balance it. I'm wanting a good engine that will last and it will be driven some maybe 5000miles a year. My job will be the limiting factor of driving. I have a 2013 triumph thruxton 1300 miles on it sitting in the garage. Thanks
 
Believe it or not these motors are fairly well balanced to begin with. Even at 500 ponies its a toss up.

I agree with Shainer money best spent elsewhere. As for your brothers CR, as to what are you referring as to why he regretted it?
 
I would say do it. You want 500 hp now, then you'll want 800 or more. Might as well do it while you have it apart.


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I agree. do it while you have it apart. Balancing helps on any engine I have rebuilt. Most noticable was a 300 I6 Ford. I had owned several in the years, but the rebuilt/balanced one was noticably smooth as silk. Edelbrock 4bbl carb, dual exhaust, cam, & a performance valve job in an F150 that could keep up with 5.0 Mustangs back in the day.

Ed
 
His regret is that what he has read that it runs smoother and revs up quicker. I guess with mine ready to build he's been telling me to do it its cheap and worth the money while its apart. Thanks guys
 
The biggest thing is weight matching pistons and rods. Cranks are awfully close from the factory. Though if you are doing the crank, do the damper, flexplate/flwheel and torque converter/pressure plate at the same time.
 
CorneliusRox said:
Tuning issues he blames on his non-balanced bottom end...
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BgBlDodge said:
Please elaborate cause I'm not following. Maybe we can help solve his problem.
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Sorry, I was being an ass!
I've just seen some EFI live guys have 'pulsy' trucks that go away when they switch to someone else's tunes. A lot think it's hardware.

I think balancing your assembly is great if you've got everything torn down. If not, tossing a Fluidampr on and inline six goes a long ways.

I agree that money can be better spent elsewhere (if you don't have it torn down already).
 
id go ahead and balance it..why you got it apart you might as well, if anything the 300 bucks will make you sleep better at night knowing that your motors rotating assembly is balanced or at least it would me....
 
I appreciate the help. I have an idea so please hear me out. Would I be wise or not that when I get the block machined to weigh all the parts and make a decision there? I'm assuming that if I measure the rods pistons rings pins clip ect that if I find them out on weight it would be wise to have it done correct? I work on natural gas engines and compressors. The compressors are pretty well balanced when assembled. The spec we use is within about 3lbs it will be ok. They spin from 700-1400rpm. What would be too far out of spec on this engine a few grams? I know all about the wanting more power. I'd love a 750hp or so engine but I don't have the funds to do it. I know it would have to be compounds and lots of fuel. My 94 5speed in my sig got me hooked. I'd guess it's about 600hp and it's street able. I have wanted a single cab shortbed and been a slow process building this one. Thanks
 
Just measuring the weight is not all that is involved. On the rods, they hang it from both ends & match both ends. $300 is a good price & if I had mine apart, I would have it done in a heartbeat.

Ed
 
You can do it yourself. You can make a jig to hang the parts from end to end and weigh them. From what I'm told, the cranks are very well balanced. I did mine, I did the pistons and the rods. Took about two hours not counting making the jig. There's a couple of youtube videos with home made jigs on balancing engines that I used to guide me.

Engine is glass smooth. So it is worth it.
 
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