Engine stand/cart.

jimbo486

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Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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I'll be pulling the Cummins out of my Dodge in the coming weeks and I'm wanting to build a cart that will capture both sides of the where the motor mounts bolt to. What I'm trying to determine is specs for some steel to fabricate the cart out of. I'm thinking of square tubing with at least a 3/16" wall. With that in mind, what size tubing would work well to support a fully dressed Cummins?

Has anybody built something similar that could give me any ideas or things to be aware of? Pictures are always good for reference. I have a Harbor Freight welder which does well for me. Just for good measure, I'll probably make multiple passes on each joint.
 
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Looks like maybe 1"x4" tubing? That would work. After bolting to the block and the width is set, I could span another piece of steel across both ends of the legs. Then bolt or weld some caster to the bottom and be set.

Thanks, J.P.!
 
Just out of curiousity, what's the reasoning behind wanting a stand that holds both sides?
 
With the stand pictured above you can rotate the motor 360* and a fully assembled Cummins is no lite weight.
 
I just never had a problem with my traditional stand, except of course when I misplaced the handle so I was using short bar stock and nearly broke my wrist.

But I guess I would feel safer with the extra support.
 
Got this in a trade with a local member. Works well even with the engine front heavy from the timing crap. There are 2 large bearings supporting the rotating mechanism.
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Can you post pictures of the gear drive? When you rotate the motor what keeps the motor in a certain position a pin?
 

That looks dangerous if you ever wanted to spin it upside down if the head is on. Or impossible going right side up with the head on. Unless you're using a crane of some sort to control the rotation.
 
That looks dangerous if you ever wanted to spin it upside down if the head is on. Or impossible going right side up with the head on. Unless you're using a crane of some sort to control the rotation.

That's what I was thinking. I've had them get away from me on a normal stand attached dead center of the block. I bought a couple 2000 pound stand from jegs and they work to mount them after removing the backing plate. That thing would hurt someone !!
 
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I'll get some more pics. The plate is welded so attaching to the engine is tricky but manageable by myself. The method to lock it in place is a vice grip or 2 on the chain and gear. Its not really strong enough for torqing head bolts but good for just about everything else. Yes its difficult to rotate by hand. Definitely a 2 man or a 1 man + hoist job. Ol Blue traded this to me and he has more I think. haha
 
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That looks dangerous if you ever wanted to spin it upside down if the head is on. Or impossible going right side up with the head on. Unless you're using a crane of some sort to control the rotation.

That's what I was thinking. I've had them get away from me on a normal stand attached dead center of the block. I bought a couple 2000 pound stand from jegs and they work to mount them after removing the backing plate. That thing would hurt someone !!

It works fine. It isn't dangerous. There is a pin that holds it place at every 90 degree interval.
 
It works fine. It isn't dangerous. There is a pin that holds it place at every 90 degree interval.

How do you roll the engine over in a controlled fashion? With out your nuts hitting the floor!
 
What size and wall thickness is that? It looks to be about 1.5"x4", 0.125" wall tubing?

I found some scrap pieces of that and cut them to 48" and 36" lengths. As well as some 2"x2", 0.250" wall tubing.

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The stand is at my friend's shop, but i think it's 2x4 and it's either 1/8" or 3/16".
 
Thanks. I think these pieces should be sufficient to hold the full dressed engine.
 
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