Farmboys Fabrication ladder bars

Jesse, how does it work if you add more lift to your truck? Like say, going from stock to a 4 inch lift. Are there different bars for different heights? Hope that makes sense.
 
You would just adjust the heims out some. It's that simple. When you do your original install just tighten them in almost all the way... that way you have a full range of adjustment the higher you go.


We built the 7'7" bars when my truck had an 8" lift. That way from the side they sat at the same angle as the drive shaft and blended in. When I added to the lift we lifted the rear an additional 3" with rear hangers and the front 4.5" more with hangers. When Jesse and I went to reinstall the bars they only needed to be adjusted a turn or two on the heims and we were back in business.

Scott
 
Do they have to be a certain lenght in order for them to be left on the truck all the time an still have suspension articulation? I mostly drive to work and around the farm through ditches and stuff, but I wan some bars for sled pullin. Thanks

Kyle
 
They do need to be a specific length for each model(CC, shrt bed, lngbed)...and lift height....just get ahold of Jesse, and he'll tell ya which ones you need to order.


Here's mine "flexing"....it has great articulation...the only reason I "hung a tire"...was because I didn't disconnect my sway bars.

StumpnMAY089.jpg


StumpnMAY081.jpg


StumpnMAY084.jpg
 
Do they have to be a certain lenght in order for them to be left on the truck all the time an still have suspension articulation? I mostly drive to work and around the farm through ditches and stuff, but I wan some bars for sled pullin. Thanks

Kyle


On a Crew cab short bed, or ext. cab long bed (most popular wheelbase), from full droop of the rear suspension to full compression, with 7'1" long bars, is only 1" difference of where the bars line up to the frame. This equates into no loss of wheel travel when you factor the elasticity of the leaf springs.

In addition to that, the stage 3s will take the work off the leaf springs and then into the gyro joint in compression.



As far as adjustment, the instructions pretty much tell you what scott said:

"At this point, proceed to orient the flex joint and gyro joint in a position based on the possible future suspension setups of the vehicle as follows:
(The joints in conjunction can account for roughly 6" of suspension change, whether it be lifted or lowered. If they are set up threaded all of the way out, you can later lower the truck 6" and still run the bars as mounted to the frame and axle; threaded all of the way in, it is possible to take the truck up another 6" in the future. If the future of the truck is unknown, and could be lowered or raised, we recommend setting them up halfway threaded into the bars, in the middle of its range of adjustment.) ALWAYS leave at least 1-1/4" of thread engagement inside of the traction bars.


All bars are right and left hand threaded...for quick adjustment by simply rotating the bars by hand while still mounted on the vehicle
 
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Jess, does this do anything for traction on a non lifted truck, or is it realy just for a lifted truck? Would traction bars be better?
 
They work on stock trucks as well......they work exceptionally well for Drag racing...really help keep the rear planted. Same basic principal as traction bars on old muscle cars.
 
I'm putting them on my truck Tim. They will help stop the axle wrap as well as transfer the load to help with traction.
 
Here's a pic from the first night I installed my SCT without traction bars. I had 5" rear Deaver springs, stock F350 blocks & 38" tires when this happened.

I had tons of axle wrap and could get the driveshaft to hit the mounting flange.
cottsdamage.jpg


Now with Jesse's bars I don't have the first bit of wrap! Jesse's bars will work for lowered, stock & lifted trucks.
 
i have some stage ones....the SECOND set he built i think..the FIRST set of 80 pipe...hemi's on both sides

----i have the oldest next to scott----

i bent it....sway bar bent it i think..mabey when i had 4k in bed..lol..has been removed...

good bars...nice dude.....didn't like the china joints they had originally (high mis-align hemi) so i got his newer version of hemi joints (2 stage?)..seems like they are beefier...although i DO NOT have the cool GYRO joint...

road noise....yeah...as expected...but they do add A LOT of bite to the tires....A LOT...

1 more thumbs up for his work and products....and his service..he spent A LOT of time on the phone with me FOR FREE....helping me straighten out my truck...


JESSE....CAN I HAVE A STICKER PLEASE??..LOL
 
The sway bar does need to be removed for 4.5" lift and lower in the rear.

If they are indeed bent...call me. They will never bend under even the most extreme acceleration loads...the side loads are a different story; and yes, you have some of the earliest stages. Wildcat has the first, scott and yours went out the same day i beleive.

And yes, you can have a sticker. lol

- Jesse

i have some stage ones....the SECOND set he built i think..the FIRST set of 80 pipe...hemi's on both sides

----i have the oldest next to scott----

i bent it....sway bar bent it i think..mabey when i had 4k in bed..lol..has been removed...

good bars...nice dude.....didn't like the china joints they had originally (high mis-align hemi) so i got his newer version of hemi joints (2 stage?)..seems like they are beefier...although i DO NOT have the cool GYRO joint...

road noise....yeah...as expected...but they do add A LOT of bite to the tires....A LOT...

1 more thumbs up for his work and products....and his service..he spent A LOT of time on the phone with me FOR FREE....helping me straighten out my truck...


JESSE....CAN I HAVE A STICKER PLEASE??..LOL
 
i bent it..just accept it.lol..i also stripped out the grade 5 hardware with hand tools remember?......i am just a hoss...i break things...lol...

the sway bar with 3" block and 5k in the bed came down and whacked it dead center and bent it around 1"....battle scars...rough winter plowing...i forgot to mention...THESE PLOWED SNOW ALL WINTER GREAT!!! HELP UP TO LOTS OF CRAZY LOADING AND TORQUING..

.i want you to build me a new set when your all settled in and you have you design all worked out and i will send you these to mount in your office...
 
I'll give you guys this at least you have a decent price. These guys asking 900 dollars for traction bars is outrageous.
 
I want to get a set of traction bars for my truck. Its a 05 f350 extended cab short bed. Im running 35's with 6 inches of lift in the front and 4 in the rear. Ive never seen a cab configuration like mine with tractions bars. Can a custom set be made?
 
Jesse's made them for your setup before. Dissociative's truck is also an extended cab short box, but without as much lift.

Jesse's shop number is 239-337-5438... I think he's open from 8-6 EST during the week.
 
i bent it..just accept it.lol..i also stripped out the grade 5 hardware with hand tools remember?......i am just a hoss...i break things...lol...

Hoss LOL No more grade 5 used anywhere...grade 8 everything, even the nuts.


the sway bar with 3" block and 5k in the bed came down and whacked it dead center and bent it around 1"

yeah, that sway bar needs to be gone...these bars will handle just about anything these trucks can throw at it in compression forces (throttle), but I always warn that outside forces (rocks, ledges, sway bars, etc) can bend them. If you have contact with your sway bar (4.5" of rear lift or less), it should be removed. If you plan to offroad the nasty stuff (rocks) I need to be aware of this to make the bars with some different tubing.

....battle scars...rough winter plowing...i forgot to mention...THESE PLOWED SNOW ALL WINTER GREAT!!! HELP UP TO LOTS OF CRAZY LOADING AND TORQUING..

Good to hear.

i want you to build me a new set when your all settled in and you have you design all worked out and i will send you these to mount in your office...

We have been settled and going strong for a while now...we are just not making the Stage 3's. I have actually been pumping out quite a few lately. The stage 2s would be great for you though, considering the harsh conditions you drive in.


I want to get a set of traction bars for my truck. Its a 05 f350 extended cab short bed. Im running 35's with 6 inches of lift in the front and 4 in the rear. Ive never seen a cab configuration like mine with tractions bars. Can a custom set be made?

Part #FFTrac1-66F
Part #FFTrac2-66F

Stage 1 and Stage 2 respectively. They can ship out on Thursday.

I'll give you guys this at least you have a decent price. These guys asking 900 dollars for traction bars is outrageous.

I wont comment on other companies pricing, but i will say that a lot more goes into these bars than people seem to realize. In the past we have had customers say they can do it for "X" price, yet not understand the differences in the materials and joints they are using, compared to our bars, as well as other manufacturers bars. This, in addition to the insane price jump of steel in the past few months; it has pretty much forced everyone to have a price increase (myself included). We try to keep a pricing niche in between the cheap ProComp type bars, and the expensive Rize/FourReal bars...while addressing the flaws in each, and making ourselves competitive with even the most expensive.

Our downfall - you have to weld tabs to the tube...which I find most people in the diesel world would prefer to do this rather than spend another $400-600 to put faith in a poorly designed bracket system.



Thank you Chad and Scott. We are open

Mon-Thurs: 8-6
Fri: 8-5
Sat: 9-4

Email:

Questions - admin@farmboyfabrications.com
Orders (please include adequate description of the vehicle) - ash@farmboyfabrications.com

Phone: (239) 337-LIFT 5438


- Jesse
 
If you plan to offroad the nasty stuff (rocks) I need to be aware of this to make the bars with some different tubing.

You wouldn't be refering to me ,..would you?.... LOL
 
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