First gen Brake Improvements?

RacinDuallie

RacinDuallie

Black Sheep Racing
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
Messages
17,369
stock disc/caliper set up front- duallie drums rear.

Is the GM style wheel cylinders worth the swap?

Secondy my damned master cylinder keeps seeping out the top cover and is quite annoying- any tips to stop this issue?
 
I have the rear disc conversion from tsmmfg.com. Probably the best money ever spent on my 1st gen. This thing stops NOW.
 
Could a hydro boost/cylinder set up be adapted?? I tore down a couple of 2nd gens and am positive I have a couple of those setups stored in some crates......
 
RacinDuallie said:
Could a hydro boost/cylinder set up be adapted?? I tore down a couple of 2nd gens and am positive I have a couple of those setups stored in some crates......
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Yes. I'm pretty sure Ron Allen had a hydroboost setup on his 1st gen. Also if you aren't banned from DTR there is some pretty good info on it over there.
 
Yes wheel cylinder make a difference along with the 3" shoes.

You can make a hydrobooster set-up work, I think the Chevy one was what everyone decided was the best fit.

Lots of guys claim getting rid of the dump valve makes a difference. I myself still have it on all my trucks and I can still stop my truck.

Keeping the shoes adjusted makes the difference, in my personal opinion.
 
If you keep the rear brakes adjusted they work quite well. It's just that I'm not interested in crawling under my pickup every 2 weeks or so.
 
I had new stock 3/4 ton cylinders with new drums and 3" one ton shoes. I bypassed the RWAL which led to new lines and tearing apart the rear brakes. I replaced everything brakes wise with new stock except what I listed. It braked harder than the 255/85 tires could hold.

I can't stress it enough, good and properly setup suspension it key to stopping well.



Sent via USPS 2 weeks ago
 
fatty said:
If you keep the rear brakes adjusted they work quite well. It's just that I'm not interested in crawling under my pickup every 2 weeks or so.
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I agree with you. My pile sits on Jack stands 99% of its life. When I do decide to pull it out of the barn I give it the once over, so not a big deal for me.

If the whole factory system is working correctly, then going in reverse and hitting the brakes is "suposed" to adjust the rear brakes. I have my doubts about that though....
 
If you go reverse and hit the skids hard.... it adjusts your rear brakes.

Hydroboost is the answer... discs are awesome as well. But, I have all stock stuff and the best stopping mod to date is a Dana 80. Holy crap, I can stop like absolutely RIGHT NOW, even at 6900# on 37s.
 
I used a hydro boost setup off of about a 90' model Chevy. Lines screw into box and pump. Booster bracket is the same bolt pattern on firewall but big hole is off center. I had a bracket laser cut to center booster then all you have to do is modify push rod. Chevy was 9/16 and dodge 1/2 hole size. I cut and welded two together. Probably my favorite thing I've done to my truck and its got a ppump nv4500 and compounds.
 
Personally I don't like hydro boost... I've had good luck with the plastic res 2nd gen booster and master cylinder from a 94-95 dodge
 
Revemup15 said:
Personally I don't like hydro boost... I've had good luck with the plastic res 2nd gen booster and master cylinder from a 94-95 dodge
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That's what I have on mine. Works great compared to the crappy stock booster and MC.
 
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